mgvaughan.com

<p>This is quite a long thread- is there a link to samples of the shots? I retouch photos and am interested in seeing just how bad these really are.</p>

If you in fact do recover the lost images, perhaps you will be kind enough to post the recovery process here for others in the same circumstance. This is a tough, tough loss.

 

Follow your instincts and make it right with your clients.

Rawshooter has been acquired by Adobe to help create Lightroom.

The action comes from Peter Inova's book for the D70: http://www.gmbooks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=gmb&Product_Code=D70&Category_Code=100

 

I would suppose it's also available in his other books. Bottom line is it works.<div></div>

Why not send me your 3 exposure shots and I will apply the workflow I suggested to them. Let's see the results...<div></div>

I have a D70 also and use HDR for interior shots. Use available lighting, shoot in RAW mode 3 exposures- normal, +2 and -2. Open in Photoshop and apply an action called IDrange. Adjust with Shadow/ Highlights and tweak color.

The results are a natural appearance HDR versus synthetic/computer modeled apperance HDR.

 

The shot I have attached uses this HDR workflow. The original shots were taken in full sunlight at noon. Which means blown out highlights and blocked shadows in normal exposures. The HDR approach allowed for the attached photo as a final result.<div></div>

I have a D70 also and use HDR for interior shots. Use available lighting, shoot in RAW mode 3 exposures- normal, +2 and -2. Open in Photoshop and apply an action called IDrange. Adjust with Shadow/ Highlights and tweak color.

 

The results are a natural appearance HDR versus synthetic/computer modeled apperance HDR.

 

The shot I have attached uses this HDR workflow. The original shots were taken in full sunlight at noon. Which means blown out highlights and blocked shadows in normal exposures. The HDR approach allowed for the attached photo as a final result.<div></div>

Any 3 megapixel will do. There are plenty of those sitting around.<div></div>

I use an action called IDrange- the posted example was taken in full sunlight. The normal exposure was blown out with blocked shadows.

 

I used 2 stops up and down for shot 2 and 3, then combined. One advatage of the action is extensive control.<div></div>

Flickr.com has almost 10k images posted: http://www.flickr.com/groups/photomatix/pool/tags/photomatix/

 

This image was created using three exposures and an Photoshop action named IDrange. It combines the photos into a more realistic appearance.<div></div>

I would be interested in seeing the results of your theory- give it a go,

 

Personally, I use HDR for product shots. I understand combining multiple exposures for this purpose has been used by film cameras/scanning for quite some time.

 

However, most of the posted HDR shots I have seen begin with snapshots I would delete. Right now HDR seems to be experimental and unrefined. I welcome it when used with strong compostions and subject matter.<div></div>

We scan 126 to cd/dvd for as low as .65 per image (depending on quantity).

We scan 126 to cd/dvd for as low as .65 per image (depending on quantity).

We scan 126 for as low as .65 per image.

Rawshooter is $99- Lex, perhaps you could post an example of smudging in fine details and odd artifacts. I would be interested to see them. Have you mentioned this in the Rawshooter forum for the next upgrade?

Pixmantec's rawshooter is worth considering prior to an Aperture or CS purchase. It's both affordable and effective with RAW workflow.

Visit: http://www.pixmantec.com/

 

I process through Rawshooter before CS. In our workflow Aperture is already obsolete and overpriced.

Money talks- By sending the chocolates and a list of referrals you risk the bad mouthing of your business on a wider scale. Your apology is fine by itself.

I looked at your website and found it difficult to get back to the home page. The images are soft not crisp-I am viewing on a new digital lcd monitor. I would throw out the shots of backsides, and crop tighter on some of the faces (only show your best). I shoot weddings throughout the year and feel the challenges only make me better- stick with it if you are interested...<div></div>

Try using the program- Raw Shooter by Pixmantec. I have had consistently great results with it. BTW it's free!

I recently viewed an excellent Bromoil exhibit by McMillan studios http://www.mcmillanstudio.com/ in Great Falls, Montana. Approximately 30 prints with a Lewis and Clarke theme. The transfers were inspiring. Yet, I remain commited to finding a way to simulatethe process digitally.

try this link to view examples- http://www.gryspeerdt.co.uk/prints.htm

I'm looking for step by step information. Can you suggest a link?

Is there a photoshop filter, technique or action that emulates

Bromoil using digital files?<div></div>

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Can anyone tell me where the nodal point of a Dimage 7 is located?