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eric_pelve

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Posts posted by eric_pelve

  1. <p>Hello Mike: I agree with you that Digital cameras do not have the film look and you would have to do some post processing to imitate the film look, just as we do it in video to mimic cinema look (desaturate colors, add noise or grain, soften slightly...).<br>

    I believe that for nature/landscape photography which is my favorite field, digital gives much more flexibility and ultimately performs better than film, and not just in resolution: think about expanding dynamic range beyond the 14EV range of the D800E using HDR, or expanding Depth of field using focus stacking, increasing resolution using Panorama stitching, increasing or decreasing contrast and softness in post vs using screw in filters in lenses etc...<br>

    For portraiture, which is the example you mentioned, the medium format sensor and Mamiya lenses excel for their smooth gradation tones, lack of harsh contrast and let's say it the size of the sensor helps very much like portraits done on FF cameras look better than those done on DX cameras. Also the film rendering beautifies the skin tones.<br>

    This is where analog has still an edge over digital, like high end audio tubes have more warm musicality than digital electronics. But here your are talking to an exclusive club where less than 1% of people will notice the difference without proper training/education of the eye (or ear)....<br>

    Here is below a portrait I took with the D800E and a Mamiya APO 200mm f/2.8 lens mounted on it. I think that it does not have such a strong digital look. the differences between film and digital - even in the area of portraiture in medium format - is narrowing.</p><div>00bMiM-520625584.jpg.5d9ebb7b0b77c60fa1d9fb9b93d9add0.jpg</div>

  2. <p>I used to own a Mamiya 645 Pro and loved my Mamiya lenses. Progress on resolution and convenience of digital made me sell my entire Mamiya system so I could capture magic moments with a lighter bag in those National Parks.<br>

    With the coming of the D800E and D800 (I own both) I rediscovered the quality of Medium format (I will not go into a technical comparative of specification numbers as I am only interested in the visual results). The focusing challenge of the D800/D800E requires again Medium format techniques:<br>

    - tripod, mirror lock-up, remote trigger to avoid micro vibrations<br>

    - super quality lenses to match the resolution: I use some Nikon primes, Leica and Zeiss ZF lenses<br>

    - magnification of viewfinder: I use a hoodman loupe on rear LCD display and the magnify button of the camera to focus at 100% magnification<br>

    A twist of fate made me rediscover the enjoyment of using Mamiya lenses adapted on Nikon DSLR using a Fotodiox Pro adapter. I repurchased what I consider the very best lenses from Mamiya 645 format:<br>

    - Mamiya APO 200mm f/2.8, A 150mm f/2.8, Macro A 120mm f/4, 80mm f/2.8N, 55mm f/2.8N<br>

    I find that these lenses give a more subtle and continuous tone than the more modern contrasty digital lenses. Adding contrast to a photo capture with MF lens is easy in post but recreating the subtle pastel tones of nature from a digital era lens is not possible.<br>

    You can examine many samples of pictures taken with Mamiya lenses mounted on D800E. No regret at all selling film camera bodies and embracing digital world.<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/episa/sets/72157632712664606/</p>

    <p>This Stacked focus Macro photography of an orchid assembled from 27 digital photos taken with Mamiya A Macro 120/4 on Nikon D800E is a proof that digital allows us to go beyond the physical capability of film. And again, I am not interested in specification numbers being compared, I just judge the results.<br>

    Mamiya 645 Macro 120mm f4 on Nikon D800E - Stacking Focus (27 photos)

    <img src=" Mamiya 645 Macro 120mm f4 on Nikon D800E - Stacking Focus (27 photos) alt="" /></p>

    <div>00bM4r-520101584.jpg.6efff9e26ed3ccebff5cb4655f45c5f3.jpg</div>

  3. <p>90% of my photography is landscape and I am a nut in trying to get the sharpest images I can make and can afford. I recently switched from D700 to D800 and had to requalify which lenses can withstand the 36 Mpixels resolution of the D800.</p>

