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adrian_wilson9

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Posts posted by adrian_wilson9

  1. <p>Jonathan,<br>

    Is this how you conduct yourself as a Photographer, bit of a disgrace when your sole capability is to cause trouble by silly ill informed comments, Photo.net is not for exchanges of this nature and you should know better. Gus is the person who was requesting help / comment and I have given my advice relating to that subject and in the process had to tolerate your stupidity and consistent ill informed comments. If you cannot accept what others say with respect you should get off Photo.net.</p>

    <p>Adrian.<br>

    Return with your shield or on it. Old Zulu War Cry.</p>

  2. <h1>jonathan,</h1>

    <p>I can only regard your last posting with the contempt that it deserves, really is time you learned that others can at times make a genuine contribution to this site, making silly off handed remarks does nothing to help anyone.<br /> Adrian.<br /> Return with your shield or on it. Old Zulu War Cry.</p>

  3. <p>Johnathan,<br>

    You are the one creating a Psuedo HDR by the method you suggested, a real HDR can be created by using the software I recommended and making the most of your bracketed shots, please get this right, I'm a film fanatic myself and to loose the value of HDR film shots is verging on the criminal, but you would not know would you as you have never tried, all you are doing is expressing an opinion, and not a very well informed one at that.<br>

    Adrian.</p>

    <p>Return with your shield or on it > Old Zulu War Cry.</p>

  4. <p>Hi Gus,<br>

    Ever thought of producing some HDR's, Mediachance produce one or the best programmes going for film work and it's not too expensive ( Free trial ) but has a wealth of facilities incorporated. You will of course need to scan your Negs' or transparencies ( Keep the same settings for each scan ). I am usually able to produce up to 8 differing images from 1 set, it really is fabulous work, and addictive. Please consider trying it.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>Adrian.</p>

    <p>Return with your Shield or on it > Old Zulu War Cry.</p>

  5. <p>Hi Steve,<br>

    Should read " Remote Release III " sadly that release will not work on your III camera. Just checked in the spare room and apparently I sold my last release a few months ago. Hope this helps, but would have helped more if I had a release to sell.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>Adrian.</p>

    <p>Was told off for my signature last time so > Return with your sheild or on it > Old Zulu war cry.</p>

  6. <p>Hi,<br>

    I've been following this thread since the start, I used to have an Imacon flextite but you don't want to hear about that, I was interested in the comments made re Bruce Fraser, I believe you can find this book on eBay just enter his name, the results of the search are limited so you should have no problem weeding out the relevant copy.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>Adrian.<br>

    <b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net guidelines.</b></p>

  7. <p>Hi Leo,<br>

    Pleased that has worked out, yes you actually have to try these things out to realise the difference they can make. I had a stroke of luck with the customs last week as well, nice when that happens.<br>

    Good Luck,</p>

    <p>Adrian.</p>

  8. <p>Hi Jonathan,<br>

    You have found the correct meter, the conversion is very easy, details can be found on http://www.999-wed.com this conversion uses a filter planted on the outside, if you have some IR gel then you could replace the tiny hot mirror with a piece of that and put the whole thing back together as is, a screwdriver and a Stanley knife are all the tools you will need.<br>

    If you get stuck please let me know.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian,<br>

    adrian@majoroak.org.uk</p>

  9. <p>Hi Jonathan,<br>

    Re focusing, just drop back a tad from what you would normally focus, if at infinity, then just move the focusing back a tiny amount. The higher the rating for your filter will mean you require a longer exposure, 720nm is reasonable, if you hike it up to 950nm your exposure time can be double or treble that of the 720nm.<br>

    There is a lot of crap banded about re IR Photography, it's no different to ordinary Photography, except that you are moving further up the spectrum, if you can bear that in mind when shooting you will be half way there.<br>

    I would suggest you obtain a LX1010B light meter and convert it to IR, then note the reading on the meter and log your exposure time and aperture settings, It would take a whole roll of film to calibrate things but you would be off to a flying start with the rest, these meters when converted are remarkably sensitive to IR, so you will know exactly where you are.</p>

    <p>How the 110ND filter would affect things would be best determined by holding the filter in front of a converted Lux Meter.</p>

