paul_osgood

I've used mine occationally (great vacation camera - it fits in a jacket pocket) for almost 20 years. The camera is closed by pressing down on a bar on the front cover. The bar has a circular point on each end. To close the camera, both of these circular spots should be pressed at the same time, then close it. I use my index and middle finger and this is a very natural motion. After learning this from the repair man 10 years ago I've had no more problems. Prior to this I had to have the shutter linkage repaired or reset twice.

Although it's probably not good to experiment, a few times when I have not cocked the shutter or focused to infinity the camera simply did not even start to close. No damage is done unless you try to force it closed. If it doesn't readily start to close, it's a good signal that I've forgotten one of these steps - just re-focus and wind the shutter (advance the film), then close.

Yes - the filter attaches to the lens shade, and the camera won't fold. It's not a great design. Also, since the metering is not through the lens, you'll have to apply any filter factor manually. I have both filters and shade but rarely use either.

Has anyone tried a small area 'negative ion' air cleaner device. My Epson 3200 scanner is in a small 'dirty' room, with book cases and computer equiptment. Such devices are inexpensive - one at Sharper Image is $40....Thanks

In July I'll be spending 2 weeks in the Canadian Rockies doing

landscape (rather than wildlife) photography with a Pentax 67. While

I generally like the enhanced colors of Velvia, I have some concerns

regarding it being able to handle the wide contrast range. While I'd

be tempted to use a polarizer to reduce the glare coming from the

snowy peaks, I'm concerned that it will cause the sky to become too

dark. The best transparencies will be drum scanned and the digital

files printed. I'll also shoot some of the more contrasty scenes

with Reala since it will better handle the contrast - but I'll not

have these drum scanned and will wait to get my own scanner at some

point in the future. I�ll use neutral densities filters only when

there is a straight line separating the brighter parts from the

lighter (it looks unnatural otherwise). Would Provia 100F better

handle the contrast? � By how much (1/2 a stop?). Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Just to set the record straight: John is correct. The GS645 models are the older non AF models (and not GA645). I've been v happy with both.

I have a GA645w - Great lens, very compact camera for MF. Scale focusing only (no rangefinder) - usually not an issue since considerable depth of field. Has internal meter. I use it only for travel (have a Pentax67 for landscape). It's a lot cheaper than a Hassy and more compact.

 

Also have a GA645 folder - which is my other travel camera - Have had some mechanical problems, but like it enough to have it repaired. (With the folding mechanism it's a bit more fragile.) It's even smaller than the GA645w - it will fit into a sport coat pocket.

Over the past 12 years that I've had my P67 I've had to send it to Pentax twice. The job was done right. They'll look at it and send you an estimate asking for your approval. You return the form and they'll start the repair. It took about about 6 weeks.

I've been using the P67 for 12 years with 45mm, 75mm and 135mm for landscapes. Most of my exposures are in the 1/15 - 1sec range. I always shoot with the mirror locked up. In addition I press on the prism when I trip the shutter (this is probably not always necessary - just a little insurance particularly in wind). As with any medium format camera it's important to have a good tripod (e.g. Gitzo,Bogen) and head (e.g. Arca Swiss).

Although I've used the Pentax67 for many years, I would not recommend it unless used with a tripod. The hassy may be better handheld. Another alternative in 67: Mamiya 67 - Since this has no mirror it can be used at slower shutter speeds hand held - though I can't speak to how durable it is. You might want to consider a spare body. I carry a second P67 as it would be a bummer to have to curtail even a week of shooting in the US. For foreign travel I carry 2 Fuji 645 rangefinders (older models - no zoom - one wide angle and one normal) - very compact, easily hand holdable, quite and a few more shots/roll.

Chin - According to the Kodak site the pro photo CD scanner is being replaced. The new scanner is the HR500. It did not appear that the results were in the 'image pack' format. The maximum resulting file size is 128MB. Although there are currently many processors doing PhotoCD, this is like to decrease over time.

B1 will do the job. I've used the B1 for 12 years with the P67, including the 135. I agree with the previous post: lock up the mirror and use a cable release. good luck.

