denise_brown

<p>I used CS3 and the option for bicubic enlargement and it came out fine when printed. Thanks for all the info!</p>

<p>Hi Shawn,<br />I have done some experimenting outside twice with the SB600 on a light stand and aimed up to the left and at a 45 degree angle, with the stand to the left of my camera, and attached to the SC28 cord to the hotshoe and speedlight. I put the D60 on manual mode and used TTL mode on the speedlight. I used the the Sekonic meter to see what the natual light readings were. I then set the camera to the same shutter and F-stop. White Balance set to flash. I didn't use exposure compensation. It gave me a really nice fill. Both times it was late afternoon. I always shoot in Raw so I can adjust it in photoshop later if needed.<br />I shot a wedding using a Gary Fong diffuser and on camera flash with the SB600. I got there early to test it out. I used the aperture mode with TTL flash, and set the exposure compensation up a couple of stops. The pictures turned out nicely. I also shot a model portfolio outside using on camera flash with a westcott diffuser on the speedlight and it worked great. I think as long as you are diffusing the flash and shooting in raw you can always fix it later in photoshop if you need to. Luckily I didn't have to fix anything on those.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I just bought a Nikon SC-28 cord. I have a Nikon D60 and SB600 speedlight. <strong>I am putting the speedlight on a light stand and using the SC-28 cord to connect it to a hotshoe adaptor on the D60</strong> .<br>

I want to know if there is a way to get more control when using this cord without buying anything else???<br>

So far this is what I have tired. I put the camera in manual flash mode and the speedlight also in manual mode. I put the camera in shutter priority mode on 1/60 sec but it would not let me choose the aperture. I checked the metadata and it used F 2.8 on the test shot.<br>

This little SC28 cord setup is more portable, light weight, and perfect for portraits of my family without having to lug my strobes over to the relatives house. It can be used indoors or outdoors which I like.<br>

1.) I don't know what the options are for the settings in the camera and on the speedlight when using this SC28 cord.</p>

<p>2.) Is manual flash mode the only option? I thought this was supposed to work with TTL but how to set it up?</p>

<p>3.) Can this work with my camera in manual mode (not shutter or aperture priority modes)?</p>

<p>4.) How would you meter using the Sekonic using this set up?</p>

<p>5.) Can you use custom white balance with this setup or do you have to set the camera to "flash" for color temperature?</p>

<p>6.) I don't know how to use my Sekonic meter with the speedlight on the camera either. I usually rely on the meter inside the camera when using the speedlight. I have heard there is a way to meter with the Sekonic when using the speedlight and I would LOVE to find out!<br>

I'm used to using multiple studio slave strobes with the main light hooked up to a hotshoe adaptor on the camera (I don't have pocket wizards), custom white balance and my meter and working in manual mode... so I'm a little baffled trying to figure out how this works!<br>

Thanks so much for everyone's help!!! :)</p>

<p>I moved the two strobes with soft box strips back about four or five feet from the background paper on each side. I aimed them at the center. This worked beautifully!</p>

<p>Yes they are real strobes. They are not "hot lights". I have four lights (two are 200 watts, the other two are 110 watts). I do use manual exposure with my light meter.<br>

I will try moving the b/g lights farther from the background, great advice!<br>

I do meter the lights individually and meter them separately.<br>

Thanks for all the advice!</p>

<p>I'm getting frustrated with the way my photos are turning out. They look fine on the LCD screen but when I upload them to the computer I can see things that are not noticeable in the camera.<br>

I'm using Smith Victor Strobes. Sometimes the two background lights fire and sometimes they don't. I'm not sure why this is happening. The two strobes in the front usually fire. I'm using the main light with a sync cord and the rest are slaves. The ones in the front are 200 watts and the ones on the background are 110 watts.<br>

I'm having problems lighting the background paper as well. When I'm doing a headshot or from the waist up the background looks fine. When doing a full body shot it's apparant the the background is not lit evenly. There are lighter areas on each side where the strobes are aimed at the background paper. I want to know how to evenly light the background paper. I'm working in a limited area.<br>

The studio is about 20 x 26. The walls are white. The ceiling is 16' tall.<br>

I usually have the subject sit or stand about 4 feet from the background. If any further forward I wouldn't be able to get a full body shot due to space limitations. I'm using a 17-50mm lens.<br>

I have a Sekonic L-358 light meter that I use. What am I doing wrong?<br>

I can't afford better lights right now and need to make the ones I have work. I need to use the solid color background paper for the type of photos that I'm shooting.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I want to print a poster size image of a portrait. My question is how to do it and make it look good. My SLR camera has 10.2 megapixels. Someone told me that I can't print larger than a 16 x 20 and have it look good since my camera is not a large format but I am not sure if they are right or not.<br>

