paul_reklaitis

<p>If you define your print preferences from Lightroom or Photoshop the printer forgets about the settings after you close the program. It defaults to the windows settings. <br>

So set your preferences in windows. Go to | Start | Devices and Printers | Printing Preferences for 4880. Define your drivers and setting here and your settings will be remembered.</p>

<p>Pricing is like a water valve: When you want more water to flow (business) you open the valve (lower your price!) When too much water is coming out (more business) then you can change the valve (raise your price to reduce the amount of business). Image is everything... so don't take a $450 job when work is slow. Take a $2000 job and give the client a $1550 discount because they meet some requirement! (and treat it like a $2000 job, because they will become a sales force for you.) I get 95% of my work from referrals! </p>

<p>Why does a bride hire a photographer? Because she likes you or someone they trust likes you. They only check your website to validate that you are a competent photographer. And your website demonstrates that you are a good photographer. Good luck! </p>

<p>Dan,</p>

<p>Your photos on your photo.net bio page are better than the work shown on your website. I've learned that your portfolio is only as good as the worst photo in the grouping. So it's better to show one great photo, rather than 50 average photos. Plus, don't show the same model more than once. I'd rather see 5 of your best photos on your fire and ice collection. I saw a photo of a person playing a piano and a kid on a set of steps from photo.net that are gorgeous.</p>

<p>Try grouping your galleries on your website by female, male and event. As a customer, these are the three categories I'm interested in (even a female teen would just rather look at the female collection and see the entire range of your work.) Stop asking photographers what they want, ask a potential client, what THEY are looking for; marketing research!</p>

<p>Re-do your portfolio photograph and add content to your biography. People want to hire a photographer they like and trust. Trade with another local photographer to do each other's photos. </p>

<p>Contact your local area Chamber of commerce, or any business networking group. Ask them if they would like an event photographer at their big events in exchange for a little promotion. This will give you three things: practice, bigger portfolio, chance to meet influential people! A friend of mine went to EVERY spring training game and shot baseball photos for two years on his own dime. He met enough people and shot enough photos. Now he has his own column in a magazine just for his monthly work! AND everyone in the area knows him and his work.</p>

<p>Don't let this economy discourage you. Shoot someone/something Every day. At the end of the week, post your ONE BEST photo on your website and social networking sites. (Don't worry if it's not a portrait!) If you call yourself a portrait photographer and people know that you are a great photographer, then they will call you when the are ready!</p>

<p>oh, and as for your printing skills: Make sure you include a print with every photo shoot. Giving a client a disc and invoice is boring. But giving them a large print, disc, and invoice is Awesome! They don't mind paying, plus after they print at CostGreens local printer, they will compare the quality and hopefully come back to your for re-prints. </p>

<p>Plus, frame your best work of the week and bring it with you whenever you have a chance to show it off. within a few weeks, people will be disappointed when you don't have it and they don't get to see your new photo!</p>

<p>Good Luck and keep shooting!</p>

 

<p>I think your focus is off. Could be user error or bad lens. In the first photo the street (behind the car) is in focus and looks sharp compared to the zoom. I have the 20mm and love it; sharp with little distortion. Try a few more controlled tests then contact Adorama. Their support is excellent.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Quality is better than quantity! <br>

Visit the venue days or weeks before the wedding (same time as wedding) to get familiar with the area and the lighting!</p>

 

<p>Normal is too normal (ie boring...)<br>

I'm a portrait guy, so I'd take the 75mm first.<br>

And I'd find a way to sneak in the 35mm also!</p>

 

<p>Kevin: I totally agree. Being a professional photographer requires some leadership skills!</p>

<p>Leo: Someone once said, "Experts are those that have made all the mistakes."<br>

Next time, I'm sure you'll be ready to handle someone like that. But the funny thing is, it will probably never happen again! <br>

Good luck, and happy shooting!</p>

 

<p>You could print a billboard with the quality from a G11. Stunning results! Very comfortable! <br>

But I prefer the larger film/sensor size. Something about an 8x10 film that is timeless. With digital, I'll settle for my hasselblad hd3. The sensor size is twice the size of 35mm. It has amazing results. Subtle difference. <br>

It's like driving a Toyota to the grocery store: very nice and comfortable. But sitting in a Ferrari race car is amazing! Not as comfortable and easy, but exhilarating!</p>

 

<p>Matt is correct! Most lenses do NOT cause distortion. The distance of the subject from camera is what is causing the exaggerated distortion. If you are shooting people, stay at least 6 feet away from them. I prefer about 12 feet when possible. The size of the lens, will define what is in frame at that distance. 50mm on 1.6x camera is an 85mm equivalent lens which makes for nice 3/4 portraits at 12 feet.</p>

<p>Here's a way to easily 'test' what size lens to use without having your camera:<br>

1) Get a piece of thick stock cardboard.<br>

2) Cut out a hole the exact size of your sensor (or film).<br>

3) Find (or make) a ruler with mm measurements.<br>

4) Hold up the cardboard hole to frame your shot and measure the distance from your eye (don't poke your eye out!)</p>

<p>If you framed the subject 50mm from your eye, this would be the equivalent to a 50mm lens. This works for any camera, since the cardboard hole size varies based on your film/sensor size.</p>

<p>This is a only an estimate. Good luck and have fun!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have found that the B/Gs that I work with appreciate fewer, better quality images. Too many photos can be overwhelming. 200 great photos is very nice and easy for everyone to work with. But make sure that you communicate with you clients that is what they will probably get. Managing expectations and giving them more than they expect, is the KEY to client happiness!</p>

