daniirwan

<p>I love the 2nd photo John, good work!</p>

<p>Everyone, thanks very much for your responses & inputs. Judging from all the replies, then it most probably is a reversed lens element. Looks like my camera repair guy has messed up big time. Rest assured I'll be taking the camera back to him in the near future so that he can put right to what he made wrong. I hope he can rectify his mistake. The Aires 35IIIL is such a solid li'l gem of a camera that I just love using. Of course, it's EV-based exposure selection system can be improved or done without, but other than that it's very solid and a pleasure to use.</p>

<p>Louis: Yes, Louis, I remember Mr. Gass and the portrait of him that you took in your excellent write up on this camera some time ago. In fact, reading your article was what made me want an Aires in the first place! :) Anyway, I wouldn't hesitate to call on Mr Gass if I were in the USA, but I'm not. I'm in Malaysia, halfway around the world from you. So yeah, logistical problems..</p>

<p>John: Hehe, that might work! And judging from what the kids nowadays are paying for their LC-A's and Diana's, I might reap a decent profit doing it too.</p>

<p>Craig Dickson: Lensbaby? What's a Lensbaby? ;) We don't need no stinking Lensbabies!</p>

<p>JDM: You're right. Although, in my case, I'd rather opt for a real Petzval lens over a 'lens screwed up to give a Petzval effect' anytime.</p>

<p>Peter: Thanks very much Peter, I'm glad that you like the photo of the boy. He's my 1.5 years old nephew, little ijit. I like that photo too, find it to be strangely appealing. There are some other 'keepers' on the roll, which I like as well. Thanks again!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>John, thanks for your input. I'm not exactly sure what my repairman did, but he most probably did take apart the lens to get it cleaned and to repair the shutter. I think it's probable too that he might have misplaced a lens element, in that case. <br>

Is there a specific method to tell which element is in the wrong place, if any?</p>

<p>Hi all.<br>

<br />Several months ago I received my Aires 35 IIIL. This one used to belong to Marion Carpenter (see here). The camera arrived to me dead, it had a non-working shutter, kaput rangefinder & as I recall a dirty lens. So off it went to my local professional camera repairman. He had a tough time repairing it, taking more time than usual. <br>

<br />About a month or so afterwards, I received it back from him. I was happy with his work, the camera is now very clean and all functions work correctly as it should. I eagerly loaded a roll of Legacy Pro 400 (bulk loaded) into the Aires and proceeded to finish the roll quickly during a family picnic. After development, a quick look at the negatives told me that the pictures are basically alright (no light leaks, etc) but there was something 'wrong' with them. Hard to tell without scanning it. The next morning, I scanned the negatives and lo and behold...<br>

<br />All the photos seem to be alright in the center of the frame, but everywhere else (left, right, top & bottom edges & corners) it's all blurred out, almost like a swing/tilt movement in LF. See the attached photos.<br>

Suffice to say I was disappointed. This particular Aires model supposedly has an excellent lens and I was looking forward to seeing them myself.<br>

<br />I've never encountered this before. What could be causing it? Is the lens to be blamed? Taking a look at the film pressure plate, I kinda suspect it's the culprit. Can film flatness issues cause this kind of photos?<br />When viewed from the top of the camera, the film pressure plate appears to be higher at one end compared to the other, i.e it's not straight. See photos below.<br>

<br />I'd appreciate any feedback or opinions. Thanks very much in advance!<br>

<br />Best,<br>

Dani<br>

<img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/DSC_1149r1.jpg" alt="" width="1023" height="680" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/DSC_1150r1.jpg" alt="" width="1023" height="680" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/10.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="675" /><br>

<img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/19.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="674" /><br>

<img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/DSC_1151r1.jpg" alt="" width="1023" height="680" /><br>

<img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/Aires%2035IIIL/DSC_1152r1.jpg" alt="" width="1023" height="680" /></p>

