mo_kenny

Reply:

Mainly to for printing some graphic and text for some brochures, but mostly for fine art photography.

However, after fiddling with the software, I was able to finally get it installed.

Unfortunately, the manual and the installation guide from Colorburst and Epson leaves a lot to be desired....

Thank you all for your responses.

MOK

The URL you provided is only for Mac operating system users, I use Windows business vista and on the web site, there are no updates for Window users. Again, any insight as to how to solve this problem is highly welcome.

Thanks

MOK

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I have Epson 4880 with bundled Colorburst RIP. My OS is Windows Vista

Business. I have tried to install the RIP on my computer (I have the latest version sent from Epson (ver 5.6) but it is

for Epson 4800. I have followed the instructions as detailed on the Epson web site without any luck. I am at a point

where I feel like I need to return the software and request for the extra money paid.

If anybody has any insight into how to get this to work, I will appreciate it.

Thank you

MOK

Thank you all for your insight. I have decided to lay off LF for a while and load up my contax G2 with Agfa scala film and immerse myself in a project.

Mo Kenny

Hi Everyone,

What is the best approach to conquer "photographers block" ?

I just notice that for some months now,after a successful local

exhibition, I just seem to have a mental block artistically speaking.

Kindly share your experiences.

Thanks

Mo Kenny

I am interested in the Microtek artixscan 4500T scanner for 4X5.

However, I have not seen any article or postings on real life

experience by anybody who has been using or used one before.

Futhermore, is it available for purchase anywhere in the US apart

from Europe.

I am travelling to Iowa city this weekend, can anybody give location

ideas good for large format photography ? (Landscape and found still

life.)

Also while on the subject, are there some LF photographers around

the same place to share ideas with ?. I will be relocating to Iowa

city in June.

Mo Kenny

The negative should be rated at ASA 25 OR 32 to be able to obtain a good negative.

The print of the polaroid is usually exposed at a higher ASA 50-80.

For contrasty situations, you can do pre-exposure. For more information, you can obtain from your local library the book "Polaroid Land photography" by Ansel Adams. Furthermore, you can go to the Polaroid web site and read the technical manual on the film.

Mo Kenny.

I use this film almost exclusively for my B&W shots (still life/Landscape). It is great for scaning. Excellent contrast and grain. T-max is also a great but the instant feedback from the polaroid is an advantage over the T-max. The drawback is the ISO of 25-32 for the polaroid negative which may not lend itself to things like potrait etc.

However, give it a try, you can buy a fairly outdated box (less than a year) and rent a 545 back and see if you like what you get. I bet you are going to be very impressed.

Mo Kenny

What would be the best way to present my portfolio to (colleagues at

work) /individuals who have shown interest in buying my photographs

without carrying my box of photos in an archival box all over the

place.

Can I have a brochure or postcard printed commercially to distribute ?

or to burn the images to a CD and distribute. Of course I am worried

about the images on the CD being copied, how then can I protect the

images short of putting very low resolution of the images on the CD

(this is self defeating since I want the prospective buyer to view

the images in their glory and beauty).

I will appreciate informed opinions please.

Thank you,

Mo Kenny

I will appreciate any help from this forum.

I plan to photograph a still life set up that will include a cup of

coffe with the steam rising from the cup.

My question is this, how can I generate the steam short of using

piping hot water. Is there a method of generating steam for

photographing that does not involve using hot water.

Mo Kenny

I am going to Virginia beach in Virginia from Michigan by road in a

few days.

Can anybody share with me areas of photographic interests?

(Landscape). Preferably in Virginia.

Mo Kenny

Hi Brian,

I have the same kind of scanner and i am able to use it with the scci

card/adapter.

Let me ask you some few questions in the hope that I will be able to

offer some solutions.

with the preview, make sure you select whether you are scanning

transparency (negative) or original(photo)

Note, if you it is black and white, you have to open the green

selector buttons to click on negative and then gray.

For colored negatives, it is self explanatory.

The next stage is prescan

final stage is the scan

At times the image may appear gray or soft. You can do the final

coorection in photoshop.

If you still need more help, you can contact me off the list using my

e-mail address.

Mo

Can anybody share their exprience(s) with me in the realm of making digital negatives for contact printing using inkjet printers.

I currently shoot 4x5 films.(T-Max)

Can you get very good negatives that will print very well in comparison to using imagesetters.

I know there is a book by Dan Burkholder. However I want comments from somebody who has actually tried this out.

Thank you for all your previous comments and responses.

