nathan_spratt

<p>As far as light sticks go this is what I get my assistant to hold sometimes, I'm not one for holding sticks and photographing though, I need two hands on my camera.</p>

<p><img src="http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6426/dsc2183yd.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I shot with the d300 as a main and the d80 as a backup.<br>

The only time I majorly hit my camera was when my tripod was nocked over onto concrete from about 4 feet, camera was fine, lens took the damage.<br>

I have all full frame glass so I would have no problem switching to d3s or d700.<br>

I have been tempted to work with two cameras, a d300 and a d700, but my back is already sore enough after shooting with d300, mb-d10, 70-200, L-bracket, flash bracket, and flash. (Plus other lenses and batteries around my think tank belt)</p>

<p>Apparently mine only last just over a year. I bought my d300 last September, and now, after bringing it in for a bent pin I am thrown a repair bill of $1,023.23 for various apparent damages such as replacing the AF sensor, rear body replacement, mirror replacement, etc... I phoned them up to enquire and they told me that after my 123 something thousand shutter actuations (I shoot a lot of sports, weddings etc...) the camera usually needs to replace the af sensor and that I had a "big" crack near my usb port (I hadn't even noticed it before). </p>

<p>I am stuck with the delema over getting it repaired or getting a new Nikon d300s for around $1,550 (price Nikon offered me in exchange for me letting them keep my broken d300).</p>

<p>Suggestions? Thoughts? Would it be better value for me to go for a D3s (so I don't have to do this in another year) because I apparently bang my camera around too much?</p>

<p>After upgrading my firmware to v1.10, my images, after importing to Lightroom 2, have stopped being automatically rotated for my vertical shots. I have looked up everything I can find for regarding settings in the D300, and have not been able to resolve the issue. Does anyone have any suggestions?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Buy a large filter and use a step-down ring. No need for buying more than one filter for future filter size changes. All my filters are 77mm, I just step down as needed.</p>

<p>I dislike shiny screens for working on for long periods of time. However I find them to generally look better for movies etc... Monitor shades help sometimes if you have a light problem.</p>

<p>For events and weddings I usually shoot a compressed raw format. I do this because I find it much easier and faster to process files and white balance in Lightroom with the raw capabilities. Exposure adjustments look a lot better also.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Yes, It's true I won't always be carrying all of that all at once, I guess one bag can't do everything. I would also be of need for a pelican box or rolling case for travel (I was hoping to use the bag for carrying my gear for travel as well). The Lowepro SR 550 AW Fits most of my needs, accept for the non camera gear I've will need to take. I hope this helps give you an idea of what I need. I don't ever plan on shooting from the bag, I use a Think Tank belt system for shooting from.</p>

<p>First off, I'd like to say that I'm not really a huge fan of backpacks for shooting, but I recognize their advantages for carrying equipment to and from locations. For me, I am attending a photography school in September, and I need a good backpack to carrying my equipment to and from the school (about 45 min walking and busing time one way). Here are my needs for a backpack</p>

<p><strong>Camera Equipment:</strong><br>

2 pro sized bodies (Think D300/D700 + MB-D10s)<br>

70-200mm f/2.8<br>

24-70mm f/2.8<br>

14-24 f/2.8<br>

50mm f/1.8<br>

1.7x TCE 17 II<br>

Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod + head (medium sized pod)<br>

2 speedlites<br>

2 Pocketwizard transceivers<br>

Extra batteries / stuff (remote release, light meter, filters, etc..)</p>

<p><strong>Computer Equipment:</strong><br>

17"<strong> </strong> Laptop<br>

2.5" External HDD<br>

Mouse<br>

Watcom tablet (14"x10")<br>

Card Reader</p>

<p><strong>Other Stuff:</strong><br>

2" Standard binder<br>

Small lunch bag<br>

Pencils and pens<br>

Pelican 1200 Case<br>

Nalgene water bottle</p>

<p>There are so many backpacks out there I really have no idea where to start. Can help me with the right direction towards the right backpack for my needs?</p>

<p>Thank you very much!</p>

<p>I recently had to make this exact same decition a few weeks ago. I ended up going with the 24-70 on my D300. I am very happy with this lens, and I'm sure you will be too. It goes great with the 70-200.</p>

<p>Have you consitered using Genuine Fractals to help up-res from your sensor?</p>

<p>Someone kicked my tripod over onto a concrete sidewalk. It was about a 3 ft drop. It fell and hit the lens hood, but because of the way the hood is attached to the zooming mechanism the zoom internals snapped (along with a bunch of other stuff inside).</p>