The image is 2592 x 3872 pixels at 300 pixels per inch (and 8.64 inches x 12.907 inches). If I use the crop tool set to 27 inches x 42 inches and 300 pixels per inch will it look okay printed? After cropping it changes the image to 8,100 x 12,300 pixels at 300 pixels per inch.<br>

Since I've never had anything this large printed any advice on the best way how is appreciated! Thanks a lot!</p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

<p>Thanks. What about expo disks? Would that help too?</p>

<p>I just found out the ceiling is beige, not vaulted, and has some wood beams across it. Is the lightsphere still the best solution?</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

<p>The couple said okay to using flash during the ceremony, yeahhh! I'm considering buying the D300 and better glass. I appreciate all the replies!</p>

<p>I really hope the couple won't mind flash because that sounds like the best solution here. Yes the walls are a light pink so that is a relief. I will find out if the ceiling is white or vaulted on Sunday when I go over to the couple's house. My camera also allows for a custom white balance. I also prefer to set the white balance in the camera to match the light. I hate auto WB! I will have to get some of those gels in case I need them some other time. thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!</p>

<p>My camera has presets for white balance and about 7 different presets for CFL's.</p>

<p>No I'm not familiar with gels or working with K temps. Can anyone tell me how that works?</p>

<p>I did ask the couple already if they had enough light coming in through the windows to just turn them off and use natural light. The bride said her mom and aunt wanted more light than the CFL's were putting out. There is only one french door that is paned in the room. So yes there will be daylight coming through the french door but it may not be enough to light the room.<br>

I will have to check it out when I go over there. Maybe the best thing to do during this ceremony is shoot flash and try to overpower the CFL's. The bride likes the CFL's so probably won't get to change them. In the tent, do you bounce straight up or off the sides of the tent? Thank you!</p>

 

<p>I'm worried it will all turn out green due to the fluorescents and then if mixed with flash (big sigh) ... any help is appreciated!!!</p>

<p>I am shooting an "at home" wedding, maybe 50 guests... need advice on best way to approach the lighting. Bride cannot afford to hire anyone, is desparate, and this is a freebie. I'm a portrait photographer and have never done a wedding. I'm used to using my stobes in my studio or flash and speedlight softbox diffuser for outdoor portraits. I've read some wedding tips online and will use a shot list. Mostly I need help with lighting!<br>

Living room where ceremony will be has 6 recessed bulbs in ceiling, flourescent. All the furniture will be removed for the wedding. The walls are cherry blossom pink, not white. There are about 6 white balance settings on my camera for flourescent lights. The bulbs are not daylight balanced and won't be changed.<br>

I'm going over there prior to the wedding day to look at the house/bulbs, and maybe do some tests for white balance. There is a floor lamp that has three arms and matching bulbs, the same kind as in the ceiling. I'm thinking I may need a grey card but have never used one before and need instructions. I have a light meter that I use for my portraits but not sure how to use it in this situation. I'm not going to use my flash and a diffuser (since it's distracting) during the actual ceremony. I will probaby hand hold and use the VR on my lens unless I need to use my tripod. Unless everyone thinks I should just use the flash anyway? Bride and groom are flexible and will work with me on the lighting. The ceremony is at 4:30 pm and will be quick so there may still be some daylight outside after the ceremony.<br>

The cake is in the dining room, which has minty green walls and another mirrored wall. I think my softbox speedlight diffuser will work in this situation. I plan showing up early and using natural light and my tripod to capture the little details like the rings, invitations, etc.<br>

For the formals I think I will use the flash and a diffuser, either inside or outside, and exposure compensate up a stop for the lost light. There may be some of the golden hour left. <br>

The reception will be in the back yard under a tent and the lighting will be a whole lot of white/clear christmas lights strung all over. It will get dark outside pretty quickly after the ceremony is over. I am thinking of taking some wider shots with a high ISO on my tripod or monopod and no flash. Then take some with the flash and a diffuser. How to exposure compensate outside in the dark with just Christmas lights? Not sure how bright or dark it will be and since I'm using a diffuser will lose some light there. <br>

Any suggestions on the best way to approach the lighting in each of these situations? I appreciate all advice!<br>

I usually shoot in fine but think maybe Raw this time just in case. I don't have the Capture NX 2 yet but plan to get it eventually. I do have Photoshop Elements 5 and CS2. <br>

Here is my gear: Nikon D60, Nikkor 18-55mm lens, Nikkor 18-200mm VR lens, Dedicated SB600 Speedlight, Westcott Softbox for speedlight, extra battery and extra memory cards. I'm considering buying the Garya Fong lightsphere. I've got a portable strobe kit that I use for portraits including softbox and umbrella but would rather not bring that along. Any suggestions on diffusers since the speedlight softbox may not be powerful enough in this situation?<br>

Thanks so much!</p>