Jump to content

randy_ramkissoon

Members
  • Posts

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by randy_ramkissoon

  1. <p>Hi. I wanted to know more about the settings on your camera. Are you using "AI Focus" mode?<br>

    Also to confirm, are you us the back focus configuration in the camera. If so you can reverse the buttons to the * button.<br /> This might be a good work around.</p>

    <p>http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml</p>

  2. <p>I had the opportunity to get a little practice shooting at night at the Toronto Buskerfest. The act 'NoMaD Cirquel' was awesome even when crowded in with my fellow Torontians. I really like the colour cast from the flames. Shot with Canon E0S-50d and EF 17-40mm<br /> <br /> <a href="http://l.facebook.com/l/VAQHksYhrAQGUNpmxI1xYUF7DNn8sxclZFJT-fSxS9oHmYw/www.nomadcirquel.com/" target="_blank">http://www.nomadcirquel.com/</a><br>

    <img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5594/14882715830_549c44c325_z_d.jpg" alt="" /></p>

  3. <p>Hi Swapan</p>

    <p>From looking at your settings and the shot I can tell that 1/25 is too slow for capturing a flower which has water dropping off it (which means something is moving) at 180mm. Ideally your minimum shutter speed should be faster then 1/180.<br>

    So to start with I think we need to eliminate technique from the issue.</p>

    <p>(1) Read this article and make sure you follow the rules for sharpness.<br>

    Achieving Better Focus and Sharpness in Your Images<br>

    http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/shooting/achieving-better-focus-and-sharpness-in-your-images/</p>

    <p>(2) Follow the rules and complete a focus test with one of the free online resources.<br>

    e.g. http://focustestchart.com/</p>

    <p>(3) Then go indoors and make sure the model you are taking a shot of is still. E.G. take flower indoors and put in vase. IF you have to clip the head to something to insure little to no movement.</p>

    <p>(4) Camera settings. Try shooting the photo with the following settings:</p>

    <p>180mm<br>

    No higher then F8<br>

    Shutter speed higher then 1/180<br>

    To supplement light use flash or reflector to keep your shutter speed high.</p>

    <p>Then post your full shot and we can discuss it.</p>

  4. <p>I was out trying to get the last of the fall colours (Saigeon Trail Richmond Hill Ontario) when I found these dried out wild flowers. I was pleasantly surprised that I as able to use a low depth of field to give the background a water colour effect.</p>

    <p>Taken with Canon EOS 50D with Contax Planar 50mm F1.7 at F4</p>

    <p><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/5130176622_d61b4691d6_z.jpg" alt="" width="426" height="640" /></p>

  5. <p>Thanks Shawn and Matt.</p>

    <p>I feel a bit foolish at the moment (since I do use the dof master website to calculate depth of field. My question originally was more to capture information about what experiences people were having with their particular 50mm lens. This was mainly because I wanted to get an idea on how others would tackle the same type of shot. I now realize I was looking at the situation incorrectly since generally 50mm lens should all act similarly out side of being wide open.</p>

    <p>It seems my confusion at the moment has more to do what I would see on full frame vs crop. Would I be correct in assuming if I was going to take the same picture on a crop vs full frame with the same composition I know I would have to stand farther back from the subject with the crop body (because a 50mm lens behaves like a 80mm). As a result should I also assume that I would be required to close down the aperture and therefore to get the same depth of field on a crop I may shoot at F5.6 but on a full frame I should be able to get away with F2.8 because I'm closer to the subject?</p>

  6. <p>Hi</p>

    <p>I've been doing some reviewing of my full body shots (head to toe) photos taken with my Contax Planar 50mm lens on my crop body and have been noticing that to get sharp waist up photos I tend to be shooting at F4 to F5.6.</p>

    <p>I'm curious what others peoples experience is shooting with 50mm primes on crop bodies. What F-stop do you normally use to get the same clarity?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

  7. <p>Hi Rebecca</p>

    <p>In my case I went with the Contax Planar 50mm F1.7 because I was able to get a new one and at the time I was looking for a durable option because I kept on hearing issues with the Cnon 50mm F1.8 and F1.4 focus motors failing.<br>

    <br /> I have had 1.5 year to compare it against my brother Canon 50mm F1.4. The main benefit of the Canon F1.4 lens is it is very accurate at getting a fast sharp focus. If you are shooting people in motion then this is a benefit the F1.4 will have over the F1.8. IMO looking at all Canon 50mm lens you will notice that the quality of photo above F4 is the same. There are some slight bokeh differences but at F2.8 you will see the same quality you see in the Canon EF 24-70.</p>

    <p>If you use manual focus to make adjustments on a regular bases then as Bueh mentioned the best option is the F1.4. Keep in mind also that what ever Canon lens you go for you should include getting the lens hood. It is my understanding that the lens hood is good for protecting the lens front from getting bumped. Specifically it is the lens getting bumped which may cause premature failure of the focus motor.</p>

    <p>Hopefully this info is helpful.</p>

×
×
  • Create New...