dave_gurtcheff

I presently have a Gateway PC with larger Gateway LCD flat screen

monitor, which I calibrate and profile with a Spyder. I have an old

PC which I will be giving up, but it has a newer NEC LCD flat screen

monitor which I would like to use in conjunction with the larger

screen. I have read where it is apparently possible to put

Photoshop's pallettes on the smaller monitor, and use the larger

monitor only for the picture being edited. How do I go about hooking

this up?

Thanks

Dave

Got this on another forum:

http://www.sciencecenter.net/hutech/newprod.htm

Hutech offers a solution for what you are looking for.. Scroll to the middle of the page and you will see a 1.25" telescope eyepiece used behind a telephoto lens :-)

regards,

Leon

Hi all:

My wife and I are going on a 9 day vacation trip to Ireland. I

normally shoot RAW only with my 1DS. For our trip, however, I plan on

shooting both RAW and small JPEG. The reason is that I want to put

together a snapshot album of 4"x6" prints of our trip. Anything

extraordinary, I would of course use the RAW file, and work on that

in P.S. My question is what parameters should I use for the JPEGs so

that an inexpensive lab could make nice snap shot 4"x6"s? Since I

won't be sharpening, applying levels, color saturation enhancement,

etc to the JPEGs, I need parameters applied in-camera so I get good

prints without any post processing by me, as I expect I will have a

ton of images. BTW, I plan on copying the JPEGs to a CD, and giving

the CD to the lab. Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Dave G

Thanks, Greg.

Dave

Thanks all for your replies. Happy New Year!!!

Dave

Thanks. I think I now understand. This begs the next question: If I set the above parameters to my liking, would they then effect the imbedded JPEG?

Thanks

Dave

Check this link over at the excellent Luminous Landscape site:

http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/mirror-lock.shtml

Regards Dave

Thanks, Ed. I did get the white springgy band.

Dave

Thanks, Joe. Part of Epson's response stated that Premium Luster is a very soft paper. I have heard from others that have stated that Premium Luster and Premium Glossy both suffer from this problem. I just ordered a roll of Premium Glossy and Premium Semi-Mat. I have not changed any settings other than setting STANDARD for thickness when going through the initial setup per Epson's instructions.

Thanks for your help.

Dave P.S. I have not used any of the matt papers, as I cannot afford to switch back and forth because of the approx. $100 ink loss each time.

Thanks---I now plan to go to a Gateway Store, and actually look at the various monitors they offer, although my decision to buy a Gateway , Dell or Brand X is still pending.

Dave

Thanks all for your responses. I note that both Michael Reichmann of Luminous Landscape, and Ian Lyons of Digital Darkroom, (both of whose work I admire), have switched to LCDs, and I wanted to get everyone here's take on it. One of the above posters suggested keeping my present display---not a bad idea, really, as I do like it very much (it's a Dell 19"). My present PC will become a backup, and I do have another monitor (an Old Gateway 17")that I could probably use with this system.

Thanks again

Dave G.

Hi all:

My Dell PC is now over 4 years old, and has the max RAM possible (384

Mb), and I will be purchasing a new system in the next several

months. I would like input from users of the new flat panel LCD

monitors. Specifically, any input from the LCDs supplied from Dell or

Gateway? I will need to calibrate and profile my monitor; at present

I use Photocal and Spyder. I have the CRT version of the Spyder,

which I understand will not work with an LCD, and realize I would

need to purchase another version. Flat panel LCDs by independents,

such as Apple, Sony,etc are out of my budget range, so my choice

would be Dell or Gateway suppplied 18" LCDs, or 19" Trintron type

CRTs. At one time, LCDs were considered inferior to CRTs for photo

editing, but the state of the art may have changed. I think the LCD

display would need separate RGB adjustments like my present CRT has

so I can calibrate it, is this correct?

Thanks, and happy holidays

Dave G.

Please go to Michael Richman's Luminace Landscape site. He has been a Rollei/Schneider lens user for years. He still is, but recently added a Pentax 6x7, and lenses. He raves about his results with the Pentax, and has many samples on his site. His site is commercial free---every thing he tests is his, with no particular "ax to grind".

Dave G.

Hi all:

The Nikon 8000 ED will also have Digital ICE (automatic dust remover), so the issue of dust on a glass carrier should not be an issue. BTW, they will also have Digital ROC and GEM. These 3 items sway me to the Nikon in lieu of the 120 Sprintscan, everything else being equal.

Regards

Dave G.

Ewen:

I use a Contax G2, which is also a rangefinder camera. The 28mm and 45mm lens has a 46mm thread. I use a Leitz "swing-out" polarizer. It rotates up so you can revolve it and see the polarizer effect, then it pivots down 180 degrees in front of the lens. If you know someone who has one, or a local camera shop would let you fit it to your lens, you could try it. It comes with both a 46mm fitting, and a 55mm fitting. You could step up from 49mm to 55mm, screw in the 55mm fitting, and attach the polarizer. They are expensive--maybe you could find one used.

It is very ingenious--don't know why Contax did not come out with one.

Regards

Dave G in NJ

Hi all: I shoot color and BW negative film exclusivley to print. I have been making 16"x20" color and BW darkroom prints for 42 years, and recently 13"x19" digital prints. I have been fortunate to be able to sell my work as "fine art", always in the large sizes stated above, framed and matted in 20"x24". The reason I am telling you about print size is because I use plain old consumer 35mm Gold 200 (yes 200). The reason is simple: I almost always use a polarizer, which reduces light by about a stop and a half or so, and I dislike using a tripod. The extra stop of film speed allows a typical bright day exposure with polarizer of about 1/60 to 1/90 second at f11,or so, which I can hand hold with wide angle lenses, (sometimes I use a monopod),and provides reasonable depth of field for landscapes/seacsapes which is what I do. I have found very little difference in grain between 100 and 200 Gold, in 16x20 prints, viewed at a normal distance. I buy the film at a place here in NJ called BJ's Warehouse, and it comes bundled usually 4 or 5 rolls at a very, very low price (possibly imported/gray market???).

Regards

Dave G. in NJ