larry_ricks

<p>Also, they have chroma key unitards with hoods. I think I've seen them on Ebay.</p>

<p>Photogenic Studio Max III (3) and a Fancier (Steve Kaeser Brand) which is also 300 w/s. I did have softboxes on them at first (duh), but when I took them off and put on the reflectors, I still didn't get the same effect. I will try again tomorrow, and I will also let them warm up first.</p>

<p>Thanks for letting me know the variables. By the way, I have monolights. Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hello all. I was thinking that if I set one of my strobes (GN 170) to max power, and took measurement with my light meter at 10 feet, I should get f17. I'm coming up with f7.1 one on my meter. So how do I determine which is wrong? I have a used Minolta Flash Meter II, which can be calibrated (minor) if necessary. I forgot to mention the meter settings ISO100, Shutter @ 1/125.</p>

<p>Hello April,<br>

I have 3 of these, they work fine. The reflector is not fixed (what reflector?). The modeling lamp just gives you a little idea of the results. In the end depend on your flash meter. My color temp is consistent, but if it wasn't, which happens to me outside from time to time, I would correct it in PP. The stands aren't tall enough is subjective depending on what you want to do with them. If you need taller stands just call them and ask them to give you a deal with taller stands. They will work with you. This guy does stand behind his product, and offers a warranty. I would call them rather than email. I will post some results tomorrow if you would like. Hell, I'm going to do it anyway.</p>

<p>Wow! I went outside to play with my new lens, and I was at my computer, saying to myself, "Let me see if I got any response." I am overwhelmed and surprised at the responses.<br>

I see there are a few minor disagreements on a definite answer, but I do get the point. You need 4 times your initial flash power to double the GN. I was asking this question just to see if I could speed the setup of lights, as far as distance is concerned. I do use a meter, but it was just a crazy thought that came to my mind.<br>

Just a little depressed the Eagles aren't in the Superbowl. I had to focus on something else. LOL.</p>

<p>I don't know exactly to add them if they are, but if you have multiple studio strobes with a GN of 170 (or different values), how does that add up?</p>

<p>The space I will be shooting in will be about 10' x 15'. Thanks for clearing things up guys.</p>

<p>Thanks Geoff, I just have to decide how much PP I want to do.</p>

<p>Would that be fine for full body, or should I go with something prime and wider?</p>

<p>Ok, I will be taking potrait pictures in a studio with a Rebel XT, and I have read that 85mm is the most flattering for close-up head shots. Whether that is the case or not is not an issue to me. My question is, does that refer to 85mm on a FF sensor camera, or does it apply to all dslr? Should I get the 85mm which would be equivalent to about 136mm on a FF, or should I get a 50mm which would be equivalent to about 80mm on a FF? I want to achieve the most flattering results (ie. no size distortion), I thinking of just getting EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM to cover all my bases. By the way, I'm working with 1200 w/s total in the studio, which really isn't important I think it is the Grey Goose talking. Thanks guys.</p>

<p>Update: Also, <strong>IF</strong> the kit lens were perfect, at 53mm wouldn't it be the same as a 85mm?</p>