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andrew_harto

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Posts posted by andrew_harto

  1. <p>Hello, I need your kind help in sourcing this type of album (photo attached). It weighs over 40 lbs, leather, has a flap closure with magnet to seal the album shut, and photos can be printed on the cover. Does anyone have any idea which vendor(s) (preferably US-based) would be able to supply this type of album?<br /><br />Thank you so much in advance for your help.<br>

    <br>

    <img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j292/aharto/269262_10200382272220278_2013456974_n_zps4a94f51e.jpg" alt="" width="717" height="960" /></p>

  2. <blockquote>

    <p><strong>OP</strong>: Also, the fact he re-sent the pics means nothing, any tog would do the same if it was a simple case of copying files.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Not necessarily so. It is easy to copy, but they are still the photog's intellectual property. Read your contract.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>CONTRACT:<br>

    ...<br>

    4. A complete set of digital files on disk with full printing rights</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p><strong>A </strong>complete set. <strong>One</strong> complete set. Ergo, he did you a kind courtesy by sending the second copy freely. Don't forget that point before you take him to court. Good luck.</p>

  3. <p>I have to agree with <strong>Nish Sivakumar</strong>'s line of thought:</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>"And why waste time suing him. He may have forgotten about this side-clause and accidentally uploaded your images without thinking. Maybe just asking him to take it down would work best. People make mistakes."</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>- Try a simple and firmly worded "cease and desist" email/phone call/letter telling the photog to take down the image from his website, and cite your prior written agreement to that effect. His reaction should tell you if there was any willful intent to break the contract or if it was a correctable and unintentional error.</p>

    <p>- The way I see it, RAW files are far from being finished products. This may or may not be the reason why you are disappointed with the subjective quality of the photos. But really, it may not be the photographer's fault if you don't like the way the RAW files look -- they are unprocessed. Without us looking at the photos, who could say why you think the photos are substantially lesser in quality than the other works on his website. Maybe you got what you paid for.</p>

    <p>- IMHO, the photog did you high courtesy by sending you another set of the RAW files after you lost them. The way I see it, he delivered and fulfilled his end of the contract when you received the hard drive the first time around. The fact that it got damaged was beyond the photog's control and responsibility, so it was within his rights to refuse or ask for additional compensation for the second set. But as I understand, he provided the 2nd set freely.</p>

  4. <p>Wowowow, so many great captures! Love <strong>Jeff Backer</strong>'s caiman crocodile photo...the symmetry and the un-rippled water make the photo look like a Rorschach inkblot where I see a vicious head of a crocodile fixing to attack.</p>

    <p>Mine is from Bali at Besakih Temple. It's the end procession after a solemn and religious Hindu cremation ceremony called "Ngaben". The sky and clouds were real (not composited). The temple is situated on a high elevation on the slopes of a mountain.</p>

    <p><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GUr4-9lAs78/TjGNuFwKICI/AAAAAAAACvM/H7Yj8tCSNWk/s800/Besakih_Temple2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

  5. <p>Jay, I am an Adobe Lightroom user and I agree with what has been said about Lightroom by other good posters above. And I also agree with all that has been said about developing a consistent cataloging and backup practice.</p>

    <p>Just to suggest another option, if you are a casual shooter (i.e. don't do photography professionally or as a serious amateur), you might want to consider <strong>Google Picasa 3</strong> software, which is <strong>free</strong>. It does all that you want (to quote: "I need a simple system for downloading, organizing, backing up, and deleting from my card small batches images."). Picasa allows you to choose what you want to do with the files in the memory card after you've copied them into another location: (1) leave them alone (2) delete only copied photos or (3) delete everything on card. In its heart, Picasa is a cataloging software, but it lets you do so many other cool stuff, too, like digital editing, making collages, backing up files, etc.</p>

    <p>Did I mention that it's free?</p>

  6. <p>@ Ryan Hake, mea culpa. Yes, I agree. Barring any person-to-person interaction, I would also expect the item to be spanking new if it's ordered online. The side discussion that Vitaliy started was about buying things at a brick-and-mortar store, and I thought your comment was in that sense, too.</p>
  7. <p>But Ryan, isn't that just being an unreasonable customer? If the item that you are interested in has no floor model to test with (most bodies have floor models, but many other items don't), wouldn't it be reasonable to ask the salesperson to show you one from an unopened box? I mean, I would be very annoyed if the salesperson said "No, we can't open this item unless you buy it." Why should the retailer take a hit from providing good customer service by willingly opening a new box for you to see? It's just the packaging that's been open. You don't shoot pictures with the packaging.</p>

    <p>At the car dealer, do you tell the dealership that this car is not new because it has 7 miles on it from being test-driven by other potential customers? Most reasonable people don't. Why shouldn't it be the same with cameras, lenses and gears? I don't follow your logic, which seems to be based on some unfounded emotion instead. </p>