<p>I'm 98% sure it's a Vitomatic, that huge VF and the recessed advance lever is hard to be mistaken. Although it's hard to tell whether it's a Ia or IIa (or any other variant).<br>

I love mine, great shooters.</p>

<p>In line with the World Cup fever that's currently getting ahold of the globe, I'd like to share something I watched on telly a few weeks ago before the world cup started. They were airing previous historic world cup matches on my local cable TV, and the one I watched on that particular day was the West Germany vs England match in the 1970 World Cup held in Mexico.</p>

<p>I wasn't even born then, but I thoroughly enjoyed watching that game, mostly because during the course of it, I got to see so many of our beloved classics in use! If I recall correctly, there were Nikon Fs (toted by the pro photographers along the pitch), Yashica Mats, along with a host of other cameras (mostly rangefinders and viewfinder cameras) being used by the crowd!</p>

<p>In addition to that, the advertisement boards all along the pitch had ads for "ORWO films" and also "Zeiss of Jena". I felt a pleasant but totally incomprehensible tinge of nostalgia looking at those. If you look at the ad boards at the World Cup today, McDonald's, Sony, etc dominates. :(</p>

<p>I think I might have felt even more nostalgic if I was already around in 1970, and if I could remember that game from my childhood years. But I was born 10 years later. Now, a full 40 years after that W.Germany vs England match, I got to see that game and..I dunno..got to appreciate the cameras that were used? I wish I can articulate what I'm trying to say better.</p>

<p>Anyhow, it was good to see the classics that we treasure today being used when they were literally quite new.</p>

<p> </p>

Jeez Louis....why are u doing this to us...i'm betting the number of ebay searches for this camers has spiked since u

posted this!

<p>The Garden & Sleeping Vendor are excellent shots Michael, well done. I love my SP (Honeywell) and SP500 (Asahi), although the SP500 has some shutter curtain issues. None of my other SLR's gives me the tactile pleasure that I get when shooting with these beauties. I have a 35/3.5 Super Tak, and I find that the focal length is good for a walkabout lens. I like it.</p>

<p>Keep on posting! I love your work.</p>

<p>Nazar: Thanks for the tip..but what good would that do and why should it work?</p>

<p>Richard: Thanks! Keep 'em coming! Would love to see more of your shots with it.</p>

<p>I have an Argus Argoflex 75 that I bought off eBay along with a Kodak Duaflex IV. Haven't gotten around to using the Duaflex, as a trimmed 120 spool won't fit in it, unlike the Argoflex. I love mine, minimal controls, very simple but capable of astounding results if you use it right. Here's 2 of my best shot with it so far (the 2nd one was taken on a 15 year old Kodak Gold 620 film that came with the camera):</p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2715/4273963155_e2220d241e_b.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="1024" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2441/3842521136_287c92b813_b.jpg" alt="" width="1010" height="1024" /></p>

<p>My C35 is acting up right after I got it back from a 'CLA'! At first the meter appeared to be dead so I had my techie open up the camera again. He said there's a wire loose in there somewhere, he resoldered it and still the meter needle won't move. So then I changed the battery, from a SR44W silver oxide that was in there to a brand new size 675 zinc air hearing aid. Guess what? The needle came alive and moved freely all the way up and down the scale according to light levels. But when I brought it out to shoot a few days later, it acted up again..won't move up past f4 1/125 even when pointed directly at the sun! I don't what's up with it..will probably send it back for repairs. Sigh...</p>

<p>Wow Chris, those are really beautiful images! I especially like #2 and 3, for the OOF background. I have 2 rolls of Ektar 120 that I have yet to try, but judging from your results, I have to soon! I have a Nettar 517/16, newer than yours, I love it but the Novar lens on it has severe vignetting. Yours look way cooler though, with the external viewfinder.</p>

