donald_brosnan

<p>I am considering buying a new monitor for digital photography processing. I have an NEC MultiSync that is a few years old (LCD 2690WUXi)<br>

My question is simply whether the difference between the PA271W-BK-SV and the same without the SV is worth the $500 or so difference. Can't you get the Spectra View calibration software for less than that, if that's the only difference? And is there that much a difference between calibrating with that and the Spyder / XiRite less expensive products.<br>

I have seen topics tangentially similar to this discussed in other posts, but not this one exactly, so please forgive me if I have overlooked an accessible answer to this exact question.<br>

Thanks in advance for reading this.<br>

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<p>*******Clarification from Original Poster: Hands on Help Sought (not links, views, etc.)********<br>

I realize my post may have left a bit of doubt. <br>

Thank you for the various views on alternative hardware and software, but just to be clear, I have already shelled out the dollars for a fairly good RRS setup, and what I am looking for, rather than thoughts, is someone in the local Austin area who might be interested in offering hands-on tutoring type help, for an appropriate hourly fee, just to help get me comfortable with using the rails, different lenses with different cameras, etc.. My mention of the alternative hardware (Kirk, e.g.) was just to indicate that someone whose experience was with another kind of rail-type hardware might be able to have some useful guidance using the RRS setup.<br>

I just find the physical task of the rail handling, mounting, etc. a little intimidating and the presence of someone to walk me through it would be very reassuring. I apologize if that seems a little inept of me :)<br>

The use I want to make of the set-up I can explain to anyone who might be interested in helping out -- but I am not sure how one exchanges contact information on these forums in case anyone is interested in that.<br>

Is it kosher to put one's personal e-mail or phone contact info in one of these posts? I would be happy to do that for anyone who was interested in contacting me.<br>

Thank you all again.</p>

<p>It is a long shot, but I am an amateur photographer seeking help on using a set-up (e.g., the rail system from Really Right Stuff or Kirk) to take panoramic 35mm shots using a stitching technique.<br>

It would be even better to find someone to guide me through working with such a system with an MF camera.<br>

Before I get to learning the software, I am hoping I can find someone in the area, who has hands-on experience with this kind of equipment, who might be willing to do a little tutoring for a reasonable fee TBD e.g., how you use the rails to find the "nodal point,"etc. -- just the knack of workiing with lenses of different lengths, etc. with these complicated rail components.It is a really specialized need I suppose but it would be great to find a knowledgeable person.</p>

<p>I am still learning how to use my Hass 503CWD. Reading the official Hass manual more carefully, I see the mechnism provided for the analog of the "mirror lockup" function in 35mm DSLRs is using the "pre-release" lever on the side. <br>

Is it possible to use this when you are using the infrared remote release CW battery powered winder?<br>

I guess an implicit subsidiary question would be how important it would be to take the mirror lockup precaution in shooting landscapes with the potential of larger prints.<br>

I apologize if this is a silly question. I did try to use the search engine on here to see if it had been covered.<br>

Thank you in advance</p>

<p>I could not find a "digital back" or "Phase One" subcategory, so, apologies if this is not the correct area.<br>

I am interested in acquiring a used P25+ for a Hasselblad Series V body.<br>

This is not a "WTB" post: I am interested in experiences readers have had acquiring an item like this from different sources (pro stores, eBay, etc.) and if anyone has anecdotes or caveats about the process.<br>

Thanks much in advance.</p>

<p>This may seem like a strange or naive question.<br>

I rented a d3x, and used very good capture techniques.<br>

I was bothered by what seemed to me to be somewhat more intrusive AA filter impact than my d90, and way more than my Hasselblad 503CWD.<br>

I realize you can develop expertise overcoming this by careful sharpening routines and there is a great book on this by Fraser.<br>

My question is? I wonder why I should bother?<br>

Is it possible that the AA effects would be less noticeable if my "Nikon Step Up" were to the "full frame but lower pixel" Nikon models like the d3, d3s, or d700 instead of the d3x??? soemthing about the d3x I just didn't like the feel of. And according to the Lloyd Chambers website, the bigger photosites often produce better image quality.<br>

Reading the Fraser book, which is a lovely book, it seems perverse that for someone who would shoot landscapes and not have the typical patterned textile moiré issues, I have to devote large amounts of learining and processing time to "fixing" the "fix" of the strong AA filter in the d3x.<br>

Am I crazy (feel free to say I am crazy and ill-informed, it is not unlikely I am both !)<br>

Thanks in advance</p>

<p>This may seem like a strange or naive question.<br>

I rented a d3x, and used very good capture techniques.<br>

I was bothered by what seemed to me to be somewhat more intrusive AA filter impact than my d90, and way more than my Hasselblad 503CWD.<br>