    <p>As of Today, my landscape lenses I carry with me in a trip are:<br>

    - Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AIS (aperture of f/5.6 or higher gives very good sharpness corner to corner)<br>

    - Voigtlander Ultron 40mm f/2 SLII (aperture of f/4 or higher gives excellent sharpness corner to corner)<br>

    - Voigtlander APO Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SLII (aperture of f/4 or higher gives excellent sharpness corner to corner)</p>

    <p>If I need a ultra wide lens (24mm or lower) I would take:<br>

    - Nikon AF-S 24mm f/1.4G if I need to use it for night photography as well<br>

    - Zeiss Distagon 21mm f/2.8 ZF if I do daylight landscape and need absolute sharpness regardless of weight<br>

    - Nikkor 20mm f/2.8 AIS or 24mm f/2.8 AIS if I do daylight photography and need to travel light (but then I need to close the lens at f/8 to have very good sharpness corner to corner)</p>

    <p>I own the Excellent/Superb Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G but never use it for landscape: totally impractical, heavy and no easy filter mount. I use this lens for other applications (building interiors, home parties, exaggerated perspective...)</p>

    <p>My landscape photos can be seen on flickr:<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/episa/</p>

     

  4. <p>I happen to own and use most of the photo gear mentioned in the first posting (D7000, Nikkors AF 17-50 f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, Sony NEX5-N with kit lens 18-55mm OSS) and will share my opinion to contribute to this thread.<br>

    The discussion if I understand is about the pro/cons of a "simpler and compact" NEX5-N vs a more "sophisticated/flexible" D7000/D5100 DSLR.<br>

    In light of all the opinions, often diverse and contradictory that you can read in the various forums, on this very topic, it is important to understand what kind of photographer is giving his opinion (I mean what type of photos he does). This is actually a key point that will allow you to filter correctly the responses and use only those that are relevant to your needs.<br>

    So I will start by saying that - to oversimplify - there are 2 kinds of photographers: the family/kids/birthday parties type of photographer and the advanced amateur/pro type of photographer (Remember that I oversimplify on purpose).<br>

    The first kind is looking for ease of use, compactness and simplicity. Autofocus is key for this person as one of the key enjoyment for him/her it to capture the children playing or the family having fun. Usually this person has no desire to grow "its photographic system" and will likely just buy another camera many years later. For this type of photographer The D7000 is to big and too over-engineered for its use (mainly Program mode, all automatic with AF of course). He would be overpaying for all the other great benefits of the D7000 that are useless to him: non-CPU lens programming for AIS compatible lenses, GPS port to tag coordinates on EXIF file, motorized bracketing mode combination, and all the other gazillions of customization possible of the camera. The Nikon D5100 is smaller than the D7000 and gets closer to the compactness expected by the user. It remains however a sophisticated system by design: the DSLR design requires a pentaprism and mirror that increases complexity in the camera and associated disadvantages for an amateur who likes to use its camera also for video: cannot see video image without raising the mirror (live view mode) often limited in time due to overheating of the sensor mainly designed for photos. Inability to view video images or review them in the optical viewfinder: in harsh sunlight teviewing its images on the LCD screen is not easy.<br>

    The NEX5-N solves most of the problems of the family photographers I mentioned above: Great (optional) Electronic viewfinder (EVF) that makes it easier to take and review images in full sunlight, native and natural video mode, compactness and simple all automatic everything. But these advantages require that the user stick with Sony E mount lenses to beneft of Autofocus with optical stabilization, distortion and aberrations correction of the Sony lenses. As soon as one tries to mount other brand lenses via adapters (Nikon, voigtlander, Leica, etc...) this becomes the area of the advanced amateur/pro with plenty of issues that the family phorographer could not live with: loss of autofocus, need to correct distortions and aberrations, magenta cast of some lenses in post processing, lack of complete exif information, loss of optical stabilization and need to either change manually ISO or use of tripod in low light situations....<br>

