owen_s

<p>overall, it's a very nice set.<br>

the biggest thing I noticed is that their eyes are deep in shadows most of the time, which can be fixed by using a diffused fill flash on top of the camera, or a reflector (a tiny fill flash is easier to mount to the camera, than a 30 or 40 inch reflector, or lug around a reflector stand)</p>

 

<p>shooting wide open will only give you a few inches in focus, and the more you zoom in the less that will be in focus from the even narrower depth of field..<br>

 <br>

so try f5.6 at a minimum when shooting people; and velco a small led flashlight to the bottom of the camera to light the sceen as the camera focuses.. also zoom in to focus, it helps get it spot on.</p>

<p>i also shoot with a XSi, I reccomed that you get yourself a copy lof lightroom 2 (now at version 2.5); the most common edits are balancing the lighting with gradients to exposure and brightness, adding in selective highlights on things you consider the forground with the adjustment brush; and play with the colors for a formal subdued portrait look.</p>

<p>the big thing about playing with an image in raw vs the jpg, or in the raw voncerted versese imported into photoshop, is in the raw you have 5 ftsops of worth of picture information to move the exposure around with.. once converted to jpg or tiff, thats gone</p>

<p>i've found it fun to let priceline pick the hotel randomly, and give me the cheapest deal on the room, most of the cheap ones from them have worked out amazing well</p>

<p>modelmayhem should cover all your bases, put a casting on their for your project, or browse for models that meet your critera, as well as mua's that have not done it, but have simular style images... schedule at least 2 of each for the same time, since many flake, so you don;t waste your time</p>

<p>and one more thing, about half of the look of full fashion style is done in post processing with photoshop,</p>

<p>oh and the closer you get to the maniquins the tighter the fstop you will need to use to keep the depth of field wide enough to keep the clothes sharp and in focus</p>

<p>surely your joking with us? your stream of conciousness dump, is so over the top!</p>

<p>heres a list what you will need to get with your lighting<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/507139-USA/Canon__580EX_II_Flash_2x.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/507139-USA/Canon__580EX_II_Flash_2x.html</a><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/486706-USA/Canon_1946B002_580EX_II_Flash.html"></a><br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=IMDFUMK&N=0&InitialSearch=yes">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=IMDFUMK&N=0&InitialSearch=yes</a></p>

<p> </p>

<p>usually caused by a few bad spots of ram, run a memory checker</p>

<p>visit amazon, look at their best sellers list about photoshop, pick a few, read about a quarter of each book, and you will have a foundation; then take about a year to really figure out what you need to do</p>

<p>I have never uploaded directly from the G10, i always take the memory chip out and stick that into the computers card reader, or on of those usb card readers, and it worked find with lightroom 2.3, 2.4, and 2.5 reading direcly from the card</p>

<p>check for newer video drivers; light room uses hardware acceleration when it can find it, creating lot more of crashes, then before over simple stuff</p>

<p> it doesn't happen to me (I have a nvidia sli setup, and a ati crossfire setup), and I used to have the problem that the when I used the adjustment brush, if I made the area it applied to about 75% percent of the photo it would get slower and slower to add more area to it, but 2.4 made that all better</p>

<p>but in the conversion to tiff, the file will triple in size, and lose the all important 5 levels of fstop information</p>

<p>on the photoshop scrren you have icm "off, no corrections", try selecting "printer manages"</p>

<p>it will be slow, lightroom is a cpu hog</p>

<p>if you shoot raw, then lightroom is 10,000 times petter than phototshop as you can get to the 5 levels of fstop information kept in the raw file, when you want to darken areas and get details back, (as long as they were not burnt out), while in pgotoshop, you spend about 30 secons in the raw converter, and just try and clone/grey neutral layer to repar too areas of luminace problems</p>

<p>yep double tapping, or pusing down too hard and holding will cause that.. </p>

<p>instead of manetic lasso which is actually easier with the mouse, why dont you try quick mask mode, by making a starter selection with the rectangle selection tool, then hit q, and paint the selection using black to exclude, and white to include, it's alot easier for the pen, than the mouse. when you got it right, hit q again to get back the selection</p>

<p>an ati 3650 will cover you; look for it at ebay or newegg</p>

<p>No, cause the dng file (without an attached raw) is not 3 times as large...</p>

and by hosting on smugmug, your part of their system wide outages, as your site is currently unavailable, try www.dotphoto.com, they have better slide shows than smugmug anyhow

<p>physical prints in a portfolio alongside other images of the same type and style are usually ok, most people do not want their risque images showing up on the web, where future employers and their own childern can come across them accidently while googling.</p>

 

<p>have the daughter seated and the child on a step stool, make sure the mom is the tallest in the photo; even if that means she is standing on a ladder</p>

<p>manual setting shutter 125th, and fstop no lower than f12, or the people in the back or front will be out of focus, use a flash on the camera and two more flashes mounted on stands with cheap umbreallas for flash or cheap 16x16 softboxes for flash, if b&h is not in your budget, you can find it all on ebay</p>

<p>do not take the picture untill 3 hours before sunset, and then find a shady place, or wait till 1 hour before sunset and then it doesn't matter where you are.. otherwise your flash will not have enough power to fight the direct sunlight</p>

<p>your lens choice is ok, as long as your within 3 feet of the subject, and then you cannot touch f2.8 as only the eyes of the center subject would be in focus, you'd have to be at f12 or f18 to have any hope or getting them all in focus.. </p>

<p>A better choice would be 8 to 9 feet from them with a 28-70 f2.8 (tamron and sigma make these), on a cropped sensor camera, or a 70 to 200 f2.8 on a full frame,</p>

<p>beyond 3 to 4 feet a wide angle will make people look larger than they really are</p>

<p>make a contract that lists what your willing to pay her, and if she balks, then their are a million others out their that would jump at the chance, this isn't rocket science, just art :)</p>