marc_henry1

<p>Alan,</p>

<p>17-35 f2.8 has to be the way to go. Very robust. <br /> <br />Marc</p>

<p>Thanks all for the responses. As you can probably guess I am in the process of buying / thinking about buying a D800 and was wondering if there was any mileage in looking at the very nearly new market. However, I'm not sure I want to take on such a complicated camera without a warranty. I have had lots of Nikon products over quite a few years and am very happy with the reliability but there is always the chance of a little niggle or fault.<br>

The conclusion I have come to is that I should buy new because there is no great price advantage to buying nearly new and I then have the full warranty and all that comes with it. <br>

<br />Looking forward to getting hold of one. Thanks all again. <br>

Marc</p>

<p>Ray - Thanks for the response. My concern is that if I did have an issue then I would have to go back to the person I bought the goods from to use the warranty. This to me is not entirely satisfactory and does / should drag down the price of any D800 / D4 / D3X / D3S sold 'as new' by probably 25% of the lowest 'new' price. <br>

I don't know what other peoples thoughts are but it does seem a reasonable risk to me. </p>

<p>Good Evening,<br>

<br /> I ask this question from a UK perspective but perhaps someone here can help. Is it possible to transfer the manufacturers warranty on a Nikon D800 from the original purchaser to a second hand buyer ? If not it does seem to devalue second hand stock to some degree. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Brooke,<br>

I thinks it has already been mentioned but the biggest thing you can to do to make your day better is to stay relaxed. It can be a nerve racking experience so give yourself plenty of time in advance of all the big moments.<br>

The schedule is key as well as a shot list for the groups. It gives a nice bit of structure which is plainly written down in black and white. Of course it might change a bit but a good starting point none the less. <br>

If at any point you feel you're getting confused / flustered / overwhelmed switch to one camera with the 50mm. Incidentally - have you thought about lights at all - I don't think you mentioned them in your original post ?<br>

Regards,<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Frank,<br>

Thanks for the advice but I do appreciate that you can still override the iTTL system it is just not ergonomically joyful to do so. I find going in and out of the menus clunky and not in keeping with the design of the rest of the system. I was simply suggesting that the big wheel on the back of an SB900 would make a perfect dimmer control for the sort of 'environmental' portraits I'm quite keen on. All this could be done without moving your hands, imagining a camera in one hand and a flash in the other as was the case for the photograph at the start of the thread. <br>

I am curious to see if any others using the CLS would find this useful ?<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Craig,</p>

<p> Yes, you can manually fire the flash and use the control wheel as a 'dimmer' . However, I want to be able to do this wirelessly triggering from the on camera flash. The flash therefore has to be in 'remote' mode and then you lose the ability to set the output manually.</p>

<p>Regards,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your responses. <br>

Peter - I appreciate I probably think of lighting, or at least its control, in different terms that those being brought up on stills photography. My reason for wanting 1 - 100 % control is that it is much simpler than setting the intensity by entering an f stop.<br>

Pete S - I wasn't actually thinking of a wheel on the camera necessarily. I was thinking of using the scroll wheel on the SB-900. So when the flash is set to 'M' in the commander menu the rear dial becomes a dimmer. Those pocket wizards look interesting - I will have a look for a price in a moment.<br>

Ariel - I must have misunderstood the CLS instructions I read as I didn't think the flash compensation applied if you dial it in on top of the camera when in commander mode. Thanks - I will try this the next time I get a chance. My frustration was stemming from not being able to quickly fine adjust the flash setting without going back into the menus.<br>

Rodeo Joe - I think you see what I'm getting at. It is that quick control whilst trying to photograph moving animals (I have some equine portraiture coming up) that would be a great addition to the CLS. <br>

Thanks again for all your comments,<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Ariel - I am using a D700 and D300s so do have the compensation button but would really like a 1-100% control which is quick to use. Most of my flash photography involves moving subjects and to have 'fader' control would be a massive advantage. Also, I have always understood that the compensation doesn't apply when using the CLS control - perhaps I am wrong.<br>

JDM - Thanks - she is a Staffordshire Terrier / Whippet cross handed in as a stray in London and has been with us for the last 11 years.<br>

Regards,<br>

Marc</p>

<p>I was out playing with a new lens this evening and to try it out went for a walk on the beach with my terrier. She is brindle and white (photo attached) and therefore makes quite a good test subject as you have to remember to that you are exposing for both the brindle (black and brown) bits and white bits. Whilst using an SB 900 off camera via the CLS it occurred to me that it would be a very handy feature for the scroll wheel to act as a dimmer in 'M' mode rather than have to change the flash intensity by going through the camera menus. I have a feeling this is something that could be implemented by a software rather that hardware upgrade. Does anyone else think this would be useful ?<br>

I come form a stage lighting background and like the idea of each source having a simple and direct control of intensity. For the most part the TTL metering works very well but there are those situations where the meter can be confused - such as when you want to light a small, mostly brown animal against a dark sky.</p>

<p>Regards,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<div></div>

<p>Richard,<br>

If you don't want to do it tell them you are already busy, pretty booked up around then and wouldn't have the time to devote to it etc etc . I presume if its someone you only see once a year you are not too bothered about attending yourself ?<br>

However, if you feel confident enough in your abilities take it on as a job - charge them enough to make it worth your time and effort (you are in business after all) and enjoy the word of mouth publicity.<br>

