frode_inge_helland

<p>Than you for the answers.<br>

I wrote an answer, but i seems to have evaporated completely.<br /><br /><br>

I try once more.<br>

On my 12-40 there is a manual/auto ring for choosing focusing mode. I ca swap swiftly between the two modes witout taking the viewer away from my eye.<br>

From my point of view a ring for choosing between autoexposure and a certain aperture without having to take the camera away from the eye, in my opinion, would be very useful.<br>

I do not see that fiddling with menues is a great progress.</p>

<p>I have used FT-lenses, FT teleconverter and MFT-adapter on my E-M1.<br />It worked just fine.<br>

But is it possible to use a MFT teleconverter and a MFT adapter on the camera so<br />that the MFT converter will work with both FT and MFT lenses?</p>

<p>And I have a wish to Olympus:<br />Please get the aperture adjustment back to the lenses and a separate shutter dial on the camera.<br>

The present solution isn't good enough.</p>

<p>Nathaniel,<br>

I only shoot in .jpg + .orf with original lenses, like the 12-40, 12-50, 50-200, 7-14 etc.<br>

But I think fundamental issues as adjusting WB should be simple and starightforeward. I love the MF ring on 12-40 and wish for the aperture adjustment be on the future lenses also - time setting on camera, not only in the menus.</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you very much Phil.<br />Something is rotten in the kingdom of Denmark:<br />In the SCP the WB is greyed out whatever I do. The only way is through the Live Panel, which is too limited.<br />And when I try to invoke the SCP i get stuck in the Flash menu - which do not work.<br>

This should be very simple. But i isn't. <br />I wonder why.</p>

<p>Thank you so much JW and Gerry.<br />Now I have something to study in the Christmas.<br />Merry Christmas to both of you here from Norway, this distant corner of the world.<br />Frode</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you JW,<br />I have tried all the settings on that dial, but with no success.<br />I am wandering if it might be a bug.</p>

<p>It seems impossible to set white balance in E-M1. It is not difficult to find it in the menu. But it is greyed out and completely inaccessible. I have tried to change other menu settings to get access, but no. The control panel, invoked by pressing OK, is seemingly stuck to the external flash settings.<br>

Which leads to the next problem: <br />My FL-35 will not operate on E-M1, but it works perfectly on my E-P3.<br />I must have pressed some wrong button - but which - and where?</p>

<p>Thank you very much. <br />Converting all recordings is a solution, but not an optmal solution. I use a few converters, but it takes unnecesseary time.<br>

I will try tu dig into the menus and find what I did not find earlier.</p>

<p>I certainly did not by E-M1 to shoot videos. <br />But I find myself more and more shooting videos. Regretably the output seems to be in Quick Time format. This is annoying as my post processing programs do not accept this format. My E-P3 produces AVCHD output which is widely accepted in my preferred post processing programs.<br />Is there a way to make E-M1 produce the same AVCHD video output as in E-P3?</p>

<p>Racoons does not exist here. But I have considered buying long haired musk ox yarn and get knitted a "dead cat". Bur so far the one I got seems ok so far, even in moderate wind gusts.<br />Yesterday I went to record bird songs. But they were hard to spot, so identification may be tricky.<br />The Panasonic mic worked quite fine and I got several crisp and clear bird recordings from about 40 - 150 feet away, in a valley about ten miles north of Ålesund, where I live.</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you Gerry,<br>

the main purpose is to record bird sounds. <br />So - if the microphone is primarily unidirectional, I am quite happy. I intended to buy a Røde, but the "dead cat" was nearly as expensive. The Panasonic was said to be better om long distance. So I went for it. <br />I have microphones for E-M1, both a battery powered shotgun and the SEMA1 and ME51S, but none suited for bird recordings.<br />Thank you very much for so being helpful.<br /><br />Frode Inge Helland.<br>

Ålesund, Norway.</p>

<h1> </h1>

<p>I bought this shotgun to use on my E-M1 and LS-14.<br />The takeup pattern can be adjuste from omnidirectional to unidirectional. But it turned out tha it could only be operated throught the GH3 menus. I can't find this options in the E-1 menus.<br>

So, has anybody came across a software that permits me to adjust the microphone without thr GH3?<br>

Any tricks up the sleeve?</p>

<p>Everybody says it's simple and straightforeward to connect the camera and the smart phone.<br />I have had no success. <br />It may have something to do with my Samsung S-5830 Galaxy Ace, but I may also have overseen an important detail in the procedure.<br />Can someone provide me with the correct procedure?</p>

