cymen_vig
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Posts posted by cymen_vig
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<p>When the shutter preview mechanism part of the shutter button (or something similar) on the *ist D stops working the most recommended fix is to spray some electrical contact cleaner into it. Perhaps you could try the same? I'd be very careful to use as little as possible and keep trying it until you're not comfortable using any more (would help to tilt it so the liquid runs to the close corner and drops too instead of going towards the LCD and internals):<br>
<a href="http://home.howstuffworks.com/electrical-contact-cleaner.htm">How Stuff Works: Electrical Contact Cleaner</a> (Radio Shack should have it if you're in the US)<br>
If that doesn't work, you could at least get the full size photos back by removing the batteries. It might take a long while for the camera to loose its memory though. The cost of a used DL or similar body on eBay is probably not all that much more than any attempt at repair so unless you can find someone who will look at it for a reasonable price it might make sense to put it on eBay (someone will buy it) and buy one that works.</p>
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<p>Ah! I misunderstood. That is an odd problem.</p>
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<p>Such it is with eBay! It doesn't hurt to go with your gut and pass on what seems to be a deal if it doesn't seem quite right for you.</p>
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<p>I have this lens in Vivitar brand (manual focus) with the matching 1:1 diopter. It can't focus to infinity with the 1:1 adapter. It is meant for macro at 1:1. Not macro at inifity which is kind of an odd idea. This lens combined with one of the 6 MP Pentax bodies makes a really great hand held macro platform as it is very light.</p>
<p><a href="
src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/472166262_6383bc99f3.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="500" height="333" /> </a></p><p><a href="
src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/469188583_762eabaf32.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="500" height="333" /> </a></p><p><a title="IMGP1692-03 by Cymen, on Flickr" href="
title="IMGP1692-03 by Cymen, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/472185395_0f6299abb3.jpg" alt="IMGP1692-03" width="500" height="333" /> </a></p><p>More from this lens: <a href="
100mm f3.5</a> <br /> Also the <a href="http://flickr.com/groups/cosina/pool/">Cosina 100mm f3.5 pool</a> at Flickr</p><p>It helps quite a bit to have a split prism focusing screen. I think it is very sharp long before f8. Now I have the Vivitar 105mm f2.5 (Kiron really) macro, Tamron 90mm f2.8 and f2.5, and a couple more but I still think the Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro (the lens that is the topic of this thread) is a great buy.</p>
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<p>Artifacts are image quality problems caused by too much compression, too much sharpening, and/or perhaps something else. One place to see artifacts is on the lip of the train at the bottom. Notice how the highlight edge has a "staircase" effect? There are other artifacts too but the lip jumped out as an easy one to describe. Quite often, artifacts appear more readily on an LCD monitor compared to a CRT.</p>
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Whatever you do buy new with full support. You need it and it'll cost much more on a per hour or ticket basis if you buy used. I personally use Adobe Lightroom and find the import process fairly streamlined. I wouldn't let your old software sway which way to go. It sounds like you would be better off with a program more targeted at photographers than something like Photoshop.
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I think it's a fair price too and the fact it is full frame makes it more interesting to me than the other options. I also asked you for the contact details (sent via email yesterday). I don't think you're crazy for being tempted!
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You should send it in to Pentax. It's worth seeing if they'll do something for you -- doesn't hurt to get a
repair quote.
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Is your K20D set to use the external battery first? If so, swap the batteries and try it again with the grip
off. Batteries will vary so one may have slightly higher voltage or one may be flaking out.
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Oh, OM might require mount conversion -- I don't know. But certainly do use your K lenses!
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Why don't you get an adapter and use your Pentax lenses on your Canon? I'm not familiar with that model but if it is like the rest, you can get adapters for m42, Pentax K, Nikon, Olympus OM, etc. On the Canon 5D, some K lenses require work but on the cropped cameras none should be required.
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I say go with the FA 35mm f2.0. I wish I'd brought it before I went for the FA 50mm f1.4. I plan on getting a copy sometime soon.
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Go to micro-tools.com. You'll likely need a micrometer to measure the screw dimensions and thread but maybe you can figure it out without one.
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What works? Does it only trigger the shutter? Or can it trigger AF? Is there a switch to hold down the shutter button?