    Let's talk about the second kid of photographer now: the advanced amateur or pro always interested to experiement with ddifferent lenses, focal length, take control of the camera decisions, or achieve a very specific effect: select focus, isolation of foreground with blurred background, use of special filters such as polarizer or ND for long exposures, use of 2 stop bracketing function for post processing HDR rendering, precise panoramas from 5 vertical shots stiched, use of teleconverter or Macro lenses or accessories, fast moving sport...<br>

    In the above situation the DSLR seems to be the better choice but it is not black and white depending on the type of performance the photographer is looking for:<br>

    - for fast moving sport: no brainer the DSLR with large aperture AF lens is superior but you need a high end capable body (D7000 is OK for DX format)<br>

    - for extreme macro photography using accessories such as extension tubes, reverse lenses... the DSLR is the choice<br>

    - for use of the sharpest manual focus lenses from other manufacturers (Zeiss, leica, Voigtlander), here again it is not black and white. The D5100 will not be able to let the user program the focal length and largest aperture of the lens for complete and correct exif file: also i believe that it ill not even accept AIS type of lenses. On the other end the D7000 will do. Likewise, the NEX5-N has no menu function to allow to program this data but will still accept via mechanical adapter any lens with F mout bayonetvor Leica M bayonet. This very last feature is the one reason many pro photographer are interested in the NEX5-N. These people are usually striving to achieve the sharpest photos with their collection of Leica type lenses or Nikon primes. There the NEX5-N becomes actually vey sophisticated for them because of the performance in Sharpness and high ISO (3200 ISO photos are better than with Nikon D7000!). For these users who may own a Leica M camera, some technical features of the NEX-N becomes appealing because it solves a long time issue they learn to tolerate on their rangefinders camera for example: difficulty to focus with long focal length lenses vs ease of NEX5-N with peaking function, inability to see the full frame in viewfinder whe using wide angle lenses, magenta cast that need to be corrected with some wide angle lenses. All of these issues are solved very well with the NEX5-N. But it is not all that simple: there are a few drawbacks with the NEX5-N for the pro photographer: no remote trigger connection for long poses or vibration less triggering, no possibility to have exposure bracketing value larger than 0.7 EV, etc.....just to name a few. If compactness is not critical then the spohisticated DSLR still reigns (D700).<br>

    I belong to the second category of photographer and my motivation to get the NEX5-N was to use it as my second lighter body without compromise on lens quality (I do landscape/nature photography mainly).<br>

    I have posted many photos taken with various lenses on the NEX5-N, even compared them. For those interested in NEX7 vs NEX5-N make sure ti read the thread below my photo here:<br>

    Autumn walk in the Park - NEX5-N with Leica lens

    <p> </p><div>00ZYoy-412509684.jpg.2445501bdf385d5c5de40a471d958de5.jpg</div>

  5. <p>I realize that nobody has posted a testimonial or actual picture taken with this Voigtlander APO Lanthar 90mm SLII lens. I searched a lot on forums similar feedback but could find very few even as late as August 2010 - several months after it was available commercially. I purchased one yesterday as I wanted a compact travel lens. I already have the gorgeous Carl Zeiss 100mm f/2 makro-planar, but I often left it at home when I wanted to travel light. I was also interested in getting a APO lens as the Zeiss does show clear purple fringes in high contrast situation.<br>

    I cannot say that I had the time to test it thoroughly on tripod and make comparisons yet. I just snapped it on my Nikon D700 and took some handheld pictures. I must say that I am already impressed by two points:<br>

