jonathan_self

<p>"An assistant, with hands". Haha, am I the only one who thinks that's funny?</p>

<p>ok so my workflow should be this?</p>

<ol>

<li>Open my image (i'm using srgb because thats what i shot it in.)</li>

<li>turn on soft proofing using the printer profile.</li>

<li>make edits to image to have the soft proof match my idea of what the print should look like</li>

<li>"convert" the image profile to printer profile.</li>

<li>save image as jpg</li>

<li>post on smugmug</li>

<li>turn off auto color</li>

<li>order prints</li>

</ol>

<p>Ok, so since they are different I need to "convert profile" to the printer profile and then restore the photo from that conversion?</p>

<p>What I really need to know is why is my proof <i><b>preview</b></i> in photoshop different from the photo in photoshop after I actually <i><b>Assign</b></i> the profile?</p>

<p>Hello all. To get start I am using photoshop cs3 on a windows based machine with a calibrated T220 samsung monitor. My color settings are "north american general purpose 2" working space for RGB "sRGB IEC61966-2.1". I calibrated my monitor with a pantone huey pro.<br>

I plan on making my prints using a color profile set up for EZ prints smugmug. I have their ICC set up on my soft proofing options.<br>

Under proof setup I have the simulated ICC device profile, unchecked preserve RGB numbers. For rendering intent I have chosen Perceptual with black point compensation checked. Also simulate paper is checked.<br>

Now my question is this: How come when I check off to view "proof colors" my image looks great on my monitor, but whenever I go to assign the profile as "profile EZ Prints" it makes my images look more pink in color than the "proof colors" option turned on?<br>

Should I be compensating for the image of "proof colors" or the pinker image of "Assign profile"? Or is there something wrong with this whole picture (not photo, but color management).</p>

<p>Ok I figured it out!</p>

<p>1.) I need any triggers made with hotshoe to pc ports on them. Like these <a href="http://www.flashzebra.com/hotshoes-shoes/0065.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.flashzebra.com/hotshoes-shoes/0065.shtml</a> which apparently work great with the sb-600s.<br>

2.) If I use CLS in manual to trigger both sb-600's this doesn't matter.<br>

3.) I can use CLS but only in manual, this then fires the AB-800's optical slave that is built into the monolight like many other monolights. No need for the IR filter by nikon since in manual preflash doesn't occur hence no premature firing from the AB-800 via its optical slave.</p>

<p>Thanks guys, hope this helps the other guys out there searching the forums for answers in the future!</p>

<p>Ok here's my dilemma and a list of questions:<br /> I have just order a new Alien Bees AB-800 monolight that comes with a 3.5 mini-jack to PC plug. To fire this flash I can either use on of my SB-600's (because of the optical trigger built into the AB-800) or I can hook the AB-800 directly to my camera via my AS-15 hotshoe to PC adapter I purchased at the time of getting the AB-800.<br /> I would like to trigger all of my flashes at once (2 SB-600's and the AB-800).<br /> 1.) What optical triggers (exact links to product on bhphoto.com please) do I need to trigger the SB-600s?<br /> 2.) If I do optically trigger the SB-600s, will they sync properly with the AB-800 for the correct exposure time?<br /> 3.) Can I use CLS (If I decide not to use optical slaves on the SB-600's) with the Nikon SG-31R in place to keep the preflash from setting the AB-800 off?</p>

<p>No its fine Chris you are just trying to help me and I appreciate that. Thanks to Godfrey and others for answering all of my questions.</p>

<p>I normally let lightroom backup my files as I import them, so I have them on an external harddrive and my primary computer harddrive. If I notice double imports of photos that lightroom may not have caught at the import stage I delete them from lightroom so they dont take up room on my primary drive and also my backup drive. When I select delete, it prompts me to "delete from disk" and thats normally what I selct. So my question is when I select "delete from disk" does it actually delete the file from the backup too and not just my primary HDD? I promise I tried very hard to look for a similar post like - my question, so please don't flame me for this. Thanks guys.</p>

<p>Hi I'm looking to downgrade my pc's operating system back to XP (if thats truly a downgrade lol). Does anyone have any idea if I need to get xp pro or xp home? If I put 4 gigs of ram in my machine with xp will photoshop recognize I have more ram than xp does, or do I need the memory hungry vista in order to use more memory. It makes me wonder if this will solve my problems, I really just can't stand the startup time on vista which really messes with my workflow time considering I can't just leave my PC on! <br>

I can't afford a Mac so don't even try you Bill Gates hater club (although i dont blame you).<br>

Wow I sound like a newb.</p>

it looks terrible. I'm sure it's a wonderful camera though. Reminds me of one of those crappy Hondas sup'd up. Looks like the band hinder

painted their parts ewwwwww. My immature comment for the day.

hmm thanks a lot guys. this is food for thought...

Yes. Even though you set the pop up as "--" its still going to fire to send the information to your SB600 for it to fire as well. The flash should be firing milliseconds before the actual exposure, so it shouldn't be affecting your exposure. Keep in mind that using it outside will drop the range of what CLS can do by a lot. It is based off of line of sight, so keep the flash infra red port facing your pop-up flash. If you need more range get some pocket wizards or ebay triggers. Hope that helps, maybe more info than you needed...

Hmm, no not at all. I just recently used my mb-d80 on my d80 to shoot a wedding and had no problems. Everything

focused accurately as well. As for the framerate I also shot a youth football game with it with no problems with my

framerate. I'm not sure what you're encountering. I must say the grips shutter release is quite crappy with no halfway point

and I also have issues with it coming loose and i've only had it for a few weeks.

 

I also checked around and saw no one else encountering the same issues. Check the contacts on your grip and make sure

they are clean inside your camera and on the grip itself. Maybe that will solve the problem?

Does anyone know what flash bracket I can get for my nikon d80 with the grip attached. I prefer the grip on for

balance and battery life so I'd prefer to not take it off. I looked at a really right stuff wedding bracket but I can't get

the "L" plate necessary to use it. The only one they specify that works with the D80 is only with the grip off. Is there

another great bracket I can use, or do I just need to take off the grip? This sucks. :(