    <p>If you do use a converted Lux meter you can forget about all that rubbish banded about re BRACKETING, it's total nonsense, you are just running around in the dark wasting very expensive film with that exercise.<br>

    Good Luck.<br>

    Adrian.</p>

    <p>www.MajorOak.org.uk</p>

  10. <p>Hi Leo,<br>

    These plates come in 3 different heights, so that looks why you are getting the set. Some cameras require more clearance on the 400 head than others. Good luck with the Custome bill.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>Adrian.</p>

  11. <p>Hi Leo,<br>

    As the two previous posting illustrate the 410 is pretty close to it's limits, and if you ever look at a 100 / 220 Zoom then the loading will be way over the top, and remember you need full control of you camera, and you certainly do not want to feel as though it's balanced on a knife edge. It's one thing to write in and say the you have been using a piece of XYZ kit, and you have been happy with it, I use a tiny FOTOMATE head for some applications and am extremly happy with it's performance, but I would only recommend it for the applications I use it for. The Manfrotto 400 geared head is built for the job, you just have to decide if you are prepared to chance it, or go for the no risk option of the 400. It's an expensive job an I really wish that there were real alternatives but in situations like this it's Hobson's choice.</p>

    <p>Cheers,</p>

    <p>Adrian.</p>

  12. <p>Hi Leo,<br>

    I use a Manfrotto for my two Fuji GX680III's, would really not consider anything else. I have a 410 as well but would not like to risk it, it might work but it would be overloaded and you would loose that incredible capacity for accuracy in framing shots that the 400 is famous for, yes the 400 is heavy, and together with my 161b tripod it's a ton weight, I'm organizing Sherpas for the next trip.</p>

    <p>Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

    <p><b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net guidelines.</b></p>

  13. <p>Hi Mathew,<br>

    Are the filters a push fit or do you have a threaded section for filter attachment ?<br>

    With regard to the filters themselves it has been said that you could use Kodak colour reversal film ( E6 ) that has not been exposed, just develop it and the end product is similar to an IR filter.<br>

    IR gel filters exist, probably eBay, but it may take some time to find. There is also a chap on eBay that sells vintage gear and specialises in lens hoods and filters.<br>

    If you get stuck for a gel filter drop me a line, I may have some left over from one of my projects.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.<br>

    <b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net guidelines.</b></p>

  14. <p>Just a follow up response to this,<br>

    I have purchased an LCW ND filter ( £100.00 = $160.00 ) and am taking it up to Yorkshire for the Clubs annual holiday, I wanted to try some grads combined with this filter, it's a rotating mount and anyone that's been around filters for a while will know that any weight placed on a rotating mount is soon going to be dismounted very quickly, with your filter in two pieces or more. I thought of placing a Cokin X-pro 82mm adapter ring on the front with Blu Tac to secure the grad would be the ideal answer as I could also find myself working with an Ultra Wide angle lens as well ( Yes I am aware of the problems of UWA lenses with Faders ). Just for reference purposes my Hitech 100mm holder is a three slot and there is no way I'm going to canabalise that. The 82mm adapter ring was already to hand, and once this work is complete it may possibly not be repeated for another year, the Blu Tac wins the day and cost me a total of £1.19p on eBay, so please think first before you knock anything, just because it's not straight out of a fancy camera shop doesn't mean it's not worth knowing about.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

  15. <p>Hi Gareth,<br>

    OK if you can get away with it, the main problem you will encounter is colour cast, I've just invested in an LCW for the Club, it's not perfect but it's good, in part it depends on your ability to work round a lot of the problems, one of which is that these things do not like wide angle lenses, or perhaps I should say Ultra Wide angle lenses.</p>

    <p>Good Luck,</p>

    <p>Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.<br>

    <b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net guidelines.</b> </p>

  16. <p>Hi Ken,<br>

    I have Lightroom 3 and sad to say I spent the first two weeks cursing it uphill and down dale. It was not until found out how to import images that I found the real value of L3, it has one of the best Noise reduction tools to be found anywhere, but try to follow the so called Organiser system and I would throw it in the dustbin sooner than grapple with it.<br>

    You have to import images you simply cannot open one, it's designed for batch work and it beats me why ? Then on to the top right to Develop and select your images that you have imported.<br>