Marc</p>

<p>My image was found on the headland by the Battle of Britain memorial, Capel le Ferne, Kent.<br>

Enjoy,<br>

Marc</p>

<div></div>

<p>The cat looking like he knows he was there first.</p>

<p>D700 with 50mm f1.8</p><div></div>

<p>I think it is more a matter of exposing for the subject and allowing the highlights to blow out. None of the key elements are overexposed - just the bit behind them. Also the white balance has ( I would imagine) been cranked to somewhere around the 6500 K mark .<br>

Enjoy,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>I have to say I have never heard mine 'squeak' as such. There is a distinctive focus noise but it I couldn't described it as anything high pitched.<br>

If it focuses probably best to leave alone unless you are actively using it in a situation where it costs you more than the cost of the repair if it breaks. <br>

Marc</p>

<p>Elle,</p>

<p> I can readily appreciate the frustration of trying to bring in business in an incredibly competitive market. Could you perhaps add a link to your site somewhere to give an idea of the sort of work you are doing ?<br>

One point I would make is that confidence is a very large selling point in any engagement. Perhaps your recent run of bad luck has led you to lose some of the confidence that your potential clients want to see ? I have no idea whether this is true but finding the balance between being a blatant 'salesperson' and coming across as a confident professional clients want to work with is a tricky balance.<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>C.S,</p>

<p> I know exactly how you feel. I have just built a website with wordpress and having been initially very sceptical and confused I would now recommend the system to someone trying to build their own site or blog. One book that I worked my way through is '24 Hour Wordpress Trainer' with the amazon link here : <a href="http://www.amazon.com/WordPress-24-Hour-Trainer-Create-Customize/dp/0470554584">http://www.amazon.com/WordPress-24-Hour-Trainer-Create-Customize/dp/0470554584</a> . I appreciate you are more focused on a blog but this book does give a useful guide to the structure. Also, for 24 hours take about three days.<br>

I would say stick with it - when you understand the system you will be able to control what you put on the web with your name on it and you can easily edit your content from anywhere.</p>

<p>Hope it works for you,</p>

<p>Marc </p>

<p>Katie,</p>

<p> As a few others have suggested a little reading is probably whats needed first. Can I recommend the late John Hedgecoes 'New Manual of Photography' . Here is a link to it on amazon : <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Manual-Photography-John-Hedgecoe/dp/1405334762/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1305844514&sr=8-1">http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Manual-Photography-John-Hedgecoe/dp/1405334762/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1305844514&sr=8-1</a> This is a well put together guide to the principals and reading it will help you decide what you want to achieve and how you actually achieve that. At the moment you are a salesmans dream - you want to spend some money and you want someone to tell you what to buy. Arm yorself with a little knowledge first.<br>

Enjoy,</p>

<p>Marc </p>

<p>Hello All,<br>

Dave Lee I totally agree. I own both a D700 and a D300s and when I decide to take a camera when I walk my dog it will always be the D700 with (usually) a 50mm f1.8 . There is just something about the ruggedness of the build quality and the size of the camera that makes it fit in my hand well. I know everyone has been writing them off for the last 18 months but who cares. If you want to have the latest then you will never be satisfied and you will never be happy enough to just go out and enjoy taking photographs. If you want a great camera with a big viewfinder to use today buy a D700.</p>

<p>Enjoy,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Paul,<br>

It is one of those things that you can't decide - there may be lots of complicated history or they may all get along fine. Ask upfront and get a written shot list. I would normally write up a shot list with the bride and groom when I meet them beforehand and then email it over for them to add to. This doesn't need to be done in a hurry so gives them plenty of time to think through their list plus they can add useful details like extended family members names. This makes it easier to pick people out of the crowd and its a little more personal.<br>

Hope it goes well,<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Hello All,</p>

<p> One point that I don't think has been covered is that if you shoot a frame every 3 seconds people will get annoyed - especially if there are strobes going off at the same time. When I go to a wedding as a guest I do not want to take part in a photoshoot I want to be there to celebrate the wedding. Photography has an important part to play in the day but it should be subtle and appropriate. I would rather shoot 30 - 40 really well constructed and interesting photographs that 200 average snaps and the sort of people coming to me for their photos, I think, appreciate that.<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>I don't envy your position. I don't think the Bride and Groom know what they are asking you to do which does put you in an extremely awkward position and to be honest you don't sound confident enough to carry it off. I don't mean to be rude but if this is worrying you now then it will niggle at the back of your head until the wedding happens.<br>

For me it takes three warning signs to walk away - there are the family dramas, you have to pay to get there and you've never done it before. This is a little different to taking a few photos in a friends back garden.<br>

If it helps turn the job (yes it is a job) down why not get offended that they spent all that money on the boat and thought they could save a few £$£ by letting you pick up the financial slack.<br>

It doesn't sound like you want to do it so don't.<br>

Marc</p>

<p>I was on the Kent coast on a rare day off and took a different view of my flash.</p>

<div></div>

<p>I don't think anyone else has mentioned 'The Magic Lantern Guide to the D700' by Simon Stafford. ISBN 1600594980 . It is much more 'readable' than the manual that comes with the camera and I found I was more likely to pick it up for a moment or two and find out something interesting. I wouldn't see myself reading the manual cover to cover - something about the small print and small pages - but learned a lot from this book. Well worth the £10 extra investment.<br>

Also, good choice of camera - I have used mine a lot in the last couple of years and it was well worth the investment.<br>

Marc</p>