<p>

Mo Kenny

I would appreciate any information with regards to where I can purchase "PALLADIO" papers for contact printing.

I have tried albeit unsuccesfully to contact the Palladio Company in Boston that used to make the papers. Maybe the company is out of business. I am not yet ready to start coating my own papers. I just want to try this out and see whether this is for me.

<p>

Thank you.

<p>

Mo Kenny

I have the linoscan 1400 with newcolor 4000 software. (little 0r no

difference from the 1450 except for the firewire connection)

I use it mainly to scan 4x5 negatives T-Max 100.

The software is OK but not as versatile as Silverfast from the

reports of others on the digital groups. Personally, I have not used

this software.

In conclusion, I get excellent scans with the scanner and it's

bundled software. Furthermore, the Newcolor 5000 is supposed to be an

upgrade.

I hope this helps.

Mo Kenny

I also bought the shen hao camera direct from China.

Contact Perry Wong. He is the contact person there.

However, be aware that there is usually a few days delay in e-mail

response from them.

I chose the 45hzxII

They are very reliable.

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Mo

Can anybody recommend a printing paper similar to kodak ultima satin (for digital priniting.)

I have used the Kodak ultima and it is very good. The only limitation is that it comes only in 8.5x11 size as far as I can tell. Hence I'm looking for a paper with similar coating and printing characterictics that is available in larger sizes namely 11x17 or 13x19.

I also have a shen -hao camera and i bought a used frenel screen from

a local photo shop. It works very well. All you need to do is to put

on the outside of the Ground Glass next to where you look at on the

glass.

My pictures are very sharp.

As Dave Willis suggested, you can purchase a fresnel screen from

Edmund Scientific. (Buy one that is 1/16 th of an inch thick.)

Hope this helps.

Mo Kenny

Somebody recently showed me a negative processing machine called image maker (not in production anymore).Refurbished but in good working condition. Can anybody who is familiiar with this machine share their experiences with me.

It is supposed to be "automatic", you just pour in the chemicals into a holding tank and literally walk away after you've programmed in the kind of development you want.

<p>

Thank you

<p>

Mo Kenny

I also just bought a 4x5 shenhao camera from the same source. The

camera is fantastatic. Very portable. It does take some getting used

to especially with the controls, however, once you get the hang of

it, it is a breeze.

I have taken some very nice photos with it. By the way, you can put a

fresnel focusing screen behind the GG (outside) it does not affect

the focus at all. My pictures remain sharp.

I would also recommend this camera highly.

NB. I do not have any financial interest in the company or its

products.

<p>

Mo Keny

I have just bought a Nikkor 90mm f8 lens. However the focusing screen remains dark. I cannot get a clear or focused image on the focusing screen. (The camera is new and my 210 mm f5.6 lens focuses well).

I have changed focusing screen and I have also used fresnel screen professionally made all to no avail. Would using a recessed lens board on the camera (field type view camera) make any difference or should I just buy another 90mm lens with F5.6 and below.

Constructive comments are welcome.

<p>

Mo Kenny

I would appreciate if any member of this forum could further expansiate on slide film exposure specifically Fuji velvia rated at ISO 40.

The rule of thumb is that you meter for the important highlight. However,by how many stops do you vary the exposure factor ? +1 or half stops.

To further illustrate, for instance lets say the important highlight is metered at F16 using reflected mode measurement. Do I open up by 1, 1/2, 1/3 or 2 full stops to correctly place the important highlight. I know that the exposure latitude for slide film is vey narrow.

I have tried to read a lot of books but ended up getting the whole thing confused.

Informative explanation would be most welcome.

From a newbie.

Thank you.

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Mo Kenny

Can anybody share their experience(s) on using the Heidelberg Linoscan 1400. I am particularly interested in how to tweak it to get excellent 4x5 scans.Furthermore, any comments on the Newcolor 4000 software will be greatly appreciated. Would the Vuescan software be a good substitute?.

<p>

Many thanks

<p>

Mo Kenny

I want to thank all of you who responded to my earlier question regarding scaning B&W films.

<p>

I would also appreciate comments regarding the use of type 55 polaroid film (positive/negative) especially the negative for scaning. Does it give comparable results to regular B&W negatives?.

I have a Linoscan 1400 flatbed scanner with the Linocolor software.

Furthermore, any ideas on the ISO rating of the negative and finally what is the best way to clear the negative.

Sorry my questions are long winded. I am just starting out in LF.

Once again thank you all for your anticipated recommendations and answers.

<p>

Mo Kenny