kuryan_thomas

<p>Why is the text inverted - something to do with Stanley Kubrick's "The Shining"?</p>

<p>Right-click on the top level "missing" folder. Select "Update Folder Location" then point to the corresponding folder on your attached drive.</p>

<p>Yes, I use genuine Epson inks, bought from B&H, and each time I switch black inks, I see that the "new" black is clogged and requires several cleaning cycles to unclog.</p>

<p>I'm a little surprised that you're surprised, Patrick. We have been through this before - you say Epsons never clog, I say it happens all the time to me. Perhaps I'll scan my cleaning cycle patterns and post them here? I swear I'm not making this stuff up.</p>

<p>Hmm...interesting...I have the opposite experience with my new 80-200. Clean at 80mm, CA at 200mm. But I've never seen any CA in the center, and never as bad as what you show. I see some CA in the corners on an FX camera from about 180mm to 200mm.</p>

<p>I would look at a new lens and compare, but I suspect there's a problem with the lens you're considering.</p>

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<p>If someone use a lot of ink wapping the black ink in a 3800 is doing something wrong..the 3800 use 4ml and 2ml during the switch.</p>

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<p>True, unless after the swap it turns out that the black nozzles are clogged. This happens to me a lot. After the swap, lots of cleaning is required - sometimes even a power clean.</p>

<p>If I'm doing something wrong, I would love to know what.</p>

<p>I'm hoping this won't be an issue for me any more - I've decided to do most of my printing on baryta paper, so I won't need to swap inks very much any more.</p>

<p>Adobe licensed the Photokit technology to use in Lightroom. Jeff Schewe now recommends we use Lightroom sharpening rather than exporting to Photoshop and using Photokit.</p>

<p>Having some adjustment latitude in Lightroom is definitely beneficial.</p>

<p>Stephen, Amit Singh has written a MacFUSE extension that allows OS X to read and write NTFS. See <a href="http://blogs.oreilly.com/digitalmedia/2008/12/read-and-write-ntfs-hard-drive.html">this link</a>.</p>

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<p>Kuyan you can sharpen in RAW with NIK</p>

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<p>Sharpener is installed as an external editor in Lightroom. Lightroom does not allow external editors to access the raw file as a raw file. Instead, Lightroom renders the raw file into a raster image such as TIF or PSD, in the process applying all of Lightroom's raw adjustments. It then ships the raster image to the external editor. The externally edited image is added to the Lightroom catalog as a raster image.</p>

<p>Sharpener is not acting directly on the raw file.</p>

<p>One thing to be aware of is that Nik Sharpener, unlike the built-in Lightroom sharpening, will transform a raw image. That is, once sharpened, raw images will no longer be raw, but rather TIF.</p>

<p>I have tons of wild white rhododendrons on my lot in Southwestern VA (Blacksburg to be precise). They usually bloom in the last week of June and are peaked by the first week of July. These are wild, not cultivated/planted.</p>

<p>Attached photo was shot July 8, 2006 on my lot.</p><div></div>

<p>Larry's suggestion of a more waterproof bag could be augmented with a <a href="http://www.quietworks.com/FRAMES_FILES/BJ_SPECIFICATIONS/BJ_NEW_HOME_FRAME_.htm">Black Jacket</a>. I use one of those over my DSLR to give me a dark area in which to focus with Live View, but it is quite waterproof into the bargain. What I do is keep the camera and lens covered by the Black Jacket until I need to compose and shoot, then I uncover the lens.</p>

<p>If it's going to be raining so hard that even that short time out from under the cloth will be a problem, then you will need a different solution.</p>

<p>The new AF-D version has a much superior tripod mount if you need one. The AF-S version requires you to buy a 3rd party tripod mount which will add cost. If you are handholding, the AF-S may be easier to hold.</p>

<p>Although I have a home in Fairfax, Virginia and like to think of myself as an amateur landscape photographer, I've never visited Great Falls NP. Yes, I know - shocking.</p>

<p>I plan to remedy this ASAP, perhaps the weekend of June 6-7. I'd very much appreciate hearing some tips on sunrise or sunset photography at the Falls. Anything you have to share would be most welcome - a knowledge dump as it were. Better at sunrise or at sunset? Is it a "rainy day" location (you know how some locations are better on an overcast day)? And so on.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

 

<p>Anyone know if it supports XMP? I could use a lightweight image manager to put on my laptop when I travel for photography, but it needs to support XMP so that the tagging makes it back to Lightroom on my desktop system.</p>

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<p>Be ready to fight a thousand other photographers for the shot.</p>

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<p>Oh, OK - didn't realize it was that crowded. Maybe I'll pass. Thanks.</p>