    - Extreme sharpness<br>

    - brilliant (iridescent type) colors</p>

    <p>It is a compact lens with 52mm thread for filters and it has the chip that transfers automatically the lens information to the camera body into the exif information (I do not have to set-up this parameter in the non-CPU lens menu of my D700 anymore, as I was doing it with my Zeiss ZF lenses). The Zeiss ZF.2 lenses have the chip as well now.</p><div>00XAkI-274137584.jpg.288015b36249033c19e5ab8279693a91.jpg</div>

  6. <p>I purchased a Telyt 350mm f/4.8 and am learning how to use it on my D700. It has a long throw when focusing and it is very delicate to focus accurately/ When focus is right, it is very sharp and contrast is magnificent in most sitations.<br>

    I did some comparisons with my Leica Elmarit 180mm APO with Extender APO 2X.<br>

    Comments can be found at this link:<br>

    Shoot-out : Leica 180mm Elmarit APO + Extender APO 2X vs Telyt 350mm

    <div>00W8he-233713584.jpg.b4651cb793bf7eeb71aa5d0e780825ba.jpg</div>

  7. <p>I really like the Canon S90 for what it is: an excellent compact camera with a sensor above the average of all compact of this size. If I want more sharpness I use my D700 and Leica or Zeiss lenses. The Canon S90 is always in my vest or pant pocket (it is that small!) and the manual controls makes this tool a pleasure to work with if you want to keep control of all parameters. The Automated mode works very well and I love the front click ring that allows you to use it naturally like the aperture ring of a SLR lens. The thumb wheel in the back is both a great idea but a bad implementation. Although it is great to make it so simple to change EV values or other settings, the w<br>

    heel unfortunately is a "loose canon" that can spoil your shots if you did not pay attention with your fingers/thumb. The aperture at f/2.0 is plenty bright but the lens is sharp only at 5.6 and above. Unless you have already prime lenses and s DSLR, the Canon S90 is still the best compact camera out there: until 800 ISO you will be able to make amazing shots even at night.<br>

    Here are a few of the shots I took with this camera during holidays or in every day life when I do not have my reflex.<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/episa/sets/72157623107252316/</p>

    <p>episa</p><div>00W7Bj-232937584.jpg.b552100d072a571c4c4f41bb8af78b02.jpg</div>

  8. <p>I was looking for a similar solution to my problem: I wanted to mount all my Nikon bodies and long lenses already equipped with Arca Swiss Plates (Kirk Enterprise) to a Bogen/Manfrotto quick release head (in my case a video tripod head equipped with a RC-2 type quick release clamp that uses 3157 quick release plates.<br /> I can tell you that there is a commercially available off the shelf solution from Kirk Enterprise. They custom make all kinds of adapters for most common Manfroto and other brands.<br /> Here is the link<br /> http://www.kirkphoto.com/Specialty_QRC_List.html<br /> I ordered the first one on their lisst called<br /> <strong><a href="http://www.kirkphoto.com/SQRC-3157_Manfrotto_3157_Quick_Release_Clamp.html"><strong>SQRC-3157 Manfrotto 3157 Quick Release Clamp</strong> </a> </strong> <br /> <br /> It is expensive ($130) but you do not have to mess with manual work if you are not a handy man as I am.<br /> Hope this will help other people with similar needs.<strong><strong></strong> </strong> <br /> <strong><strong><br /> </strong> </strong> Good Luck<br /> episa<br /> <br /> <strong>http://www.flickriver.com/photos/episa/popular-interesting/</strong></p>

    <p><strong>http://www.flickr.com/photos/episa/</strong><br>

    <strong><br /> </strong><br>

    <strong><br /> </strong></p>

  9. <p>Alright: no posting since April 2009. Let's revitalize this thread. I have made many more pictures with the Voigtlander Nokton on my D700 and found out that it is slowly becoming my favorite do it all lens. If I must take with me only one lens I choose that one for the following opportunities:</p>

    <p>- concerts and other indoor venues with low light (f/1.4 and good colors rendering)<br>

    - night photography (Excellent choice with no match to produce clean deep blacks with D700 sensibility)t<br>

