rusty johnston
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Posts posted by rusty johnston
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Thanks so much for all of your help. I think that experimentation will be the best guide!
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Good afternoon all,
I made an effort to search for this topic but found nothing previous
on it. If I missed something then please direct me to that forum.
I am the proud owner of a new D70s coming to it as a long time N90s
and F100 user. Most things seem straight forward but the "Optimize
Image" feature caught my eye. Does anyone have much experience with
this? Any one setting seem to work or not work? Where do most of
you keep your camera, in normal? Thanks in advance for any input.
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I am a hobbiest photographer and am looking for an inexpensive monolight kit to do
portraits of my family and friends. On a recent ebay search I found a kit offered by a
company called "Dreammaker Photographic" and what they offered was a light called the
Millennia M-320B. Have any of you heard of them or this light? If so, what are your
thoughts? Are there any other suggestions for inexpensive monolights?
Many thanks,
Rusty
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Thank you gentlemen for all of your thoughts. The soft box is relatively inexpensive, especially on ebay, so I may pick one up and experiment. If I come up with anything interesting I'll repost.
Many thanks,
R.
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First off, I debated which forum my question best fit and ultimately
decided on this one. For the moderator, if this is deemed in
appropriate, please accept my appologies.
I am using an N80 with an SB-600 flash. I Have a light stand and an
SC-17 cable and I'm looking to add a softbox for portrait and
product work. I have found on-camera softboxes that are in the
16x20" size that I feel will give better coverage and results
however this completely covers the flash. Does this effect the way
I should set-up the flash and camera? Will TTL no longer work
because the softbox is so large? If so, do I then need to operate
the flash in manual? Thanks in advance for any quidance or
direction.
Rusty
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Does anyone have experience or examples of this lens used for people
portraits? I'm trying to purchase lenses that accomplish multiple
tasks and this lens is very appealing. This lens has a great
reputation for close-up work but how does it fair in other instances?
Thanks in advance to all who contribute.
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I have an F100 and an SB-28, both recently purchased used but in
excellent condition. When the flash is mounted on the camera it
will fire intermitently without the shutter button being pressed.
It does seem to fire just fine when it's suppose to but I'm not sure
what is causing it to fire the other times. I'm assuming it's my
flash but I don't have access at the moment to another one to test
that theory. Has anyone else heard of this? Does the flash need to
to sent in for repair or is there something else that I can do?
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When speaking about Nikon's mid-range zooms, the 24-85mm 2.8-4, the
24-85mm 3.5-4.5, the 28-70mm 3.5-4.5 and so on, is one considered
better than the rest? I have my single focal length lens when top
quality is needed and I realize that they don't compare to Nikon's
2.8 zooms but when convienence is the order of the day, which one do
you grab? Thanks in advance for any opinions and if this has
question has resently been posted, please direct me to it.
Regards,
Rusty
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Jim,
Didn't see that when I did my preliminary search. Thanks for the link.
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Canon's 28m 1.8 USM lens gets very mixed reviews and my theory is
that most of it's negative reviews have spawned from those without
first hand knowledge. I may be wrong but that's what I'm hoping to
find out.
I'd love to hear from those who have actually used this lens their
opinions of it. How does it perform wide open, what about stopped
down? I don't expect L series quality but I would expect it to
perform better than zoom lens and maybe even better than the 28mm
2.8. Thanks in advance to all who contribute.
R.
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Bruno,
Very perceptive. Were working on one of our own.
r.
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Thanks everyone. GP, the film was Kodak 400 BWC (?). It's Koday C-41 process black and white film.
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Here is a <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?
folder_id=472662" >link</a> to some of the 3 rolls worth of photos
shot this weekend at the birth of my new nephew. I've only been
using Leica rangefinders for about 6 months but the more I push
myself to photograph "inconspicuously" at family events the more I
realize the power of these cameras. While these photos are not
anything award winning, I was able to capture very candid moments
without everyone in the room being aware of "the guy with the
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Good one Trevor, you and me both.
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Has anyone purchased an M7 or MP using Leica's new "a la carte"
program or do you know someone who has? Also, if you configure one
on their website the price comes in at upwards of $3,900.00; are
dealers discounting this any or is that what you actually have to
pay to get one? I'm not looking to start an argument on Leica
prices or collectors versus users, I'm just curious as to how this
program is going for Leica and if any of you folks actually know
someone whose bought one. Thanks for your comments.
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From time to time we read recommendations, on this site and others,
that to improve your photography the exercise of using just one
camera and one lens should be practised but I'm curious if anyone
actually ever does this? For some of us financial constraints force
us to practise this exercise more than we might want but have any of
you tried this for any length of time and if so, for how long? Is
it your regular habit? And do you feel that it improved your
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I read alot about have cameras, and lenses for that matter, CLA'd
but what can I actually expect to get in return? Does the camera
and/or lens come back working like new? Will film advance and
shutter release preform back to original standards? The reason I
ask is because you can pick up an older M6 classic for less than
half the price of a new MP or M7 and if an additional hundred or so
dollars for the CLA puts the camera back to like new condition, it
seems to be a no brainer. Thanks in advance to all who contribute
their thoughts.
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I'm looking for some opinions on the 50mm 1.4 lens, the newer AF-D
versus the older Ai(s). I am curious as to whether the older lens
preformed better wide open and if it had more pleasing out-of-focus
areas than the newer version? The newer version is much maligned
for its out-of-focus area but was the manual focus version any
better? Thanks in advance to all who contribute.
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Okay, I acknowledge that this might be a bit vain and trivial but
most of you will admit that an old black body Leica that shows some
brass has a special look about it. My question is, what do silver
bodies look like as they wear? If I'm not mistaken the new MP and
M7 have brass top and bottom plates for both the black and silver
versions so do you just end up with a silver camera with brass
edges? As I type this question it's starting to seem obvious but
I'll go ahead and post anyway. If any one has a photo of an old
silver camera that is starting to brass I'd love to see it. Many
thanks.
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The aperature ring on my 35 summilux has a slight "wiggle" or play
in it that my other lens don't have. I have also read other folks
reporting this as well. Is this just common to all 35 'lux ASPH
lenses? Does the pre-ASPH have a similar issue? I understand that
it doesn't effect how the lens works, it bugs me a little, but
mainly I'm just curious. Thanks for responces.
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I understand that one of the major differences between these two
cameras is the deletion of the depth of field indicator on the RX II
but I have also read that the shutters are different as well. And
because of that, the RX II is louder than the RX. Any truth to
that? And are there any other differences from one to the other?
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Nikons 50mm 1.4 AF lens seems to get more than it's share of grief
and I'm curious as to whether it is completely warranted or not. Do
any of you have examples shot with this lens wide open? I tend to
shoot the 50mm focal length alot and would like to add this to my
camera bag.
Fastest RAW Conversion Software?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
I am an amateur photographer shooting with a Nikon D70s. My
computer is an Apple iBook with the latest version of OSx however my
overall processor speed and the amount of RAM that I have are
limited. I apologize but I don't have the exact information now as
I'm posting this question from work.
I am interested in shooting RAW files so that I will have a greater
latitude for exposure adjustments, level adjustment and sharpening
in the computer. Right now, all I've used is Nikon's Capture
software which is nice but very slow. For example, when adjusting
contrast, after the adjustment has been made it takes the computer
30 seconds to a minute before the preview image is changed. Is
there another software program that is generally considered to be
faster? Or is this just something I have to live with until I can
update my computer? I don't do batch processing, I'm only working
with single images.
Thanks in advance for your help. I did a search on the topic but
did not find anything on it. If I missed something, kindly direct
me to that post.