<p>As you do more weddings, you will take less photos that you throw away. And you will take more photos that you keep! </p>

<p>On the wedding day, be in front of the camera, not behind it! This is your sister's wedding! Enjoy it and be IN the photos! Be part of the memories. </p>

<p>If you want to give your sister a gift of photography do it the day before or after the wedding! Enjoy and Cheers!</p>

<p>The bride ordered this on canvas?! That is PROOF that it is a GREAT and FUN shot. Brides don't want photos, they want fun memories! I don't care if you used an i-phone or hasselblad, iso 50 or 6400, or even what lens you used. Brides don't care about the technical. (someone walking through a museum doesn't ask "I wonder what brush Picasso used") </p>

<p>Congrats and keep shooting with a smile! If I were you, I'd advertise the heck out of this photo. You'll get more business (from brides) when they see this fun photo!</p>

 

<p>Great shot. This photo works for me! It's one of those shots that people will try to imitate, but won't be able to duplicate.</p>

<p>I love the composition:<br>

The people surrounding the car form a circle around the bride. The brides arm, car body and windshield are at perfect angles to frame the bride. The DOF is precisely focused on the bride. The bride's expression is priceless. It' all about the bride!</p>

<p>If the bride ain't happy, ain't nobody happy!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I agree with the comment from Bill; "Slow Down!"</p>

<p>I'd rather get ONE great printed photo that lasts a lifetime, rather than a disc full of average shots that no one ever uses!</p>

 

<p>One!</p>

<p>Hasselblad digital 22 MP back! After 20,000 actuations it's already paid for the cost of film and processing that I would have spent to create all those images. Plus, the hasselblad digital backs are amazing. The colors and clarity rock!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Get a prime lens. Especially if sharpness is your issue.</p>

<p>Look back at your last year of photos. Find your 10 favorites. Look at what focal length these were taken. Then decide what prime lens to get. I love the 85mm f/1.8. I also love my 20mm f/2 and my 50mm f/1.8. You might be able to pick up all three for less than $1000.</p>

<p>Don't buy your lens twice! Why do you want to pay for anything twice???</p>

<p>If you buy a cheap lens, you will eventually realize that the cheaper lens isn't what you want and you will end up buying the lens that you feel is the best. Cut your cost in half, save up and buy the lens that you feel is the best for you. </p>

<p>I only buy Nikkor f/2.8 or faster. I've tried other cheaper brands and ended up returning, selling or shelving them. For manual focus I have a few Hasselblad lenses with a nikon adapter and I love the look, but hate the manual focus part. Nikon cameras can focus better than my eyes can, and Nikon lenses are just as sharp.</p>

<p>Nice bathroom! Ever hear of something called Comet! LOL<br>

Seriously, I thought your posts were both helpful and informative. Thanks!</p>

<p>Digital has a limited range of luminances between the darkest and lightest area of the photo. The newer (and more expensive) sensors have a greater range. But Film has even a greater range than the most expensive digital sensors. <br>

As long as your light is controlled and within 5-7 stops of light, digital is great and convenient. But if you want to capture a photo with deeper shadow detail and brighter highlights, then film is better.<br>

Ever notice on digital photos that the sky or highlights on a person's check or forehead get blown out and just looks pure white? And at the same time, the shadows just turn pure black? Well, film can handle those situations much better and it looks more realistic. <br>

I suspect that as sensor technology evolves not only will megapixels grow, so will the histogram range.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Save your money. It's no better than what you have (except for convenience). You are so limited by aperture, that your pictures will all look like they came from a point and shoot.<br>

I personally would rather have two prime lenses; 85mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/2. (Not as convenient as either option) AND, both primes will work when you eventually upgrade to Full Frame.<br>

With these two primes and a few steps forward or backward, I have noticeably better shots!<br>

Good Luck,<br>

Paul Michael</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Sig 50-500. I got better results using my 200mm f2.8 and cropping. Plus, I probably only used it once or twice. Expensive for small percentage of use. My mind tends to focus on small objects far away. But I force myself to see the big picture and photograph the entire scene. Then the viewer of the print can themselves focus in on what they think is interesting.<br>

My favorite lens is any Prime lens on full frame camera.</p>

 

<p>I have a D3. Great low light camera! I use flash in sunlight. Why? I let the sun act as a kicker light to shape the subject, and the flash fills in the shadows and adds a sparkle to the eyes. <br>

In very low light with flash, it is very easy to overexpose the subject and underexpose the background. This is where manual controls on camera and flash are important. Practice makes perfect! <br>

Here's an example of almost total darkness with lights from the stage. The D3 Sensor at 6400 ISO is amazing.</p><div></div>

<p><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cray_XT5" target="_blank">Cray XT-5</a> should do the trick!<br>

<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cray_XT5" target="_blank"></a></p>

<p>Practice make perfect. If you know the time of day and location, then take 1-2 friends and do a few dozen test shots, before the wedding. You will learn from your mistakes and you will be more confident on the day of the wedding. <br>

Notice the light. The sun is on the group's back and the camera is metering on and exposing for the faces. </p>

<p>On the other hand....</p>

<p>I had a close family member ask me to shoot their wedding. (I am a professional wedding photographer.) I declined, but found another photographer friend that did it for a few hundred dollars as a favor to me. It was the best decision I ever made, since I got to enjoy my families wedding with no stress. And they got good photos as well and were happy that I celebrated with them and was in the photos. <br>

Good luck with your decision!</p>