    - City street pictures (all around focal length)<br>

    - people portraits (for bokeh), even better with DX format like D300s<br>

    - Nature photography in full sunlight with circular polarizer (gorgeous saturated colors)</p>

    <p>The picture below is on of my favorite on flickr where you can see it at a better resolution:<br>

    Sailing near Arch Rock in Crete sea00UiJq-179457684.jpg.1b485ad6c906278343863178e838bd17.jpg</div>

  10. <p>Gosh! nobody has contributed since my last posting in April. I hope this thread on the Zeiss 21mm Distagon ZF is not dead as it is a great lens! I had time to play with that lens since that time on a Nikon D700 and test its full frame performance. I have to say that this lens remains sharp and consistent in the corners of a photo taken by a FX camera body.</p>

    <p>This picture below shows the excellent bokeh (quality of out of focus area) of the Zeiss 21mm Distagon ZF. I had a chance to compare it with the Nikon 14-24mm AF-S and must say that Nikon has succeeded to make an equally excellent lens in terms of pique/resolution. I have other ZF (35mm, 100mm) and Nikon lenses and have found that in general Nikon cannot match the Zeiss quality in Sharpness except for this incredible zoom 14-24 AF-S f/2.8.</p>

    <p>The question becomes then: Since the Nikon is equally good in resolution, why have the inconvenience of the fixed focal length of the Zeiss 21mm lens vs the flexibility and convenience of the autofocus Nikon 14-24mm AF-S? My answer is: for its lighter weight, capability to add a filter in front of the lens, its warmer color rendition and its pleasing bokeh.<br>

    I went recently on vacation 2 weeks in Crete and took the Nikon 14-24mm lens in my photobag. It turned out that I left it in the hotel room during the whole vacations due to its weight. The only time I use the Nikon lens the rest of the year is for indoor pictures of buildings and parties where flexibility of several focal length is needed.<br>

    Other pictures taken with Zeiss ZF lenses are available on flickr at the following link:<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/episa/sets/72157616954611534/<br>

    Good Day!</p><div>00UiJR-179453684.jpg.613f6fd3d112a80badcb464b12e45ad7.jpg</div>

  11. <p>All the comments on weight and filter sizes made above are valid for the person who wishes to travel light and in that case I would recommend the tiny Voigtlander Ultron that still surpasses the Nikon 35mm f/2.<br>

    But to the photographer searching for the absolute sharpness and stunning colors, the Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZF is the only answer well above the crop. It is sharp at f/2 on DX or FF sensors (I use it on both the D300 and the D700).<br>

    The most stricking difference in my eyes are the warm and vivid color rendering of the Zeiss optics as demonstrated in the picture below taken with D700 and Zeiss 35mm f/2 ZF at f5.6 1/200s ISO1250. The same picture taken with a Nikon AF 35mm f/2 would have produced dull colors with less graduation between the dark blue magenta / orange / yellow / red colors....<br>

    In my case I was willing to pay the price and the weight of the lens for that quality. If you are interested in seeing other examples of pictures taken with Zeiss ZF lenses, you will find some on my flickr portfolio "World of Zeiss"at the following link:<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37067061@N05/sets/72157616954611534/<br>

    I happen to have the 21mm, 35mm, 100mm ZF lenses which have all the same consistent color tones and 3D rendering.<br>

    P.S. I am not an unconditional Zeiss. I happen to love my Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4 and Nikkor AF 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF VR II which are absolutely stunning. For a balance view on the Zeiss, I would mention as a negative the lack of a chip as on the voigtlanders SLII which helps the body recognize the focal length and largest aperture of that Zeiss lens. You have to program it on your D300 or D700 on "other non CPU lens" menu and not forget to activate it every time you change lenses (a real pain in the butt but I am still willing to take that abuse for the quality).</p><div>00TaMC-141751584.jpg.989e99d09e8f6d41453cd65830d4f470.jpg</div>