<p>My concern is what to do with all my fine Olympus lenses if the company discontinue the FT cameras and my E-30 gives up.</p>

<p>Seems to be the natural solution:<br /><a href="http://www.43rumors.com/olympus-surprise-we-will-do-the-hybrid-ft-and-mft-camera-by-end-2013-no-classic-ft-e-7-camera-anymore/">http://www.43rumors.com/olympus-surprise-we-will-do-the-hybrid-ft-and-mft-camera-by-end-2013-no-classic-ft-e-7-camera-anymore/</a></p><div></div>

<p><strong> </strong></p><div></div>

<p>As far as I know is Viewer 2 going to replace Master 2 and Studio 2. Viewer 2 covers practically all functions in Studio 2 - exept camera control from PC.<br>

Why? <br>

Any experience with any of these?<br /><br /><a href="http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/camctl.asp" target="_blank">http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/camctl.asp</a><br>

<a href="http://home.comcast.net/~smenche/Cam2Com/index.htm" target="_blank">http://home.comcast.net/~smenche/Cam2Com/index.htm</a><br>

<a href="http://www.marssystems.com/inphoto/" target="_blank">http://www.marssystems.com/inphoto/</a></p>

<div></div>

<p>Greg<br>

You are very welcome. I live in Ålesund and will take you around in the region. </p><div></div>

<p>Olympus is one of the most innovative in the buisness. I cannot recall Canon og Nikon <em>ever</em> have contributed with any idea that have given the camera developement momentum or new direction. The two giants have always been surfing behind the developement, picking up what other has conceived.<br>

I find the MFT an complete natural step forward. The new electronic viewer have made the mirror outdated. It is an mechanical anachronism in a modern electronic camera. It will soon disappear even in professional cameras.<br>

I am myself an E-series enthusiast, but has welcomed the MFT and is awaiting an OMD that can make full use of my E-series lenses. In the meatime I will use my E-30 (sniffing on an second hand E-620) as long as it will last.</p><div></div>

<p>Not too bad news?<br />http://www.43rumors.com/olympus-surprise-we-will-do-the-hybrid-ft-and-mft-camera-by-end-2013-no-classic-ft-e-7-camera-anymore/</p>

<p>Bruce, thank you. I see.<br>

Is there a hope that the next OMD will fix this problem more satisfactory? I read some rumors that Olumpus was working on an adapter with a fix, translucent mirror to cope. <br>

To me this seems less likely now.</p><div></div>

<p>I bought E-P3 and was diappointed how feeble the autofocus worked with FT-lenses.<br>

I do not understand why this has to be the case. The MTF is based on contrast detection, and FT on phase detection. Both systems results in a flow of signals from the camera to the focus engine in the lens. <br>

The FT lenses DO work om MTF, but sluggish and often not spot on. Why?<br>

I's hard to understand is that the signals from the contrast detection cannot be transformed to signals corresponding to the phase detection signals, so they make the FT lenses work optimally on MTF.<br /><br /></p>

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<p>Thank you. I'll try.</p>

<p>My Zuiko 4-5,6 70-300mm is one of my two preferred workhorses. It is very sharp, but do not always hit the mark.<br>

An animal photographer wrote in a forum at Depreview that he did “lot of AF calibration of his 70-300 on his E-30”, and the lens got considerably more quick and accurate.<br>

I do not find anything in the manual about this.<br>

But I found this<a href=":%20http:/forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/f2/e-30-autofocus-adjustment-tutorial-50109.html">: http://forum.fourthirdsphoto.com/f2/e-30-autofocus-adjustment-tutorial-50109.html</a>, a button press sequence. But it is not clear what exactly is calibrated, if test cards were involved etc. and the effect of the manipulations.<br>

If somebody do know about this, I would be happy to know how to improve the AF properties of my 70-300mm on E-30.</p><div></div>

<p>My card in my E-P3 suddenly ran full. The card showed to, in addition to the photographic files, be filled with folders and chinese (?) characters. About half of the photographic files, .jpg and RAW, could not be read.<br />I sent the card to my local photodealer who scanned it with recovery programs. Only old, erased files was recovered. The ureadable files were still unreadable - but they are there. I have checked the suffixes. Theyr'e all ok. Metadata can be read, at least size, and time etc. The card is now working ok without any problems. But I have cept copies of the files on my computer.<br />Any help out there?</p>