matt_hein

<p>Diyphotography.net</p>

<p>Yes, you can still use the L if you upgrade. They are a ton sharper, better contrast, better AF, better build, a bit heavier. you have the XTi right? Good camera body, spend money on the glass, you can keep the lens when you upgrade your body.</p>

<p>Stay with the XSi (450D) Mine works great. What are you trying to photograph? Portraits? Weddings? Build your Lens kit. Some good sharp zooms or some good fast primes. Like the 80 1.8 or the 100 f2. Those are fast and sharp. Good background bokeh and are good length on the APS-C sensor.</p>

<p>It will if the trick is to go blind. The sun is still very bright. What you mainly see is the corona. But you could possibly use a solar filter. Could be the same thing. Search around. Just don't go blind.</p>

<p>What's the battery life on that thing?</p>

<p>Then deffinately bring both. Bring your macro too. There could be many interesting things to do close up shots with.</p>

<p>Landscape photographers still use telephoto lenses. When they don't want somehting in the scene or if they want something in the scene to look bigger. I second Dan's comment, bring both. Are you going Aerial or walking?</p>

<p>MM on the lens is how long it is. In regular 35mm format. (film format). 50mm is regular, or equalt to what you see. Any thing below that is wide and thing over is telephoto.</p>

<p> Telephoto compresses and makes things that are far way look bigger. 70 and 80 are portrait lenses. Even more so on the crop bodies. 150 is longer and can still be used for portraits. And other things that you might want to get close to without physically getting close.</p>

<p>Wide angle makes things distorted. Things closer to the lens will look bigger than those farther away. Landscape and real estate photographers use these alot, Be aware, wide angles aren't the only lenses used by landscape photographers.</p>

<p>Need an ND 6 I think that way you don't go blind looging at it. And you don't ruin your gear.</p>

<p>Primes. That is the way to go for speed at that length. Cause 5.6 is the fastest zoom in the 250-300 range. The f4 70-200 or the 2.8 70-200. Or you could get primes. They are faster. But then at that length they are L and expensive.<br>

If 5.6 is all you need then go with the 70-300 4-5.6 IS USM.<br>

Don't go for the all-in-ones. They have poor quality since they have to cover such a long distance.</p>

<p>You posted this on the Fred Miranda forums as well. I think that you are trying to get people to show off what they can do with umbrella lighting, as well as get people to flock to this to argue. I'm not a guy who has a lot of money at the moment. If I did have some and was interested in studio photography, I would probably get a few. That's just me. I don't need to best studio lighting cause that isn't what I do right now.</p>

<p>Well, if there will be alot of them it will just be a ton of streaks. I suggest go out there before it starts and start setting up. To set up things for me takes about 10 min. Point it at the sky, probably the 10mm end. And make use f8 at 10sec or 30sec. That way you get some of the streaks and not all of them in a single picture. You could play around with it. But I suggest set it to infinity and just keep snapping away durring the shower.</p>

<p>Have some fun and play with the settings a bit.</p>

<p>If you can, I would get the 40D if they still have it. I have read reviews where they say the 50D is actually a tad worse. If you like macro then maybe a ring flash?</p>

<p>I mentioned the 75-300 cause I looked through it. That is, from what I saw, a bad lens. I couldn't manual focus and get it sharp.. But It had the reach, which is the same length the 70-300 IS USM has. Thanks for all of your suggestions.</p>

<p>With the Canon 300 f4 IS USM My back pack would barely be able to carry it. I doubt with the lens hood on. I checked the mesurements and it would be VERY snug, to the point of almost getting stuck.. I have the Flipside 200. the 70-200 f4 and a teleconverter would fit, but I think that is about as big as I can go without a backpack upgrade.....</p>

<p>I do have some old games I don't play anymore.... Hmmm... With the 300f4 I could use for portraits as well... It would just have to be a ways away...</p>

<p>I would love to have a set of primes, but it just isn't reasonable to have an 18-55 IS and a 300 IS USM. Haha. </p>

<p>I have them next to each other in my Lowepro DMC-Z and nothing bad has happened as of yet. I have a spare battery in there along with 4 extra cards.<br>

And it has room for you to have extra cards if you want them. The case is $11 at best buy. and the same price right from Lowepro but then you pay shipping...</p>

<p>Hmm.. I have a tripod. I could possibly have a monopod so I don't NEED IS. Also, Harry, I'm not made of money. I can accept a little bit of a stretch. Like up to the Lenses that Jack said. But I highly doubt I will be able to purchase the 100-400. I think that I might be able to afford the 200 2.8 but that is with a bit of a stretch. It doesn't have the reach though. I looked through a 75-300 that was at wal mart. I was just looking to see what the reach looked like. It looked nice. I think that the reach will work. Now IQ will have to be seen to determine.</p>

<p>I have recently put the focus on the back button and it seems like it is more fun to shoot, Like I have more overall control and just seems better. And I'm pretty sure, Mendel, that it will carry over. You are talking about using the center AF point right?</p>

<p>Well, some times I can get fairly close to wildlife. Like out at a friends house in Hill county I was able to get about 30' from a fox and about 40' from a herd of deer. Just that I didn't have a long enough lens to do anything with... I would like something with versatility. If I really want to get into portrait photography I have a friend who can help me out. I will buy a 100mm Macro or the 200mm f2.8. But that isn't what my main focus is right now... I think I will just have to go into a camera store and try them out... That might be the only way for me to know what I need... Or rent a few lenses...</p>

<p> I am in the market for a wildlife lens. I am looking at the 70-200f4 and the 70-300 IS USM 4-5.6 .<br>

I am with the 70-300 because of the reach, and the IS. The 70-200 for IQ and aperture speed.<br>

My price range is about $600. I will be shooting alot of things. Deer, dogs, birds (sometimes), and other animals. I will need the reach of the 70-300 because of the deer and birds.<br>

I also might do portrait photography but I am not sure about that. That thought is on the back burner right now.<br>

I am worried about the 70-300 being too slow. Or not being very sharp. I am currently using an Rebel XSi and the kitlens.</p>

<p>I am not a studio photographer at all, but my suggestion is to get them a bit away from the background. So when you take the picture and the lights flash, the light doesn't have time to like the background. That is just my thoughts on this.</p>

<p>EF-S lenses are compatible with all APS-C sensor cameras. In other words, they are compatible with your T1I. I think it is the 18-200 you were talking about. Most zoom lenses don't have a good macro function. You need a true macro for that. And most long zoom range lenses aren't that good over all. You should indeed buy a regular macro. It can double as a portrait lens also.</p>

<p>I have two batteries and I usually have IS on and auto focus with the AI servo. I have never had a battery run out on me, but I always have two. And I rotate them. </p>

<p>You already have a 85mm and a 50mm so I would go with the 35. But more information on what you will be shooting will help make a more suitable decision.</p>

<p>I have the XSi and mine does the same thing. If you want have it not do that when you take a picture with flash then change the mode AF mode from one shot to AI servo.</p>