brian_hankey1

<p>Are you using "save for web?" If not use it.</p>

<p>lost my manual</p>

<p>Technincally you're supposed to use an 18% grey card not white. </p>

<p>Why not shoot in RAW mode in difficult lighting situations?</p>

<p>Why not just disable auto ISO? I can't think of any good reason to ever use this feature. In digital you always want the minimum ISO necessary. If you are getting down to unacceptably low shutter speeds just adjust the ISO up manually. Doubling the ISO is the same as opening the aperature one stop or halving the shutter speed. </p>

<p>I have zero ability at this but I want to learn.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhbMDmc4GIM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhbMDmc4GIM</a> <--- Like this (not so extreme but this shows generally what I'm after)</p>

<p>And this ---->

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Is anything <em>else</em> better at salvaging these problems? In the meant ime i'll check out smart sharpen thanks.</p>

<p>What exactly is the process for "shooting to the right"? I have generally found if I overexpose I get hot spots that cannot be removed later. </p>

<p>Well what IS the best method for something that is slightly out of focus, slight camera shake and/or appears soft from high ISO?</p>

<p>It's probably worth mentioning that I have nikon raw format .nef files for all the images in question. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks for the input. I was thinknig more along the lines of a free option / something I can do myself within photoshop?</p>

<p>It's probably worth mentioning I have niko raw foramt .nef files for all. Thanks.</p>

<p>I have some images I need to work on that are soft for a variety of reasons - slightly out of focus, camera shake and high iso setting (I think noisy images also appear blury). I have asked seperately abou noise reduction - once that's finished what is the next best thing to do to sharpen?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>I had to shoot some stuff at pretty high ISOs ranging from 600-1600 on a D70 which is horrible news. What is the best method to clean up the noise as much as possible? I'm not expecting much particularly from the 1600 images but something is better than nothing!</p>

<p>Even considering all the batch processing stuff photoshop will do?</p>

<p>Is there a better technique? Layered gaussian I am familiar with and even if that's what this is is there a better technique?</p>

<p>I have seen the website for Portrait Professional and I thought virtually all of their example before and afters ranged from hideous to down right scary looking.</p>

<p>I read in another thread blur is not the way to go on skin but I'm still not clear what the superior technique(s) are. Do you know any? <br>

<br /> Would gaussian blur still allow you to see the pores like it does in this example? It seems like you would need an awful lot of blur to get such good results.</p>

<p>But in terms of editing? I keep reading posts where people talk about fixing color in Lightroom and things like that. </p>

 

<p>Rainer, brigthness looks prety good. I can't tell if I'm lying to myself that I can see the difference between A and B and Y and Z but I can see allt he other differences quite clearly. </p>

<p>Well believe it or not mine has several available color temperatures, sRGB and user defined (meaning you can vary the R, G and B settings individually) plus the standard brightness and contrast. I haven't used a CRT in a while but if I remember correctly those are the same kind of settings CRTs have. Anyway isn't there some kind of a tutorial that comes with some reference images I can sort of try to tune my monitor to?<br>

Is there anything I should be doing in CS4 settings/options to tweak as well? I'm totally new to it.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Yea of course the shutter doesn't matter as long as it synchs... duh. Don't know what I was thinking.</p>

<p>Well I have borrowed an SB-800 to play with but I read that the little tiny internal flash on my D70 has a guide number of 56 at ISO 200. I was finding that kind of hard to believe but now since you explained that's F1.0 at 56 feet it seems a little more believable. I'm correct in assuming that would be something like F2.0 at 28 feet? I.e. half the distance = 4 times the light intensity = go up two full stops? </p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Is there a tutorial somewhere? My monitor has RBG controls and color temp setting (currently set to 6500K). I have an 22" LCD. I know nothing will match a calibration tool but I actually have one at home and I'm abroad right now and not interested in buying another one. Thanks.</p>

<p>Subject says it all. Thanks.</p>

<p>http://modelmayhm-2.vo.llnwd.net/d1/photos/090220/08/499ed5a6d3c89.jpg I think this is a pretty damn good job, perhaps not flawless but very good. Does anyone know how to do it? I don't think my technique is this good and I'm looking for better options. Thanks.</p>

<p>If a flash has a guide number of 56 feet at ISO 200, what would the exposure for a subject at 56 feet with ISO 200 film and the flash on full power be? I.e. F5.6 1/60, etc.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Yea I know it's not a very good photo, probably a bad example to post but I have others in my gallery. That was just a snapshot taken in a bar by somebody else, I just wanted to see what I could do with it. I like the BW personally.</p>

<p>original</p><div></div>