    As far as I can see you would still use the Import with a scanner, selecting the scanner from the Computer list i.e. Disk C: Disk D: Drive E Scanner etc.<br>

    Hope this helps, it's difficult to explain. Please don't forget to update your copy as there are bugs and it will crash.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

  17. <p>Hi,<br /> You mentioned you have taken the battery out and put it back, have you actually checked the battery or even better replaced it with a fresh one, could be the cause of your problem.</p>

    <p>Cheers,<br /> Adrian.<br /><b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net guidelines.</b></p>

  18. <p>Hi Roman,<br>

    Re the Blu Tac, I read about it in Lee Frosts book " Panoramic Photography " However as a Professional myself I would be offended if someone knocked or dismissed a practical idea I had just because it was not purchased in a Camera Store or had a well respected name and a reputation for being expensive. A lot of Photographers spend most of their lives like that, and if it's not in the shop it's not worth knowing about. I tend to spend most of my time fitting square pegs into round holes and succeeding. So yes if I give someone the benefit of my experience and it is regarded as valuable advice and someone comes along and dismisses it then I would take offense, not a lot, but I would take offense.<br>

    Re The Hitech holders with Lee filters I was reffering to the Hitech 100 system, as I assumed that is what we were talking about with your 35mm lens as an 85mm system would present problems.<br>

    Re Teamwork Digital, I have done business with Teamwork on several occasions and always found them to be polite and businesslike and I'm surprised by the comments made about them.<br>

    Apart from eBay perhaps you might try www.ffordes.com they have a fair stock of filters etc, but you need to keep looking on a regular basis.<br>

    Trust somewhere along the line this has been helpful.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

  19. <p>David,<br>

    Please lets get this right, first of all there is no problem whatsoever with using Lee filters in a Hitech holder, the thickness of Lee filters is irrelevant, I have a pouch full of Lee filters and a couple of Hitech holders so I'm speaking from PERSONAL EXPERIENCE.<br>

    You have sought to dismiss the Blu Tac approach twice in your submission, which is wrong, how can you judge Roman's budget to advise him that it is not worth bothering with and that you certainly would not go down that route.<br>

    How would Roman feel if he missed an award winning picture because he felt he could not afford the necessary kit when he could no doubt afford a cheap adapter ring and a piece of Blu Tac out of the office drawer, he may well then win the day with his existing equipment. </p>

    <p>Adrian Wilson.</p>

  20. <p>I think Mr Lee Frost may be offended by the Blu Tac remarks David made, ignore that, it's your pocket that counts and if a Professional Photographer advises a certain work round you are gaining the benefit of years of experience, and if it saves money for other items of equipment then so much the better, nothing is perfect in this world and that includes ND Grads whichever way up you like them. ( Gets more and more crazy every day ). If you can achieve the desired effect on your image whatever filter or technique you elect to employ then you have won the day.<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

  21. <p>Hi Roman,<br>

    The link to Formatt filters > <br>

    http://www.formatt.co.uk/stills-filters/filters/stills-filters.aspx<br>

    Link to Teamwork Digital Ltd > <br>

    http://teamworkphoto.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1047_78&zenid=r8ovnt4f75q5shpn5uugcgjre3<br>

    Hitech will supply a 95mm adapter ring but you may be down to a single slot and you may wish to remove the outer 105mm ring on the holder. Cokin X-pro will do the job, and the colour cast is not to bad, but expensive. Final solution is to consider a screw in Grad if possible at 95mm I know for certain that they are available up to 77mm.<br>

    Colour cast is the plague of ND's, I have just invested in a LCW Fader, it's not arrived as yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's going to work, well it was either that or a set of Tiffen ND's.</p>

    <p>The bells are ringing ! just remembered a dodge I read about from a chap Lee Frost, he recommended getting a 95mm adapter ring and some blu' tac' and after fitting the ring to the lens just dobbing the filter onto the adapter ring with Blu' Tac' he claimed you could get away with anything using that method, worth a try and could save yourself a few bob in the process. I believe there are some cheap adapter rings on ebay for just over a tenner.<br>

    Good Luck,<br>

    Cheers,<br>

    Adrian.</p>

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