<p>I've seen many photos like <a href="http://www.johnshawphoto.com/favorites_gallery/roan-mt-rhodos.htm">this one by John Shaw</a>, of the famous rhododendrons at Roan Mountain in NC.</p>

<p>Questions:</p>

<p>1. I assume "Roan Mountain" refers to the Roan Mountain State Park?</p>

<p>2. How hard and long a hike is it to get to where these rhododendron bushes grow? Is there a description of the trail on the web or in a book?</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>I evaluated the Sony, the Canon 5DII and the D3x about 6 months ago. I ruled out the Sony for two reasons: the lens mount and the fact that I personally have always received absolutely abysmal customer service from Sony, to the point where I never buy Sony consumer electronics any longer.</p>

<p>It was a very close decision between the 5DII and the D3x. I almost switched to Canon - lens cost would not have been a factor anyway, given the price of the D3x. Based on my own evaluation, and given that the D3x is not in the running for you, my recommendation is the 5DII. It is a fantastic camera - I want to say "for the money," but no, it's just a fantastic camera, period.</p>

<p>In the end I bought a D3x because I am more used to Nikons and I like the big pro body, but it was a close decision.</p>

<p>Sorry, Colin, I should have listed my printer model too - Epson 3800.</p>

<p>Thanks for your response. So, I should just go ahead and print with the color driver, correct?</p>

<p>I would question whether the issue is your computer or NX2. I find NX2 to be unusably slow on my 3GHz, 8-core Intel Xeon Mac Pro. Granted, it may be an issue with NX2 on the Mac, but I've heard a lot of Windows users complain about NX2's performance. It's so bad that I've stopped using it altogether, and rely on Lightroom and other processors to get the job done.</p>

<p>I use Nik Silver Efex Pro to convert my images into b&w. I can print these images quite successfully using ImagePrint RIP in its b&w mode, as long as I don't tone the image.</p>

<p>My question is: how do you print a B&W image that has been toned with Silver Efex Pro, Lightroom, or another b&w converter? Doesn't the toning require you to use a color print mode? And if so, doesn't that cause all the issues associated with printing b&w using a color print mode (metamerism, etc)?</p>

<p>Please note, I'm not referring to toning using the print driver itself, as for example Epson Advanced Black and White can do, or the ImagePrint RIP can. I'm talking about toning using a b&w converter and then printing the final toned image.</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>I would suggest you look at a simple backup application such as <a href="http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html">Carbon Copy Cloner</a>. It's fast and very reliable, much faster and more reliable than using the Finder. It's also free unless you want to donate something to the developer. In several years of using it, I've never lost anything.</p>

<p>The advice on models and such above is good; nothing to add except to say that I've had good luck with APC.</p>

<p>Advice on hookup: make sure that everything the machine needs to shut down gracefully is connected to the UPS. For example, if an external disk isn't connected, the computer stays on but the disk shuts down, and the data may be compromised. In my case, my APC 1500 is connected to my Mac Pro via a powered USB hub so the Mac knows when the power has failed. It took me a while to realize that the USB hub also needed to be connected to the UPS!</p>

<p>Also, make sure the computer is set to "Never sleep" on UPS power. Seems counterintuitive, but if the computer sleeps on UPS power, it won't know to shut down if power never comes back on. (OK, if the power <i>never</i> comes back on, you've got a different problem, but I mean if the power doesn't come back on before the UPS battery runs out.)</p>

<p>I have both a 15" glossy and a 17" matte, so I can compare. The main problems I have with the glossy screen are reflections and a very slightly exaggerated contrast. Nothing I cannot live with. I calibrate using the Coloreyes Display Pro software with the bundled XRite DTP-94.</p>

<p>However, neither is suitable for critical work - you need a good external monitor. I use Apple Cinema HDs, but the new NECs are supposed to be much better.</p>

<p>I have a cunning plan, Lord Blackadder. You can in fact transfer the OS - look at <a href="http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html">Carbon Copy Cloner</a>, free (donations suggested), which will make a perfectly bootable copy. I know, I've done it several times.</p>

<p>On a different note - why won't you have the OS on discs? Macs always ship with an install DVD containing the latest version of Mac OS X current at the time the machine was built. You can re-install it and then apply updates.</p>

<p>For me, landscape and nature photography is a way to prevent insanity, so I don't go beyond printing for myself and a small group of people I know. Sharing photographs with the "online community" seems to me a good way to <i>cause</i> insanity, not prevent it.</p>

<p>I think if my images were good enough to benefit an organization, then certainly, I would consider donating use rights. I don't know how to find this out, though.</p>