I have to agree with the previous post - medium format is a different animal. Although the Pentax 67 looks and even feels like an overgrown 35mm, it isn't. Besides the flash issue you mentioned, it's happier on a tripod (with the mirror locked up) - the large mirror causes vibrations. In addition, for a given angle of view there is considerably less depth of field (this applies to all medium format, not just the Pentax). I'd agree with the Fuji Ellis recommended - I have 2 of the older non-zoom versions and have been pleased with them.

I'm interested in making high quality digital 16x20 prints from 6x7

negatives. (Although I can't afford a 16 inch wide printer I'd still

like to scan for that size (in hopes tha Epson will come out with

one at a reasonable $) in the mean time I'll either send out the

digital files to be printed or get an Epson 1280/2000 (13 inch wide).

 

Now the math part:

 

At 300dpi for a 16x20 my file size should be: 16x300x20x300x3=86.4MB.

(actually a bit larger to allow for cropping).

 

To scan a 6x7 at 2400bpi will give me an image size of:

2.16x2400x2.75x2400x3=102.6MB (since a 6x7 is actually 55x70mm or

2.16x2.75 inches).

 

It seens that I should focus on scanning at 2400. I'm starting to

research if there are any high quality 2400dpi medium format scanners

on the market in the under $1500 range (but that's another post).

 

I'd also consider the kodak Pro Photo CD, but that is limited to 55MG

for a 6x7 negative, considerably smaller than the above mentioned

86MB. I've rejected drum scanning since my images are negatives, and

drums work better with transparencies (also, the cost is high if I'm

doing 100 images).

 

Question: Is my math and thinking correct? ...Thanks

I can recommend the Pentax 6x7 assuming you'll use it on a tripod. I've been using it for landscapes for the past 12 years. The mirror is large and you should lock it up before shooting. (Very old models do not have a lock up feature). The new Pentax 67II has a more modern metering system (when the metering prism is purchased). It also has an improved film wind system. Since I use the camera on a tripod, I find using a hand held spot meter more convenient: I first compose the shot, then I can take spot readings of parts of the scene to check the contrast range as the light changes. With this method of working I have little need for the metering prism. This camera has proven to be very rugged and has not given me a problem in the 12 year I've had it. ... Hope this helps.

I've read a number of threads on the Pentax digital spot - Zone VI

modified meter. Some have indicated that the filter pack compensates

for the color sensitivity of B&W films and does not work well with

color films. I've used this meter for 5 years (shooting color

negatives) and think it's great.

I'm about to send it to Calumet for servicing (recalibrate, clean

etc). Question: Should I have them remove the filter pack? Would

this be an improvement when working in color?

I use a Pentax Digital Spot (a 1 degree meter). Since the EV is visible in viewfinder, you can click on a highlight and then on a shadow area and just subtract to get the brightness range (to assure that it's within the film's range). When the light is rapidly changing, constantly doing this check will tell you when to shoot.

I just bought 50 rolls from Adorama for my freezer.

David,

 

Sorry, I don�t understand: �look for a lab that will give you 4050 scans outside of the PhotoCD imagepak file format�. I thought that YCC was the format used for PhotoCD, although it can converted to other color spaces such as RGB or LAB�..Thanks

I�m trying to decide between having 6x7 (and occasionally 645)

negatives scanned using Kodak Pro Photo CD (highest resolution) or

drum scans. I plan on having the final images (some will be

manipulated on my home computer) printed on a LightJet 5000. I am

leaning toward the Pro Photo CD for several reasons:

- Since I shoot negatives (Fuji Reala) the 3.2 dynamic range

shouldn�t be too much of a problem.

- I plan to use Picture Window to load the images into my computer

(thereby avoiding the �lost highlights problem� (see

http://tedfelix.com/PhotoCD/Index.html)

- The smaller files (55MB for 6x7) should be easier to work with than

much larger drum scans.

- The price difference better suites my pocketbook and will allow me

to print more negatives. I have perhaps 50 images.

- Recommendations? Pros/Cons?

Just called B&H in NY - they said they had it in stock (120 size) at 1.99!

About a year ago I had heard that Reala 120 was being discontinued and contacted Fuji USA via telephone. They confirmed that it would no longer be imported into the US. I then called several photo mail order places and found that they were still able to get it. Perhaps other mail order companies will still import it. I too am bummed - it's a good film.