michael_max

<p>Good point David. I am coming from the perspective of an art student feeling my way around cameras and formats. I learned a lot about cameras and photography on the way and have gone back to a holga (kids on halloween) and an RB (studio closeups) to get the results I was looking for.</p>

<p>Just to add food for thought:<br>

* the Contacts DVD with Cartier-Bresson has him discussing the decisive moment with his contact sheets shown on screen. very illuminating.<br>

* Warhol's screen test films function as still images but no one argues that they are not cinema. its the space between the still image and cinema that make this work successful<br>

* Douglas Gordon's "24 hour psycho" has hitchcock's film functioning as still frames, and again, its the space between the still and the moving image that makes this work successful</p>

<p>Was it Barthes or Godard who said, to paraphrase: in cinema, reality passes before the frame. In photography, reality is suspended, frozen within the frame.<br>

As the tools we work with become more sophisticated and hybridized, the end result is the still the same: either a moving image or a still image.<br>

claims of a "new art form" is hyperbole.</p>

<p>Great work. The owls are my favorite. Perhaps a bit heavy on the background blur? The birds appear overly detatched from their natural habitat. The photoshelter web app is easy on the eyes. Is there any way to use non-progressive jpegs instead of progressive?</p>

<p>My overall critique is: I would work on improving your photography skills before you invest time and money into marketing your services online.<br>

More specifically:<br>

There is dust on the black and white images in the homepage animation.<br>

Smugmug has taken over your website with promotional links and logos.<br>

Consider learning how to make thumbnails and galleries yourself.<br>

Giant "PROOF" text and giant logos on the images not good.<br>

Pare down your portfolio to only the best images.<br>

There's a lot of so-so focus and not very good lighting in your portfolio.<br>

Don't use spot color.<br>

Whiten any less-than-white teeth.<br>

katherinemcphersonphotography.smugmug.com is really much too long an url.<br>

someone else is already using kmphotography.com so consider changing your "km photography" logo.<br>

The music on your blog startled me and I closed the window immediately rather than figure out where the music was coming from and try to turn it off.</p>

<p>Mate, you are on the right path by experimenting with inexpensive cameras. If you buy used, you can always sell it for about the same price and try other cameras until you find the right one for you. I started with a Holga ($30, fun but too unpredictable), moved on to a Mamiya RB67 ($300, too big for me) and settled on a Mamiya 7 ($$$). That Kiev 60 looks like a lot of fun.</p>

<p>Jim you are correct! Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks for the info.<br>

I found freestyle photo online and got the last one they had in stock. They mentioned supplies of darkroom stuff are running thin because schools are ordering for the upcoming semester. You would think for the obscene profit margins on neg carriers they would have mountains of them stockpiled for suckers like me.<br>

Jim, I came across that ebay item earlier. It is a 2x2" side carrier. I've never seen a 2X2" slide!<br>

Bob, B&H says they're back ordered for 7 to 14 days. On the phone, Calumet said 3 to 4 weeks. Sheesh!<br>

I tried the number for Beseler but they were closed. Apparently they sell direct. I wonder if they have any? When I saw Beseler's craptastic website complete with spelling errors, I wondered if I had made a big mistake buying their enlarger.<br>

In other news, I went to visit my dad today and he gave me a 6X6 carrier that he's had laying around for 20 years. Thanks dad! A free 6x6 takes the sting off a full price 6x7.<br>

Mike</p>

 

<p>Hi. So I find myself in the presence of an all-new complete darkroom setup. However, I am standing around like chump because I cannot find a 6x7 negative carrier for a Beseler 67.<br>

Adorama? Backorder. B&H? Backorder. Calumet? Backorder. Amazon? No. Ebay? No.<br>

Can anyone suggest alternative retailers (or sell me one)?<br>

Can I devise something out of tin foil and a popsicle stick maybe?<br>

Mike</p>

<p>Thanks Robert. I am shooting more than ever and my work has a totally new look. No more precious formalism. Very loose.</p>

<p>oh happy day. i got my mamiaya 7 today. thanks everyone for the feedback.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I'll delay the gratification of the 7II a bit longer so I can have them both.</p>

<p>I'm going to buy a Mamiya 7II and can't wait to get my hands on it.<br>

However, to help fund it, I am going to sell my cumbersome RB67 kit. I love it for its funky, clunky look and modularity. But it just doesn't get used as much as it should.<br>

So my question... is there any reason I would regret getting rid of the RB? I think the 7II will do everything I want. The obvious tradeoff is not being able to switch out a film back and losing the giant viewfinder. Is there something I'm forgetting that will make me weep for the days-of-RB-past once I dump it?<br>

Appreciate your thoughts.<br>

Mike</p>

<p>I re-shot the roll and indeed I was advancing the film before closing the shutter on the time exposure setting.</p>

<p>I think I was advancing the film before I manualy closed the shutter (or pressed the lever which would have closed then cocked the sutter). I shot another couple of rolls tonight and will report back shortly. Thx.</p>

<p>Greetings. After shooting some long exposures using the T setting, I have noticed that exposures are streaking over onto the next frame. I can't figure out why this is happening.<br>

I learned that T does not behave the same way as B and that I need to close the shutter (by moving the ring to 1 second or moving the lever slightly forward).<br>

However, this does not explain the streaking / ghosting of an exposure on the next frame. Am I doing things in the wrong order at the wrong time?<br>

Before I knew I had to close the shutter, I was simply cocking the shutter by fully depressing the lever and then advancing the film. In theory, this would also CLOSE the shutter and then re-open it when the light baffle was down and the mirror was up.<br>

Should I close the shutter, advance the film and then wait to cock the shutter when I am ready to make my next exposure?<br>

Thanks.</p>