dirk_hansen

<p>There is also a way to reach 8 fps without the grip, using the bracketing function.<br>

Not ideal as having the grip, and has some limitations, but it does work.<br>

<a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00Xk1A">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Xk1A</a></p>

<p>I would definately take the 100-300, as the extra reach over the 50-150 will definately be worth it. And if you are real close to the action, you will be able to really zoom in on a players face, or swing, etc. </p>

<p>I went to the US Open last year at Torrey Pines and took in a Tamron 18-250 for a practice round, and was glad to have the length. Not a great lens, but worked well enough.</p>

<p>By the way, I also took my 10-20 Sigma, and did use it to create some nice panoramas, including one of the 18th hole. So I would encourage you to take that as well, but I just used a small lens pouch hanging on my belt, and leftr the other lens attached to my camera, rather than bring a bag in, whcih were not allowed anyway.</p>

<p>I can also vouch for the 180/2.8; just a great lens that I use a lot for indoor college basketball.<br>

I've also got the 70-200, but it is is much bigger and heavier, as well as pricier. Love it, but I bought the 180 first and am always pleased with the quality I get, and some arenas won't allow me to bring in the 70-200, but will allow the less than 5" long 180 lens.<br>

I would avoid the 300/f4, as it will just be too slow for indoors, and probably too long as well.</p>

<p>The 4 x 6 is a pretty good way to go because, that's the same as a 8 x 12. So later if you want to print a 8 x 10, you'll just need to lop off 2 inches from the long side. But you need to make sure you leave enough space on the long end of your 4 x 6 crop so that if you do at some point want to print an 8 x 10, the 2 inches you cut off would not be a key part of the picture.<br>

The way I sometimes do it is when you are doing your cropping, first do the 4 x 6 crop, then change it to 8 x 10 to see what it would like like and make sure the 2 inches wont be cutting out something important in the picture.<br>

Works similarly for the 5 x 7 size, which is in between the 4 x 6 and 8 x 10 ratio.<br>

Otherwise the other advice was good - just keep the original, and save the cropped versions as different names.</p>

<p>I feel your pain. About a year ago, I was taking photos with my D300 and 70-200 lens near the ocean in La Jolla California, and a big wave came crashing onto the rocks I was standing on. My reflex was to turn away from the wave, but the wave knocked me down and I fell on the rocks. Of course I reached out with my hand to break my fall, and my camera and lens clanked down onto the ground! My leg and arm hurt like hell, and after I got over the embarrasment and determined no bones were broken, I then was horrified to find my 1month old D300 would not work, and the 70-200 took a hot on the edge, but was thankfully okay. The camera hit hard on the bottom rear edge, so it took quite an impact, but no pieces broke off or anything like that.</p>

<p>Long story short, I took it to an authorized Nikon repair shop in San Diego, and $280 later it was working again - knocked some stuff loose inside they said. Unfortunately in the last year I've had to return twice with the same issue, both time the repair shop fixed it for free (thank you!), it is the connection between the shutter and the memory card - the shutter would sound like a shot was taken, but nothing would get recorded and then I had to open the battery compartment to get the power to go off. It's working now, but I'm nervous it'll never be the same, kind of like a car with a twisted frame after an accident.</p>

<p>Needless to say, I walk very carefully now and stay away from wet slippery places when shooting! </p>

<p>The best advice others have already given you is to just take it in and get an estimate and go from there. Hopefully they can fix it for jsut a few hundred bucks - good luck!</p>