paul_runnoe2

<p>Not sure if mentioned, but focus on the leading eye if they fall on a different focal plane - in this case, have the other one further off to be intentionally out of focus, or try to get both on the same plane and in focus.</p>

<p>The target was an 8 second exposure to get streaming headlights and brakelights from traffic.</p>

<p>I would have set my exposure for 8 seconds, then found 'an' appropriate aperture - in this case 5.6 or 8 or 11 - if it varied drastically from this range, then I could adjust the ISO a little providing it didn't degrade the final image.</p>

<p>Or easist way, set your 8 second exposure, then take whatever aperture you need, provided it falls within the lens' range.</p>

<p>I'll second the Kata - think about when you're on vacation with your camera gear - you want to carry it around with you all day as you explore your destination.</p>

<p>Well, the easiest way for me to carry weight is in a backpack, not with an over-the-shoulder strap, or wheeled around, or briefcase carry style.</p>

<p>Shot around 1000 shots on a 5DII, medium size jpg, then reviewed each one on the LCD and deleted around 350, then uploaded everything onto the PC. The battery was around 20% before the upload, and maybe 10% after.</p>

<p>Many people have been thrilled with the aftermarket batteries available $15 for battery and charger, similar performance, but no power info/chip. I'm too much of a gear head and battery geek and I'm just in heaven at how accurate and precise the OEM batteries report at 1% increments - it was worth the extra money for me.</p>

<p>Another point to consider, your camera comes with an LP-E6, and a charger. With an aftermarket battery you need to use their charger which raises the issue of bringing two chargers with you while traveling, or ditching the superior OEM battery for two aftermarket ones should you want to travel with two batteries. Do a search here and Amazon reviews, some aftermarket brands are liked better than others.</p>

<p>For the shooting your doing go with the 2941, the articulating center shaft on the EX series is another potential source of vibration. Handy if you want to do low angle or table top stuff.</p>

<p>That said, the three section would be my choice over a four section leg. - Maybe hold out for a used 2931?</p>

<p>Here is a link on disassembling the 50mm f/1.8 II - usually to fix a stuck focus ring.</p>

<p>Give it a shot if you're adventurous.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.ejarm.com/photo/ef5018iidis/">http://www.ejarm.com/photo/ef5018iidis/</a></p>

<p>I would like to hear more about this 16-35mm L prime lens - it must be so nice to have a lens like that: sharper and lighter than my 16-35mm L zoom.</p>

<p>My guess is you'll need to remove the softbox as it halves the light distance, and at that distance whether the light source is 3" or 15" across will be quite negligible.</p>

<p>How many feet away is the subject?</p>

<p>70-200 would be too long on a crop body, and since you want to upgrade to a crop body, I'd recommend the 24-70 f/2.8.</p>

<p>IS?</p>

<p>What camera bag will carry all that stuff at once?</p>

<p>Army / Airforce - AAFES.COM with a 15% internet coupon, $2166.</p>

<p>All good points everyone.</p>

<p>I think its mostly a gear-craving that I'm having which usually passes after a month or so. Really, my 50 1.8 does just fine, and its so small and light, its my 'going out at night' kit that I can carry around without always having to hold it with two hands like a baby (as I need to do when holding the 70-200).</p>

<p>I appreciate all of the feedback, and I think that I just needed another confirmation that my three lenses really cover anything that I need - which is the same reasoning I used when I got them in the first place!</p>

<p>I know that were I to ask for opinon my subjects and useage would be the primary factory in considering fixed focal length lenses over zooms, but I'm really just asking for pnet's users' personal preferences and why.</p>

<p>I find that I've been frequently grabbing my 50mm f/1.8 II for indoor lamp-lit shots of my new baby girl. Winter is setting in, plus I work the night shift which means I only see a few hours of daylight a day.</p>

<p>My kit is the Canon 17-35mm f/2.8 L, 50mm f/1.8 II, and 70-200mm f/2.8 IS. I typically swap between one of the two zooms for outings, typically outdoor nature shots, or indoor shots of friends/family. For the past year I've been daydreaming about replacing the 17-35 with the new 16-35mm f/2.8 II if only for my own 'gear envy' satisfaction and not for any huge significant change in picture quality (well better sharpness in corners). Mounted on 5DII.</p>

