pasi_h_gg

<p>Ljubljana airport is safe and nice, located in the quiet countryside right along major traffic arteries. I would just fly there and rent a car. The major agencies are available and will serve you right with seasonal gear as well as advice regarding road conditions in remote areas and mountains. Nothing is very far in central europe, and at least the main roads are very good (many of them brand new). As anywhere, keep the car locked at all times and empty whenever possible. I don´t think you'll be short of photo opportunities.</p>

<p> </p>

I pretty much did your trip I a few years ago. I agree that 10 days is too little time for everything in Norway so you'll just have to

choose. I don't think you can really go wrong anywhere along the west coast. The drive from Trondheim to Bodö is a bit boring

although less difficult and slow than in the fjords.

The southern less inhabited and "more original" part of Lofoten is more to my taste. It could be worthwhile to save some time for

nature walks/tidepool watching/ maybe a boat trip depending the weather and your interests. The distances within the islands are not

that great. If You are interested in WWII history, Narvik is not that far away either...:-)

Just give Nikonscan a shot before buying anything else. Works for me.

Pasi

The availability of film is quite good in continental Europe, at least compared to the US cities I've visited lately. Maybe

some pnetter can confirm this regarding Spain. Might consider buying most of the film when you get there.

Well everyone knows where those come from so the swedes and the norsemen might as well concentrate fighting over some of their

original attractions, like sour herring or who has the most angry mosquitoes...:-P

Take the ferry !

Do try to include Lofoten in your trip, it's quite an extraordinary place. It'll save you a good bit of driving and give glimpse of local living

if you take a ferry from Bodö to the southern tip of the lofoten and then drive up from there. Don't miss the stockfish and fishing

museum in Å village.

Driving in Norway is safe and the roads are good but progress can be kind of slow, as you've been warned above. Norway is also

ridiculously expensive even compared to my country Finland, but the scenery is truly out of this world.

Have a great trip, you made a very good choice of destination.

Pasi

Casual photogaphy w/o tripod was no problem at Hoover dam at my last visit. That was before 9/11, though. What a

swell trip, I'm jealous.

Pasi

Hello,

Something specific in mind ? Much of Norway boasts stunning scenery so all you need is plenty of film or memory

cards ! You could try posting to local discussion groups for specific interests ( a few links below). Communication in

english goes a long way in scandinavia.

infoo.se/kat/kultur/fotografi/foreningar_och_sallskap (Sweden)

Www.kameraseura.fi (Finland)

Foto.no (Norway)

Regards,

Pasi

Well that's certainly nice to hear! Looking forward to some kind of processing for the first bw negs. It's a foggy winter

up here, makes for dull photos so I'm not expecting much.

Compliments for the beautiful images from your classic. The girl and the guitar is a very nice capture of a familiar

scene around my house as well. I truly hope something as fine will jump out of mine one of these days. Pasi

Well I'll be waiting for those photos! I still have to wait a while to find out what my own toy is capable of. I'm sort of

scared for the consequences of having a usable MF film camera...

As to age of the camera, I was led astray by the surprisingly modern look of the front end, quite different from most

I've seen so far. It's a Gauthier, not sure which, maybe a vario. Unfortunatedly the modest f7,7 lens is not date coded.

Pasi

<p>Hello,<br>

I finally found the serial number of my *new* Kodak Vollenda 620 in the back of the flipping support foot. Is there a site somewhere listing those ? Its #358043A<br>

I added a few naked camera photos to my previous post :)<br>

<a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00Y7CT">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Y7CT</a></p>

<p>Here's the camera, finally. My one and only and first MF and CMC so far. Note the absence of brilliant crystal viewfinder and the handy cover plate in the back :-) I ran a roll of HP5 through and developed with the Paterson. Looks ok with a lupe. Guess if I have a MF scanner ... It's going to be a pee-in-the-bucket-day for the family again !<br>

Its f7,7-22, shuttter times T,B, 25-100.<br>

Do you think it`s a post-WW example ?</p>

<p>Pasi</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

I'll try to post a picture when I get home. It's actually a front focusing f7,7 anastigmat, maybe a later/more affodable

model? A metal plate is provided for covering the film peek window.

Now how should I go about the 120 film markings. HP5 shoul have 19 numbers, maybe for 6x6? There's no

mechanical counter on the camera .

Pasi

Thank you for the pointers. Luckily the bellows are in a surprisingly soft state so closing is not a problem.I suppose

there's a tired spring somewhere as the open position is not at all rigid so it's a bit of a guess what the correct opening

length of the bellows system is. I think I'll just push it the framework against its stoppers and see what I'll get I got two

620 spools with the camera, so I'm off to see whether there's still a store around here that has 120 on their shelf!

Gábor: did you have to shorten the spool ends as well, or was it enough to trim the rims?

Pasi

Hi all,

I recently acquired a neat example of Kodak Vollenda 620 6x9 folder. It is in a nice condition with flawless bellows, clean anstigmat

10,5 cm f4,5 and the shutter times sound okay by ear. The only thing that I'm a little worried about is the right amount of opening of

the folding system. It clicks and locks open, but does not quite manage to fold back to rest on the claws of the locking mechanism so

there's room for movement both towards the closed position and/ or a more extended position.

So. Should I manually push it back against its rests (i.e the locking claws) or try to keep it as open as possible to achieve a

maximally extended posture with tight bellows and seemingly most parallele lens to film ?

Thanks for help,

Pasi

You may wish to consider covering the missing wide end with an 18-55. It's quite usable and available for next to nothing

either with the body or second hand. You'll also benefit from the experience if you decide to upgrade lenses later on.

Not exactly the experience  you asked for but here it comes anyway :-)

Having a few thousand slides and maybe twice that color negs, not to

mention a bunch of perfectly usable 35 mm bodies, I recently bit the

bullet and aqcuired a used coolscan V from ebay. Seems to work fine,

and to my surprise gives accurate color from the slides to my

uncalibrated laptop LCD, as judged by visual inspection on a light table

with a 14D lense. Talk about two or more wrongs making a right,

maybe :-) ??? (need to check that on a calibrated screen, though)

I couldn't justify a 5000 or 9000 and needed the negative ability as

well. I just hope it will last, cause for my budget there's very few viable

options.

Now here's the beef: just from a short experience I can strongly

recommend not to buy anything slower. It takes me an evening to

clean and scan a rack of slides with just the ICE at full res. I can live with that but anything slower would make me forget film for good. Of course, YMMV.

If you will, take a look at 45f2.8P for small size, metering and superior manual focus (with small hands) with any camera

body. It's a charm on the D80.