<p>Great job!</p>

<p>Hi Liana. A lot of good advice here. I have the same camera as yours, the Argus Argoflex 75. Since the Argoflex 75 doesn't have a cover for the red window, you can make a temporary mask out of black electrical tape or whatever is handy, to make sure the film doesn't get fogged up/exposed if you left the camera too long in the light. My Argoflex 75 came with an eveready case which covers up the red window when I put it on, so I haven't had any issues with accidental exposure of film.</p>

<p>An important thing to remember with the Argoflex 75 is that it has only 2 shutter speeds, Time & Bulb, if I'm not mistaken. TIME is around 1/60 secs or 1/30 secs, while Bulb is self-explanatory (the shutter will stay open as long as you hold the shutter release button). The aperture meanwhile, is approx f8 or f11. So essentially, when you use this camera with ASA 100 film, you can only have correctly exposed photos at an EV value of 12 or so, which corresponds to a slightly-less than sunny day. Sunny 16 rule would be implemented at EV value of 15. I've used ASA160 film with my Argoflex, and the exposures were ok as long as I kept in mind that this camera needs quite a lot of light.</p>

<p>However, I've read that with such simple cameras as this, the rule of thumb is ASA400 for shade, ASA100 for sunny/slightly cloudy and ASA50 for really really sunny. Could be good to keep this in mind too. So with your B&W ASA400 film, be sure to have a lot less than sunny conditions!</p>

<p>Here's a photo that I took with my Argoflex 75. I love this thing.</p>

<p><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2715/4273963155_e2220d241e.jpg" alt="" width="488" height="500" /></p>

<p>-Dani<br>

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia</p>

<p>Great shot! Is the lens a Chinon as well! I love how it looks like a photo from half a century ago!</p>

<p>Hi all. I've recently bought an Exa 0 (not sure which version it is, there are so many variations!) with a CZJ Biotar 58/2 lens. I'm very happy with the results it gives me, except for one thing...both rolls that I've shot with it came back with uneven frame spacing which causes the frames in the negatives to overlap, seemingly at random. I'd say 30% of the frames are affected in this way, while others are totally fine. I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary when I advanced the film using the advance knob, it turns smoothly and everything seems to be okay with the camera. This has got me stumped. Has any of you experienced this before, and if so, what causes it and can it be solved/repaired? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Thanks for all your replies everyone. After taking all of them into consideration, I have decided to purchase the K2, chrome-bodies. Its on it's way to me now. Hope everything will pan out well. Thanks again!</p>

<p>Hi Tim. Ok, looking forward to hearing more from you soon. As an update on my side, I've received my C35 and I've succesfully shot a test roll using LR44 alkaline 1.55V batteries. All shots came out okay.</p>

<p>Hello all! My wife and my shrinking budget for this month means I can only buy one camera over the next 30 days, haha. So please help me choose between an Asahi Pentax KX or an Asahi Pentax K2. Let me know which one you will go for and why. If possible, also provide a rough estimate of how much one in good working condition should cost.<br /> <br /> I already have an Asahi Pentax KM, and I love it. However the temptation of the KX's shutter sound and shutter speed & aperture displayed in the VF is too much for me. :D However, I wonder if upgrading from a KM to a KX is worth it..does the shutter speed & aperture display in the VF justify purchasing it?<br /> <br /> I am more severely tempted by the K2, seems to me that the vertical metal focal plane shutter is more robust than the cloth on the KM & KX, and I read somewhere the shutter sound of the K2 is simply sublime. The K2 is more full featured as well..and mirror lock up ability, full manual or Auto Aperture Priority exposure too! BUT therein lies the rub, all the electronics governing the electronic shutter & the K2's dependence on batteries makes me a bit nervous. How well & how long does the electronics last? <br /> <br /> So guys, please help me out, I need to decide in 3 days..thanks in advance! <br /> <br /> -A guy who is desperately staving off GAS</p>

