ronald_muscio
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Posts posted by ronald_muscio
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<p>Back in the day, I had two Nikon F's. One was a '68 with std. prism and the other a '72 with the FTn meter prism. On the '72 the lower corners were milled out so the clamping pin could secure it. If you notice the small lever on the front of the FTn prism will flex the lower clamping pins in and out. So when you slide the FTn prism on the spring loaded pins just clamped on to the lower nameplate, and to remove it you pushed in the small lever on the front, along with pushing the button on the rear of the body to release the prism. I'm not sure, but there might have been some differences on the side of the nameplate also. You definitely have to replace the name plate for the FTn prism to mount on a '68 F body.</p>
<p>I hope this helps,<br>
Ron</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>I almost always have the 24-85VR or Sigma 24/f1.8 or AFS 50/1.4 on my camera.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><br /> I think you answered your own question. Take the lenses you usually use. I personally don't see the need for a 300mm focal length in Chicago. I'm not a fan of variable aperture, super zoom lenses anyway.</p>
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<p>Lex..........Thanks for your response.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Has anyone had a similar problem with the thumb rest coming loose from the body? Has anyone had success with re-gluing and what did you use?</p>
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<p>I'm not familiar with the D60, but most all of the Nikon DSLRs have a menu option of full, 1/2 or 1/3 stops. Therefore, if you have this option set at 1/3 stop you will use the dial on the camera to cycle through the aperture range to set whatever stop you want from 1.8, 2.2,2.5,2.8,3.2,3.5,4.0, etc all the up to 22.0. I don't remember which menu, but either the custom, shooting or set-up menu should have it.</p>
<p>I hope this helps.</p>
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<p>I have a D7000 and have never experienced anything like this?? You could reverse the aperture/shutter speed dials in custom settings, but that would probably just having you alter the aperture instead.</p>
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<p>Another vote for the UpStrap........I use the wider one with the quick release clips and over the shoulder only. They are not meant to be around the neck as the nubs on the shoulder pad irritate if use for long periods. When a longer lens is attached, I reverse the camera so the lens rides behind my back and above my hip. Very secure for walking through crowds.<br>
<br />I tried a Black Rapid version, but didn't like the camera dangling upside down and flopping around when walking, unless you held the camera.</p>
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<p>I would sell your 18-55, 55-200 and the 18-200 and get the new 70-200/4 VR, fantastic lens.</p>
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<p>I would get the 70-200/4 and then carry the 35/1.4 with you for the speed/moderate WA. That should pretty well cover most any situation. Another body will just add more weight with carrying two bodies with two lenses, and the 70-200 will provide versatility. Just my 2 cents.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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<p>I had a 28-105/3.5 AF d years ago. Loved the lens, but hated the HB-48 hood.<br>
All the hoods mentioned are for 62mm size. I don't know what the HB+1 and HB-27 look like, but the 27 is for the 28-100/3.5 whereas the 1 is for the 35-70/2.8. So I would assume that the HB-27 would be a better choice for a 28-105/3.5 AF d.</p>
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<p>Nikon 16-35/4.0 AFs VR gets my vote.</p>
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<p>On my 80-200/2.8 it's on the aperture ring. There should be an area with no knurling and the number is engraved there. I assume that is the case with all lenses.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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<p>Canon S100......</p>
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<p>Sounds like the problem myself and many other MB-D80 users have had. Camera has no power even with fully charged Nikon batteries on board. This apparently does not happen with the AA batteries, as the middle contact relays that Nikon batteries are in use. The middle contact in the camera body well needs to be moved in line with the other two. I don't have the URL right now, but search on "MB-D80 problems" in the Nikon Forum for further info. I just rectified mine today and so far it's working fine.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
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Fitting a Photomic FTN finder to an earlier F
in Nikon
Posted
<p>Back in the day, I had two Nikon F's. One was a '68 with std. prism and the other a '72 with the FTn meter prism. On the '72 the lower corners were milled out so the clamping pins could secure it. If you notice the small lever on the front of the FTn prism, it will flex the lower clamping pins in and out. So when you slide the FTn prism on the spring loaded pins just clamped on to the lower nameplate, and to remove it you pushed in the small lever on the front, along with pushing the button on the rear of the body to release the prism. I'm not sure, but there might have been some differences on the side of the nameplate also. You definitely have to replace the name plate for the FTn prism to mount on a '68 F body.</p>
<p>I hope this helps,<br>
Ron</p>