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Markus,
Your results are excellent. I have the M 200mm F4 and am curious how it compares to the K version so I'd appreciate it if you did do a comparison eventually of actual shots (not a fan of brick walls either). I have other K lenses and I love the build, feel and results from them. How do you find them on the K10D? Do you use the stock focusing screen? I use an *ist DL with a split-prism focusing screen and am contemplating the upgrade.
Have you considered the Jupiter 9 85mm F2.0 for portraits? I have the K 85mm F1.8 which is supposed to be very similar to the Takumar 85mm and I agree it can be too sharp. That Jupiter lens might have the soft rendering that you are looking for in portraits at F2.0.
I love the first photo and the frogs. The tones in the B&W bench and plow (?) look wonderful too.
Cymen
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The focusing screen in the K10D causes step-down metering to be erratic and expose improperly according to many posters on the DPReview forum. The other Pentax bodies (K100D, DL, D, etc) don't have this problem. The focusing screen in the K10D is designed to be user-replaceable and replacing it with the same type of screen as the D used (LL-80 or one of the other options) will make step-down metering more accurate.
Of course, with digital and histograms it isn't such a huge deal. I hope the next body Pentax releases doesn't have the same annoyance.
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For under $200 you should be able to find a Pentax *ist DL. It's a 6 mega-pixel DSLR. I have two -- one I brought new and another I recently brought used for $175. Admittedly, that is a fairly good price but it isn't all that low considering the newer Pentax models are dropping in price quickly.
For K mount lenses you are all set (there are a few options that may need to be enabled in the configuration menu) and for M42 lenses you'll need an adapter for around $20-$30.
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Officially, the screen is not removable on the DL but it is actually very simple to remove:
I've read that lighter fluid should do the trick. You want to use something that doesn't leave lint behind. What do you use to clean your sensor? I use the copper hill method with eclipse solution (methanol) and pec pads. The pec pads are great -- no fibers left behind at all.
I'm getting ready to clean mine. If I get it done soon I'll post back with my experience.
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Sounds like sensor noise which every DSLR has to some degree (or artifacts from heavy handed filtering of sensor noise). It starts getting worse as the exposure time increases after a certain point as the sensor starts to warm up.
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I'm curious if this is still an issue or if it was finally resolved. I'm surprised to say the least that DHL thinks such service is acceptable and fulfills their obligation to you.
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I forgot to mention that when the Pentax body thinks an auto-aperture lens is attached P-TTL is used. When it thinks a manual lens is being used then the flash is triggered at full power. This is true even when you have an auto-aperture lens mounted but have set the aperture using the ring instead of leaving the lens on A and setting aperture via the camera.
The Pentax manual goes into this a bit on page 149 for the *ist DL. I know because I happen to have the same model and was researching some flash questions a couple days ago. Pentax has been nice enough to make the manual available online at their website in PDF format.
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Unfortunately, the built-in flash is limited to a max speed of 1/180 with fully manual lenses. Also, P-TTL is not supported so you need to adjust the aperture to match the flash. You could purchase an external flash but the same limitation will be present unless you get the type that has a sensor on the flash and adjustments on the flash to change the amount of light.
The good news is you can trick the Pentax body into thinking your manual lens is an auto-aperture lens and you might have good results. To do this trick go here:
http://www.jr-worldwi.de/photo/index.html?intro.html
On left, "(Pentax) Flash", on the right "Flash Technique and technology", and then "Use P-TTL flashes with manual lenses". The whole section on Pentax flashes is well done and well worth reading.
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You can find the original Pentax M42 adapter on eBay occasionally. That is the fastest way to find it if you can't get it locally. Otherwise, go to:
Purchase Our Products
Shop Online
SLR Accessories->Teleconverters/Mount Adapters
Mount Adapter B
$30 plus shipping ($6.95 in US?)
Note that Pentax USA gets shipments in every month or so and sends them out so be prepared to wait. I was lucky and found one on eBay. I've seen a couple more on there but expect to pay as much as a brand new one from Pentax. The Kalt brand from BHPhotoVideo.com is also supposed to work but it isn't made as well as the Pentax one.
Pentax Lenses from Craigs List
in Pentax
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