  12. <p>The Zeiss 35mm ZF is indeed contrasty and amazingly sharp. Its most noticeable characteristic like other Zeiss ZF lens is that it offers some warmer tone pictures, as if they were glowing like the photo below.It reminds me of the time I was reviewing my Fuji Velvia slides on a lighbox with a loupe and I remember the WOW effect everytime....</p>

    <p>I do not have the Voigtlander 40mm but the 58mm instead. The voigtlander 58mm Nokton is very sharp but the color although more vivids are more "metallic" in my opinion.</p><div>00TSpL-137763584.jpg.6bdbf069f55f80b625d7181794b8bd70.jpg</div>

  13. <p>I received my Nikon D700 body and it is indeed much easier to focus accurately with manual lenses of long focal lengths (80mm and above) compared with the Nikon D300.<br>

    Playing with the difficult to focus Leica 180mm f/2.8 APO Elmarit lens was a real pleasure with the D700, I could play with the zone of selective focus...</p>

    <div>00TJgV-133399584.jpg.9ea64c01eb302a3235e6b8ced56ab078.jpg</div>

  14. <p>For those who want to acquire prime lenses of highest quality but have a limited budget I would recommend the following investment order that can be spread across several months or years depending on your financial situation:<br /> 1) Voightlander Nokton 58mm f/1.4 (approx. $380 in the US) or Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 ZF if can afford<br /> 2) Zeiss 35mm ZF f/2.0 (approx. $700 in the US)<br /> 3) Zeiss 100mm ZF f/2.0 (approx $1600 in the US)<br /> 4) Zeiss 21mm ZF f/2.8 (approx $1650 in the US)</p>

    <p>There are no Zeiss ZF or Voigtlander SLII lenses above 100mm at this point. So those who look for a good 180mm lens will have to settle for the Nikon 180mm AF f/2.8 or start looking into very expensive alternatives outperforming the Nikon: Leica 180mm APO Telyt f/3.5 or better the Leica Elmarit 180mm f/2.8 APO.<br /> One key learning from these lenses (I have them all): it is very difficult to get good focus all the time with the manual focus lenses with focal length above 100mm. I miss 10-20% of my shot with the Leica Elmarit 180mm F/2.8 APO, due to front or rear focus results even when using the green light indicator in the viewfinder..... It is particular painful to use Nikon D300 where the odds to get a sharp picture on the right plane drops to 60-70%. This situation improves with the better Nikon D700 body.<br /> No such situations with lenses of focal length lower than 100mm due to larger depth of field</p>

    <p>Good luck...<br /> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37067061@N05/</p><div>00TJEV-133147584.jpg.da6609773e955d013970434c135a8d43.jpg</div>

  15. <p>I have been using Nikon lenses semi professionally for more than 15 years and think highly of Nikkor glasses. My top choices are the Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4, Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 AF-S ED-IF VR, and the only zoom that qualifies as a top notch performer: 14-24mm f/2.8 AF-S.<br>

    That being said, in my search for absolute sharpness and contrast I found that Nikon prime lenses (20mm, 50mm ,etc...) are not to the level of Leica and Zeiss prime lenses adapted to work on Nikon bodies (Leitax adapter for Leica lenses and ZF line for Zeiss lenses).<br>

    I recently switched to Zeiss lenses on my Nikon D300 and D700 and will not look back at Nikkor lenses until they invest time and money to improve their prime lenses. They spend much time and money investing in all kind of zoom lenses for commercial reasons and the niche photographers like me were forced to looked at other brands. <br>