<p>I wasn't that upset, because it was a very poor porforming lens anway, and I was trying to sell it at the time.</p>

<p>The only reason I added aperture ring as an advantage, is that I shoot timelapse as a hobby. The only thing I worry about the 17-55mm is that when I sell the thing I will loose a lot of money because no one will be using DX anymore (though that probably won't happen for at least 6 years so what do I have to worry?) Plus, selling is a hassle and who likes to spend the hours not getting paid trying to sell a lens.</p>

<p>I'm going to the store today to try out the lenses.</p>

<p>I have the lovely opportunity to purchase a new lens. I currently have been using a D300 and D70s. Eventually I know I will be shooting with a full frame camera (Nikon D3 or D4 most likely, depending on how soon I get to it). My Tokina 16-50mm lens broke on me, and I have been suffering with nothing wider than 50mm for long enough. I am leaning towards the 24-70mm f/2.8 because it should be more future proof and has lovely sharpness and build. Here are the options I have considered:<br>

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I shoot primary events, portraits and sports (importance in that order)<br>

<br /> <strong>24-70mm f/2.8</strong> <br /> <br /> <strong>Pros:</strong> <br /> Amazingly sharp<br /> Good zoom range on full frame<br /> Solid build<br /> Good portrait lens on DX<br /> <br /> <strong>Cons</strong> <br /> Not that wide on DX<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <strong>17-35mm f/2.8<br /> </strong> <br /> <strong>Pros</strong> <br /> Good wide angle on FX<br /> Medium zoom on DX<br /> Pro build<br /> Aperture ring (non G)<br /> <br /> <strong>Cons</strong> <br /> I heard its not as sharp as the 14-24 / 24-70mm lenses??<br /> Old design<br /> limited zoom range<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <strong>17-55mm f/2.8 DX</strong> <br /> <br /> <strong>Pros:</strong> <br /> Good zoom range on DX<br /> Sharp<br /> <br /> <strong>Cons:<br /> </strong> DX<br /> Future resale value<br /> Not future proof?</p>

<p>I would appreciate any suggestions and thoughts on these three lenses. I would highly preferr to get a full frame lens, so I'm pretty sure I won't be getting the 17-55mm... Maybe I should just try them out, but I'd like to get some thoughts from people who have had either or both.</p>

<p>Thanks again!</p>

<p>One thing that I find really frusterating with Lightroom 2.3, is that when you click "Edit in Photoshop CS4", do your edits, save the file, then go back into Lightroom, the the new file is saved at the end of the images. I would like to see lightroom stack these files, with the lightroom file underneith and the Photoshop edited one above.</p>

<p>Also, I find that Lightroom sometimes adds a duplicate drive when editing with Photoshop. It causes frusteration and loss of time.</p>

<p>One last idea I thought of was to have some way of integrating Photoshop actions with Lightroom, being able to easily edit the photos in Photoshop with out the hassle of having duplicates of every image, etc..</p>

<p>Maybe I need to buy a Lightroom book and figure out how lightroom works? I don't know.</p>

<p>Thanks all for the replys, sorry I didnt reply earlier. I shoot events several times per week and have been decided to upgrade to the EN-EL4 when I decide to upgrade to a single digit Nikon. Thanks to all your advice, I am picking up a wad of eneloops for flashes and my MB-D10 for the time being.</p>

<p>Thanks again,</p>

<p>Put the things you want Adobe to put in Lightroom 3.0 down here. This thread is just for fun.<br>

1. Distortion correction<br>

2. Ability to change the feather on the clone / heal brushes.</p>

<p>.... continue the list...</p>

<p>Hello. I have been searching for the best rechargeable AA batteries that will power my MB-D10 to give me 8 FPS, and will work with my SB-800 and 900 flashes. Is there such a thing? I have been using the non rechargeable alkaline batteries, but it is frustrating throwing out so many batteries, plus the long term investment in good rechargeable batteries would be worth it. I have tried several rechargeable batteries, but they tend to only give 6fps in my MB-D10, and I have heard of over heating issues in the SB-900 flash.<br /> <br /> <br /> Thank you,<br>

P.S. I am not sure if this is the correct category to place this, sorry if it is wrong!</p>

<p>I'd definitely have to say that the website is too wide. You should try for your website to fit in a 1280px wid monitor (1024 is much better).</p>

<p>To solve this problem, try implementing DIV tags that resize as the widow gets thinner, plus design your website more vertically.</p>