armando_yslas2

This camera has been sold. Thanks to everyone who had an interest.

Are these film shields still for sale? Can you give me an estimate for shipping to Zip 10031? Thank you

 

Regards

For Sale: Hasselblad 503cx with Zeiss 150mm f4 Sonnar. Black body comes with black A12 magazine, body cap, bubble level, standard waist level viewfinder, 45 degree viewfinder, 90 degree viewfinder (finders do not have meters.) Body is very clean with minimal signs of normal wear. Magazine has normal signs of wear serial numbers are matching. Finders show some wear but are clear.

 

Lens was recently CLAd by Hasselblad, optically clear without blemishes. Shutter is accurate. Comes with standard shade, pro shade, yellow filter, front cap, back cap.

 

Price: $1750

 

I will pay for shipping in the US. International buyers must pay for shipping to their destinations.

 

 

 

$15 for all seven? Whats the shipping to zip 10031?

The price for the SWC/M that I posted is $3700.

For sale a lovely Hasselblad SWC/M with the t* 38mm Biogon. Chrome body camera is in Exc+++ condition. Black lens is perfect-optically clear and with shutter working correctly. It was recently CLAd by Hasselblad. Comes with viewfinder and A12 magazine, lens shade and cap.I will pay postage in the USA- International buyers must pay for postage.

 

contact me directly if you want photos: ayslas@me.com

 

I had the same or similar problem with my SWC. I took it to the local Hasselblad repair shop and they replaced a spring in the cocking mechanism. They did a complete CLA as well. Not an arm and a leg but not dirt cheap either.

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Thanks! That's very useful. Mu camera is otherwise mint condition so I might get away for just a finger or two!

Help please. I have a hasselblad SWC/M that sometimes jams after the exposure. The shutter fires normally but then the wind knob is locked. If I remove the magazine I can push in the little pin that links the body with the magazine and it un-jams. The pin seems to get stuck but not always. I tried tripping the shutter a couple of dozen times to see if it just needed to be worked but it didn't seem to change the symptoms. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone know if this is going to cost me an arm and a leg to get repaired?

Near mint condition. All functions are smooth- no oil on blades all glass clear and unblemished. This lens has original factory 6 bit encoding. Glass is perfect and has always been covered with Leica E55 UV/IR filter (which I will include.) Comes with front and rear caps, box, leather case. Serial number 3875XXX

 

US inquiries only. I will pay for shipping via UPS (But only to US addresses. I will accept Bank check or Paypal.

 

If you are interested and would like to see photos please contact me and I will send you photos.

 

 

armando.yslas@gmail.com

Just curious--are you selling the SL body as well? I'm interested in purchasing that.

Two of my Rollei 3003 film magazines, after years of flawless performance, have

developed the same problem: after the 24th exposure, they stop working. Has anyone

encountered this problem? Any idea what could be causing it? Thanks in advance.

Did you ever get an answer to this problem? I had it on several of my magazines and finally dumped the camera. But am thinking of getting back into the system. Im worried that the mags will have the same issue as before.

Regards

Armando

Ray, My apologies for the very late reply...I have been using my M246 for nearly two years and am still very happy with the quality of the images. The camera gets great images from the lenses that I use (all Leica:) 21mm Super Elmar, 24mm Elmar, 35 'cron Asph, 50 'cron, 75mm Apo Asph 'cron, and 90mm Apo Asph 'cron. When I've done my part correctly (focus, holding the camera steady, etc.) the images are remarkably sharp and full toned. I do find that I have to watch the exposure of highlights because they can get blown out but find there is so much shadow detail that a little under exposure will keep the highlights manageable and still have open and detailed shadows. I will usually open the DNG file in photoshop and use the SilverEFX filter plugin to edit. I just like that user interface. Usually I'll brighten up the shadows and drop the highlights. Sometimes Ill apply "structure" to the mid tones to give me a bit more tonal separation. These edits are rarely more than just subtle tweeks. The really nice thing about working with these files is that there is so much information in the shadows-unlike in film where a thin negative was extremely difficult to work with.

When shooting I keep the ISO on "auto" and let the camera set the optimum. I limit the iso to 8000. but will occasionally go to 12000. At 8000 there is no noise at all and the image looks like it was shot on a very fine grained film with smooth, even, grain. Previously I had an m8 which had a lot of noise at the 8000 level and a smaller sensor. My only complaint is not having a lower iso available. I like to shoot with my lenses wide open and at iso 320 I sometimes have to use ND filters.

 

Regards

ay

<p>keep the 24-105 and buy the 70-200mm L f2.8 IS mark II.<br>

You will love that lens and especially the speed. Its a bit big but you will find that you will use it more often than not.</p>