    Yes it is worth the hassle to loose AF and lens identification when using the Zeiss ZF lenses, just for the pleasure you experience when magnifying that shot 100% and still see these sharp details that would be long gone with the Nikkor AF 20mm or 28mm or 50mm and certainly the 70-200mm VR. I was very proud of that Nikkor zoom lens until I tried the Leica 180mm APO: what a mistake I did! I could not stand the comparison and the weight. I decided to loose the flexibility of the zoom against the absolute sharpness and color of the Leica APO lens, and sold back the Nikkor. If there is one Nikkor lens I would still dream to have it would be the 200mm F/2.0 AF-S VR.<br>

    So far the prime MF lenses I like the most for their great resolution: Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 ZF, 35mm /f2.0 ZF, 100mm f/2.0 ZF, Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f/1.4, Leica Elmarit 180mm f/2.8 APO<br>

    Photos using all these lenses are available at the link below at larger resolution than I can post on this thread.<br>

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37067061@N05/</p>

    <div>00TGHv-131671584.jpg.bafc9cc5a50b21cef012907bd569764c.jpg</div>

  16. <p>I realize that this thread is quite old now. I received my Zeiss 100mm Makro-Planar ZF recently and must confirm all the good reviews and reputation of that lens. The sharpness of this lens is exceptional at all apertures and is actually superior to the capability of my Nikon D700 to discriminate.<br /> I can see why this would be an excellent macro lens (planar design + sharpness at small apertures as well). It is also an excellent portrait lens due to the creamy bokeh and the warm tone of Zeiss colors.<br /> One point of caution though for Nikon users: for focal lengths 100mm and above, using the green dot in the viewfinder to focus is not reliable on the D300 at all. It is good on the D700 however. I have both cameras and could see the difference: 30% of my photos are unsharp with D300 using the green dot. This ratio drops to less than 5% maybe with the D700. In my opinion a prism is necessary on the D300 but not on the D700 as the clear and large viewfinder is a great focusing glass.<br /> Last finding for the moment: The Zeiss 100mm ZF is a great lens for landscape as the colors will be vivid and will pop literally! especially the green colors. I used to put my camera setting on Vivid and accentuate one notch with Nikon lenses. It is too much with this Zeiss lens! I had to dial down my color settings, and the sharpening camera setting as well. This lens outperforms so much that using the default compensation for other lenses will make you over-reach.<br /> A nice problem to have indeed.<br /> The picture below was taken to show the great resolution of that lens. Unfortunately the limit of the file size to post on this forum (100kb) does not allow to see the details.<br /> My portfolio link below will allow you to see a 1650x1050 pixels size file if you click on the photo and chose the option all sizes on top of the picture.<br /> http://www.flickr.com/photos/37067061@N05/</p><div>00TGFe-131639584.jpg.5cb24a124ad4bc2f956d526c3babc30c.jpg</div>
  17. <p>I realize that this threas is quite old now. I received my Zeiss 100mm ZF recently and must confirm all the good reviews and reputation of that lens. The sharpness of this lens is exceptional at all apertures and is actually superior to the capability of my Nikon D700 to discriminate.<br>

    I can see why this would be an excellent marco lens (planar design + sharpness at small apertures as well). It is also an excellent portraint lens due to the creamy bokeh and the warm tone of Zeiss colors.<br>

    One point of caution though for Nikon users:For focal length 100mm and above, using the green dot in the viewfinder to focus is not reliable on the D300 at all. It is good on the D700 however. I have both cameras and could see the difference: 30% of my photos are unsharp with D300 using the green dot. This ratio drops to less than 5% maybe with the D700. In my opinion a prism is necessary on the D300 but not on the D700 as the clear and large viewfinder is a great focusing glass.<br>

    Last finding for the moment: The Zeiss 100mm ZF is a great lens for landscape as the colors will be vivid and will pop literally! especiaslly the green colors. I used to put my camera setting on Vivid and accentuate one notch with Nikon lenses. It is too much with this Zeiss lens! I had to dial down my color settings, and the sharpening camera setting as well. This lens outperforms so much that using the default compensation for other lenses will make you overeach.<br>

    A nice problem to have indeed.</p>

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