s_b21

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3863474">@Javier Gutierrez</a>, did you brighten it up on the computer or did you changed your procedure in the darkroom?</p>

<p>To add some visual value to this post I would like to point out this guy:<br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/2885658718_c77da88efa_o.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="398" /></p>

<p>Delta 3200</p>

<p>Al you need is a TI graphig calculator, what works for Canon should also work for Pentax:<br>

http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-a-TI-Graphing-Calculator-into-an-Intervalomet/</p>

<p>Nice movie, a good showcase of what can be achieved with the K-7(and DSLR filming in general)</p>

<p>Ah sorry i missed that part.</p>

<p>What are you planning to use it for and what's your budget?</p>

<p>You could consider the Alienbees abr800.</p>

<p>If your camera is getting hot somewhere, the chances are good that it's shorting somewhere in the camera.</p>

<p>I have the feeling that i am gonna step on some toes here, but what does it matter what the gender/race/shoe size/whatever of the photographer is as long you like their photos?</p>

<p>For your information, the Sigma 100-300 F/4 weighs about 1400 grams, the Pentax DA*300 is 400 grams lighter. Enter a teleconverter and you could have a solution.<br>

I think that tele's at the long end won't go any lighter than that, there is just a lot of glass in them.</p>

<p>Hi Marco,<br>

You can go for an old Pentax DSLR(i say Pentax here because i don't know if CaNikons have the same feature) and set up a focus trap?<br>

Use a manual lens(or some tinfoil between the contacts if you only have an AF lens), pre-focus, and set the camera on AF-C with burst mode. Attach a wire remote and put it on bulb.<br>

Now everytime something comes in the area you've focussed on the camera will keep taking pictures until it's gone again.</p>

<p>Simon,</p>

<p>What are you planning to use it for? Photographing obviously, but what? Are you planning to walk around with it in the forest or are you just going to use it from the side of a soccerfield?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I have the same red hue on my converted K100D, what works for me is to apply Brad's IR action in PS later: <a href="http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo94.php3">http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo94.php3</a></p>

<p>One of the old K-cameras would be a good choice for you, the're all build like a tank and function very well.<br>

I have a lot of film Pentaxes but the K1000 is still my favourite, all manual and mechanical, only needs a new battery every 4 years and it even functions without it. It feels just good to me.</p>

<p>I like it a lot, it is nice and compact but the focus ring is still easy to operate. It sharp at f/2.8 and stopped down a bit is is a really nice sharp lens.</p>

<p>Didn't knew that, interesting to know!</p>

<p>This lens came from Greece, and here also they managed to hide the number on ebay-photos...<br>

At another forum someone suggested that is was done in the factory, ft meaning 'Factory Testing' but i can't find any sources to confirm it...</p>

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

Recently i picked up a M 28mm f/2.8 from Ebay, but is has a second serial number etched in to it:</p>

<p><img src="http://i25.tinypic.com/dnm5ix.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /></p>

<p>Is anyone familiar with and can someone tell me a bit more about it?</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Erasmo</p>

<p>Hello,<br /> Some friends of me had an old camera lying around and asked me to identify it.<br /> It was an Olympus FTL with four lenses. None of them are photograpers so they want to get rid of the gear.<br /> I checked Ebay and the Hove Blue Book but i can't find a price estimate. As far as i know it is a complete set and it is in mint condition.<br /> Can anybody spare some thoughts on this?</p>

<p>Thanks!<br /> Simon</p>

<p>Can you tell us what brand it is?</p>