<p>As of late, however, I've been toying with the idea of the 24mm f/1.4 II. Fast, wide, and sharp, it would probably remain on my camera most of the time for general purpose shooting. It would also be good for those lamp-lit baby shots and indoor available-light shooting. Then I thought about replacing the 70-200mm with the 85mm f/1.2 II for portraiture and other mild telephoto shots. Finally, I suppose if I won the lottery I would take a 200mm f/2 to cover the long end.</p>

<p>So, 17-35 2.8, 50 1.8, 70-200 2.8 swapped for 24 1.4, 50 1.8, 85 1.2, and (200 2.0) which do you prefer and why?</p>

<p>I don't actually know if B&H offers a sensor cleaning service - but if they did I would trust it.</p>

<p>Otherwise use some of the tips and procedures here <a href="http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/">http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/</a></p>

<p>When you say money is no object, that makes me drool a little.</p>

<p>If you combine the awesome high iso performance of the Canon 5D Mark II with the blow-you-away sharpness of the Canon 24mm f/1.4 L II I think you'd be in heaven. No other wide angle Canon is as fast.</p>

<p>Thanks all, I guess I'll just bring it all, plus my wife's powershot, and just evaluate once I'm in the room.</p>

<p>Thanks for the kind words, but how is a Canon G9 in the hand less obtrusive than a tele lens on a tripod working silently from twenty feet across the room?</p>

<p>Hey, thanks for the hands-on tip. I want the video to run while the baby comes out so I can say hello to my daughter, and cut the cord. It will be on a tripod and just be running in the background so I can get some video of the three of us and not be a distraction to myself or the staff.</p>

<p>My thought is the 70-200 can get a decent cropping of all of us and be far enough away to not get in the way of the hospital staff. I can only imagine the 17-35 on a tripod is going to have to be placed close enough to be a trip or knock down hazard. Again, I suppose that I will just have to assess the room once we get in as there should be plenty of waiting time before everything happens.</p>

<p>My first baby is scheduled via C-Section this Sept 21. I have talked to the doctor and have gotten permission to bring my camera and even setup a tripod. I don't really know the dimensions of the room, but my objective is to get some video as the baby comes out, then follow the baby down the hall where they will clean her up since my wife will remain on the operating table to be stitched up.</p>

<p>My first thought was to use my fast long lens for a small depth of field so that the baby 'pops' out in the video and pictures. I suppose I will have to see when I get to the room. Then it occurred to me that following down the hallway to the cleanup room, I'll probably want a wide lens so that I can follow closely without worrying about minimum focus issues.</p>

<p>What I think I will do is start with the long lens mounted on a tripod and set for a static video scene when the baby comes out so I can get in the video, the swap to the wide for going down the hall and baby back with mom.<br />I am working with the following: The high-iso capabilities of the Canon 5D II. Canon 17-35mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8 II, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS, Rode stereo video mic, and tripod with ballhead, Canon 550 EX Speedlite.</p>

<p>Any pointers and tips on shooting in this type of environment. My thought is to keep the flash in the bag, white balance the room, and just shoot in available light with the microphone mounted on the shoe. Maybe the 50 1.8 will be just the ticket and not worry about lens swapping?</p>

<p>Well at the-digital-picture.com the f/4 seems sharper at all apertures and all focal lengths.</p>

<p>They didn't do a good job covering it with the red cloth - you can clearly see its a cardboard box.</p>

<p>I've had some frozen/skipped frames when shooting a panning shot of a waterfall. This was on playback in the camera - just a fluke?</p>

<p>I agree with Peter Popp - I myself have a 5DII 17-35 2.8, 50 1.8, 70-200 2.8.</p>

<p>I cover 17-200mm with at least a 2.8 - the only other thing I would need would be a second body so I wouldn't have to swap lenses. (any maybe upgrade the wide lens to a 16-35 II)</p>

<p>Well, since the girlfriend issue is part of the thread title I will entertain that. So what broke the camel's back? Her being a girlfriend and not your wife, you are naturally expected to pay at least half of all your activities unless she has the somewhat antiquated notion that you are to pay for every shared activity, even the ones she proposes to do. I'm assuming this much. Did she try to have some sort of financial say in how you spent your money on yourself? Assuming you took care of the boyfriend financial duties, she was not your wife and you weren't financially bound.</p>

<p>I'd sell the 50D, get a 5DII and walk around with the 70-200 on the 5D and the 17-40 on the 5DII.</p>