  8. <blockquote>

    <p>Also I've never seen in B&H people opening boxes in the store which is usual at Adorama.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>As a consumer and photographer, I'm not quite sure what Vitaliy's problem is with items that have previously been opened <strong>at the store</strong>. If it's only been opened at the store (not a returned or refurbished item), as in when a customer wants to feel the item in his/her hands, and that customer just somehow changed his/her mind on the spot, isn't the item still new and unused? Why should that kind of "open" item be priced or categorized differently than a new one? These are cameras and gears, not food items. My 2 confused cents.</p>

    <p> </p>

  9. <p>Wow. So many interesting images!</p>

    <p>Mine is from last weekend at the Los Angeles Southwest College, where the annual L.A. Watts Summer Games is being held. LAWSG is like the Olympics for California high school athletes. Fun stuff!</p>

    <p><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uaGDL_SKt4s/TfoPN7ujy_I/AAAAAAAACo8/toQc5IfszUE/s800/_MG_0633-Edit-2%252520copy.jpg" alt="" /><br>

    5D | 70-200mm f/4 @ 70mm| 1/500s f/4.0 ISO 100</p>

  10. <p>@ Philip, yeah, I often find myself using the middle af point and recompose when the scene before my eyes flies at a fast pace (sports, events, etc.). But I hate to do this when I'm composing off-center headshots or portraits with razor thin DOF at wide open aperture. Recomposing potentially shifts the plane of critical focus.</p>

    <p>@ Puppy Face, In my experience, the outer AF points tend to hit and miss, so I compensate by refocusing and reshooting the same scene twice or thrice. At least one of them would be properly focused. It's one other thing that I have learned to live with -- but I assume other camera brands have more or less similar af accuracy with the off-center af points.</p>

  11. <p>I shoot with 5D (older version) and 5D Mark II. On both cameras I use the custom function that lets me choose the focusing points by toggling the "multi-controller" (the smaller controller right above the larger rotational "quick control dial" on the camera's back). I often find that choosing the diagonal focus points -- the 10, 2, 5 and 7'o clock -- to be quite tricky. At times, I would miss critical moments while fiddling my thumb trying to get to one of these points.</p>

    <p>Using the main dial (the one above the shutter button) is less tricky, of course, but I don't like the process of having to go through the other focus points to get to the one desired.</p>

    <p>Have others find this to be the case as well? What is the better and quickest way to change focusing points on a 5D/5D2? Your advise is greatly appreciated.</p>

    <p>As an aside, a photographer friend just lost all her Nikon gears through robbery and now is shopping for a new system...a fresh start. I let her borrow my 5D. She also complained about the trickiness of choosing the focus points with the 5D. Nikon bodies, she said, have a much reliable mechanism for choosing the focus points quickly. I wonder why Canon can't match that, or am I missing something?</p>

    <p>Thanks.</p>

  12. <p>@ David Storm: that's a great owl pic! I love it!</p>

    <p>This is a 360 degree panorama of Big Bear Lake, CA, where I found myself at recently. It's an image made out of 44 frames stitched together and post-processed in PS CS5. After each of the 44 images was reduced to 5 megapixels, the final merged file was about 2.9GB large, including all adjustment layers. Click on image to enlarge.<br>

    <a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j292/aharto/80f8534f.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j292/aharto/80f8534f.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" width="800" height="89" /></a><br>

    5D2 | Sigma 50mm 1.4 | 1/250sec f/8.0 ISO 200</p>

  13. <p>Dave, no, I must not be serious because this is not a serious discussion at all. It's actually a silly one. But since you ask, it helps tremendously to mention "classic" or something else once in the beginning of the post and later refer to it as simply a 5Dc or 5D[something]. Read my postings above, and you'll see that's how I tend to make life easier for the OP and other readers to understand my post. I guess I could also refer to them as 5D1 and 5D2, but then esteemed individuals like you probably will shoot it down and say there is no such thing as a 5D Mark 1.</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>Try this...... I have a Canon 5D. I have a Canon 5DMk2. Can you tell them apart?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I can. You can. But can the same be said for others in the audience of all levels? You write for your audience in general, not for yourself or the minority. If I gave the advice that the 5D has an outstanding recall for its mirror assembly, isn't it better for the general audience to know that I am talking about the older version 5D and not the current 5D Mark II? Hence, the usefulness of the made-up designation, whatever it may be.</p>

    <p>"Classic" because it's special? You said that. I didn't.</p>

  14. <p>Dave, you're discussing useless semantics about a made-up designation that help differentiate between the old 5D and the current 5D Mark II. It's meant to help with the flow of discussion so as to spare other posters asking the question "Which 5D are we talking about?" It's used by many other posters as well, and readers intelligent enough should know the purpose of the made-up designation and spend less time arguing about the non-existence or the etymology of the "classic" designation.</p>
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