I realize you can develop expertise overcoming this by careful sharpening routines and there is a great book on this by Fraser.<br>

My question is? I wonder why I should bother?<br>

Is it possible that the AA effects would be less noticeable if my "Nikon Step Up" were to the "full frame but lower pixel" Nikon models like the d3, d3s, or d700 instead of the d3x??? soemthing about the d3x I just didn't like the feel of. And according to the Lloyd Chambers website, the bigger photosites often produce better image quality.<br>

Reading the Fraser book, which is a lovely book, it seems perverse that for someone who would shoot landscapes and not have the typical patterned textile moiré issues, I have to devote large amounts of learining and processing time to "fixing" the "fix" of the strong AA filter in the d3x.<br>

Am I crazy (feel free to say I am crazy and ill-informed, it is not unlikely I am both !)<br>

Thanks in advance</p>

<p>Edward -- thanks for such an informative answer. I will have to look into "accutancy" a concept I had not known about. <br>

Since I bought the 503CWD with the CFV back, given your last paragraph of comments, I was wondering if 22MP or 40-60MP backs might be available for this camera. I am sure it will be quite a while before I could afford one of these. I know there is a company whose name begins with a P (PhotoOne? or something like that) that makes a wide variety of back but they are super-expensive, it seems way more than the CFV in the gently used deal I got recently for the 503CWD. Since your post was so informative, if there are other print or online resources you know of that would be informative to check out in getting the most from this camera love to learn about them. Of course I will keep my eye on forums here, and there is a Hasselblad users' forum connected with the Flicker wiebsite I believe as well. Thanks again.</p>

<p>I should have added: I don't think I am bothered by the weight of the zoom. I don't travel on airplanes with it, and have a very sturdy tripod setup, and don't back-pack with it (but who knwos maybe one day I will get into shape and be trying this).<br>

Again this is naive, but this variogon MC series for 1700 bucks seems to offer an irresistible value over serparate Sonnar 150 and 250 lenses. But...this whole question is predicated on the idea that I don't really feel all that sure I know what I am talking about ! :)</p>

<p>After reading all the very interesting posts (interesting in that they have a wide range of different kinds of info, as well as rhetorical takes) I am embarrassed to ask:<br>

What is an Anorak?<br>

What is a fanboy ?<br>

(I know I have been buried in old media way too long . . . . :)</p>

<p>Advance apologies for naivete: if anyone who reades this as suggestions for reading for self-education on related topics (beyond the Wildi sp? book) I would also be very grateful, to spare additional bandwidth.<br>

I recently got what I thought was a great deal on a very lightly used 503 CWD on eBay.<br>

This was maybe a somewhat impetuous purpose. I am a beginner to digital imaging (though having been an amateur film, mainly Kodachrome slide and Panatomic B&W 35mm user, many many years ago) struggling to learn his Nikon D90, photo editing software etc.<br>

However, I read a review in a seemingly knowledgeable blog about the 503CWD that seduced me into making the purchase:<br>

http://diglloyd.com/diglloyd/free/Hasselblad503CWD/index.html</p>

<p>anyhoo...it is about to arrive this week, and I am considering buying an additional lens.<br>

Is there an explanation that a relative simpleton (me) could understand about choosing between, say, something labelled on eBay as a: </p>

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<p >Hasselblad 140-280mm f/5.6 C Variogon SYNCHRO-COMPUR Lens (available for say around $2800) versus something described as a "HASSELBLAD SCHNEIDER VARIOGON MC 140-280MM" (available for about $1000 less)?</p>

<p >I am assuming the manufacturer identification (schneider vs. I assume Zeiss?) might be relevant.</p>

<p >However, there might be other elements to the value proposition I am not thinking of.</p>

<p >BTW, in the otherwise enthusiastic blog discussion of the 503CWD, somewhere the author says some pretty negative things about the 80mm Zeiss lens that came with the original 503CWD package (not the re-incarnated 503CWDII, which has a different lens).</p>

<p >I thank in advance anyone's patience for reading this newbie's post, and, as I said, I am happy to get busy with diligent self-educatio on anything that will help me with either the technical or esthetic challenges of using this new (gently used) camera effectively.</p>

<p >Oh and one last question: in the blog in question the author suggests that the large photosites of the 503CWD, notwithstanding the "only" 16MP, make it competitive or perhaps even superior to the way more expensive H series Hasselblads with 40MP but smaller photosites. I am not trying to open a Pandora's box with this question, but again from a newbie perspective, I wondered if anyone here had either any broad-brush personal perspective on that question, or suggestions for print or online further reading.</p>

<p >well, a longwinded post, so thanks again for your forbearance!</p>

<p >Don, newcomer</p>

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