william_macintire

Film still excells for high speed, and there is some indication that even higher-speed, fine grain color print emulsions may be on the horizon. We might be seeing 3200 ASA or even faster film at the local drugstore in the future. Digital right now compares pretty poorly at ASA400 max for most cameras. On the other hand, many point and shoot digital cameras have surprisingly fast lenses compared to point and shoot film cameras.

Amazing coincidence: my Minilux showed the EO2 error code last night

right after I had submitted my earlier message! After some fiddling

it is working again, but I expect it's going back for warranty

repairs on the extended warranty. Even off warranty, I would think a

$150-200 repair would be worthwhile. You couldn't get anything

comparable new for that.

I bought a Minilux (non zoom) 2 years ago, my first Leica,

and it opened my eyes to what a really great lens could do. I had

used cheap Pentax SLRs up to that point, and I can't complain about

the Pentax lenses, they're fine, but I can't stress it enough, the

Minilux lens is just wonderful. Even 4 x 6 photo lab shots are

special. I've had very good luck with slide film. Exposure is

usually just right, although you have to use common sense about where

you focus for best exposure, or use the compensation override when

needed. The ability to prefocus and recompose is a nice feature in a

point and shoot.

 

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Cons include the top shutter speed of 1/400 (if you've got fast film

loaded, you're stuck with 1/400 @ f16 on a sunny day), and that the

flash setting reverts to auto after shut off, although for a point and

shoot, it is amazing how often it will not resort to flash in marginal

light - it must be looking for something slower than f2.4 @ 1/60

before flash is engaged (I've seen cheap point and shoots auto flash

in full daylight pretty often). Also, there's no lens hood - I

usually don't encounter much flare, but a strong side light can do it.

There have been reported breakdowns as well. I haven't had a problem,

but I'm sort of glad I purchased an extended warranty, just in case I

do get that failure message. Also, a case is extra. And, for a P&S,

it's a little heavy, like a small brick, so if I was buying now, I

would consider the Contax T3. But I don't see how the T3 lens could

be any better.

It occurred to me that one other possibility is that you might have

the manual focus set to infinity or some other setting - sounds

stupid, but it's an easy enough mistake to make, I've done it myself

a few times. Since you bought it used, I'm not sure if you have a

manual. If the little green light next to the viewfinder is flashing

as you focus, this might be the problem.

It must be broken, mine has no problem focusing even in farily dim

light.

Walz made a round vented one you can sometimes find pretty cheap on

ebay - that's where I got mine, with a set of filters.

Hey, good eye for detail on the viewfinder window - notice it has a

screw in it, but it does not seem to actually be removable.

The gold brass rather than chrome parts suggest it could be Russian

to my eye, but I'm no expert. They say the lens is in great

condition, but it appears to be missing the infinity lock pin. The

aperture setting tab (there must be a proper term for this thingy)

also appears to be missing. And if the lens is screwed in all the

way, there's a bit of a problem, as the infinity lock is at the ten

o'clock position when it should be at about the 7 o'clock position -

unless they screwed in differently on those early II's.

 

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The serial number is probably your best clue. Is it possible that

its a I converted to a II?

I don't trim mine, no problem. I use the "Business card" method,

which involves inserting a buiness card next to the take-up spool,

covering the gears. The film slides in behind the card. I do this

with the lens off and the shutter open, to be sure it goes in right.

Tighten up the slack some, remove the card, and voila, perfectly

loaded film.