<p>Same here dan. I can't access the website too. What's up?</p>

<p>Thank you so much James! You should try some Velvia, it's fabulous. Makes me not want to shoot negatives ever again, haha. Of course, I havent' tried any other slide film before. I read that Velvia produces very vivid and saturated colors, so much so that it's almost cartoonish. It seems to hold true. But it costs quite a lot to get it processed here in Malaysia..approx $10 just to process it and get it sleeved (not mounted)...whereas processing a roll of C41 film here just costs $1! Then again, it's all relative..10 bucks to get a roll of slides processed is perhaps considered cheap where you are. Anyway, it's good to see another person who has and loves the Nettar..awesome cameras, aren't they? I'll look up the thread you posted, I believe I missed it. Thanks again for the visit & comment James.</p>

<p><img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/4-1edCustom.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/5-1ed.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi all. Just would like to share some shots from my 1st roll of slide film that I shot this past weekend. Location is the old railway station situated right in the heart of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. It has a very unique architecture, influenced by Islamic and also Moorish elements. The station was completed in 1910 and it has been shot to death by generations of Malaysian photographers. It was my 1st time shooting film there though.</p>

<p>Film was Fuji Velvia 100 and the camera I used was a Zeiss Ikon Nettar 517/16 with a Novar Anastigmat 75mm f/6.3 lens. Seeing the film when I got it back from the lab, I was hooked! 6 out of 12 frames had severe lightleaks (long story short: film loading troubles, operator error), but nevertheless, I'm happy! Just holding up the film against a bright light filled me with wonder, I felt like a little kid again. Now I know I'll be shooting slides more often from now on...I already have a roll of Agfa CT Precisia and have 2 rolls of Astia & Sensia on the way to me. :)</p>

<p>Now, regarding the camera. I'm sure most of you are familiar with this baby, especially Stephanie Maks (thanks for all your help!). There are several shots with severe vignetting at the corners, but I read somewhere that this is per normal with some Novar lenses on Nettars. I kind of like it. Compared to another folder that I have, the Voigtlander Perkeo I, the Nettar is somewhat limited, with the slow lens and limited shutter speeds. Plus, the Perkeo I that I have (with Vaskar lens) is vignette free. However, I think I like using the Nettar more, for whatever reason. :) Focusing was done via the use of a Telex accessory rangefinder (similar to Mr. Meluso's, but white-faced instead of black)...I can't guesstimate distances if my life depended on it!</p>

<p>All of the following photos were scanned using Canon Canoscan 8800f. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did. Comments are welcomed and much appreciated. :)</p>

<p>P.S: A page on the webs says the Nettar were produced from the 30's until the 50's. Can anyone pinpoint exactly when was the 517/16 manufactured?</p>

<p><img src="http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc90/daniirwan/2edres.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Stephanie, Prof K & J. Liberty: Thanks for all your responses, very much appreciated.</p>

<p>Stephanie: I've tried what you suggested (pulling out the metal tabs), but mine is very stiff indeed and I don't think they'll have much affect any which way I pull it. Nevertheless, I'll keep what you said in mind and try to load the film after I've pulled out the tabs a bit.</p>

<p>Prof.K: Good idea..I'll keep my fingers on the supply side film when I load this baby up next time. Another thing, in retrospect, I vaguely remember pulling way too much backing paper/film when I was loading this roll, so that when I inserted the tab into the take up spool's slot, I ended up having film sorta like bulging out in the middle just directly behind the bellows and lens, although I did take up the slack via the advance knob before I closed the camera's back. This could be what I did wrong I think. Also, it is my opinion that the 517/16 Nettar just wants to be pampered a bit...you know, cautious film loading, very slow film advancing, etc etc. That's what I'd do next time :D</p>

<p>J. Liberty: I did what you suggested. My sacrificial film was a roll of Lucky SHD 120 (couldn't even use with any of my red-windowed cameras because I can't see the numbers and markings on the backing paper). I loaded it up slowly, making sure everything was winding on straight & tight, closed the camera back, advanced it till the end and voila! The film seemed to be winded on tightly on the take up spool. :) </p>

<p>Thanks so much again!</p>