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mm_sparks

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Posts posted by mm_sparks

    yashica fx-d problem

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Sigurd,

     

    Try the 50/1.7 again with the aperture set at f1.7

     

    With the lens off, is the aperture linkage "snappy" and smooth when you move it?

     

    Sometimes the Yashicas develop problems related to the aperture linkage, so I don't think the mirror is hanging on the back of the lens!

    Can old Fujinon lens be used on any modern Digital SLR?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Andrea,

     

    Tommy's remark about the aperture index cam is important, if you have the Fujinon ST mount lenses. If you try to tighten one of these on your DSLR adapter, you may damage the lens, the adapter, or both, and you will not be able to change the lens aperture. Tommy is right about having to grind it off, although to me that would be a harsh compromise, since you won't be able to use it as intended on the later Fujica SLRs. But I guess you have nothing really to lose with your inexpensive 55mm. . . .(I would never grind off the tab on a rare or unusual ST mt. lens.)

     

    A couple of years ago, I did a work-around on this issue with a Mamiya SX lens, which has a similar indexing cam. I ordered several large size brass washers, and in combination with the M42 adapter I was able to use the lens and retain effective (if not absolute) infinity focus, on a Canon DSLR.

     

    Good luck. . . you can have a lot of fun with old lenses on a DSLR!

    A box of mysteries

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    It's Niagara Falls, on the Canadian side . . . on the right you can just see the block house that's built out almost to the edge.

     

    The other image might be Mesa Verde, but it's not the large site usually represented in photos. I'm sure it could be identified.

     

    Like Gene, there is nothing that gets my dander up like a kid mis-handling a gun, even 50 years on . . .

    Olympus om-G questions

    in Olympus

    Posted

    The OM-G is every inch an OM-System camera. About the only functions not supported by OM accessories are TTL flash and power rewind with the MD2. Even so, you can use T Series flashes and both Motor Drives and both winders.

     

    The only "non-system" OM mount body is the OM-2000, and even this will take and meter all OM candy you can fit to the lens mount.

    OM-1 flash photography

    in Olympus

    Posted

    Well the OM-1 is not the best camera for flash. Especially with fixed output flash, and I am guessing that the PS200 has no thyristor control. Correct me if I'm wrong!

     

    For what the T20 is going for thee days I would pick one up for $15. Since you don't have the flash signal incorporated into the OM-1"N" then probably any decent flash with an "Auto" setting will do. The AUTO setting on these non-dedicated units is something of a gamble, but with a 50mm lens and fast film you are playing as safe as you can. The suggestion to experiment is good. Make sure you don't overexpose the subjects in the middle of a dark room . . . take a close look at the negatives. And go ahead and shoot at 1/15 or even 1/8. The ambient light will get picked up, but your main subjects will still be frozen solid. Who knows maybe the bride will like your stuff better.

    2x3 crown graphic

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    The 101mm focal length provides "normal" angle of view for 2X3.

     

    I would stick with what you have. I would also use it the way most press guys did; use a fast film, stop down, and don't enlarge too much. You can get fabulous 8 X 12's.

     

    The roll backs--even the lever wind-- will not hold the film critically flat. I would not open up more than f11, unless for deliberate effect.

     

    Have fun.

    Konica t camera

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    The "T" may be the T1 or the T2; only the T1 has the power switch on the back. The T2 has a number of improvements and is the only one that should be sought out as a user nowadays.

     

    Advantages: The Copal Square shutter is reliable and practically indestructible. You get mirror and diaphragm prefire with the self timer. The lenses are good, and cheap. The autoexposure linkage (powered by your finger!) is pretty accurate if it's still working. The T and T3 have a short viewfinder blackout period, unlike the later Konicas.

     

    Disadvantages: Many (most) of the meters are dead now, or the leads corroded. The viewfinders are kinda dim, and heavily cropped. The advance mechanisms have a tendency to lock up intermittently, or permanently.

     

    You can have a lot of fun with these for almost no money.

    OM-3 mirror vignette

    in Olympus

    Posted

    Hmm... now I would say that the shutter is "capping" but only at the top (or bottom?) rail. In other words, the first and second curtain are pinched together at the start (or end?) of their travel, but only at one rail. It's more pronounced at higher speeds because the curtains are closer together.

     

    You can localize the problem by taking off the lens, opening the back, and look through the shutter at an older TV set or CRT monitor. Stand back and position yourself and the camera so that you can see the exact width of the TV screen through the 36mm film area. Take a look at all the speeds faster than 60, and you will see a diagonal band that, on a properly running shutter, will be even (but progressively thinner) as you approach 1/1000. You can do the same thing by turning the camera vertically, but now you will get a band that runs straight across. The problem will show up where the band, in either orientation, is clipped short.

     

    In any case I think it needs professional help : (

    camera leather .com still around?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Andrew,

     

    Thanks for the BlueWho tip. I've had a bunch of suggestions. There are just too many choices, really.

     

    You are right, sort of, about the WHOIS lookup. Network Solutions won't respond to the more active WHOIS portals because they are mostly used by bots to harvest data. You can find me at Network Solutions own portal, or from domaintools:

     

    http://whois.domaintools.com/cameraleather.com

     

    http://www.networksolutions.com/whois/index.jsp

     

    Cheers--Morgan

    CameraLeather.com's website doesn't work?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Fellas & gals . . .

     

    I posted this on the Leica sheet, but I'll repeat it here:

     

    Cameraleather.com is still registered to me, and very much in business. But since late Saturday, the site is down, along with all sites hosted at Powerful Hosting in Santa Monica. (Some of their clients are out tens of thousands of $$$.) To our customers, I am very sorry for this nightmare. We're in the midst of prying the domain away from Powerful Hosting, and any suggestions from PNetters for a reliable hoster would be appreciated.

     

    In the mean time if you need to reach Cameraleather please contact me at cameraleather@comcast.net And please tell your friends!

     

    And Jon--I think I have some Autocord pics on my laptop.

     

    Cheers,

    Morgan

    camera leather .com still around?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    "I did a whois lookup on the "www.cameraleather.com" TLD and... it doesn't appear to be registered anymore"

     

    Whoa! . . . last time I looked (2 min. ago) it was still registered to . . . ME. (No offense, Andrew :)

     

    Since late Saturday, this has been a nightmare for me and all the other clients of Powerful Hosting. It started when a few complex sites crashed on IE7 becasue of some lapsed security certificates. My site limped along fine for awhile on account of my Neanderthal HTML. We are in the midst of prying my domain away from Powerful Hosting, and any suggestions from PNetters for a reliable hoster would be appreciated.

     

    In the mean time if you need to reach Cameraleather please contact me at cameraleather@comcast.net And please tell your friends!

     

    Cheers--Morgan

    Epson 4490 - is it any good?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I have some very old 3X4 (116) negs, for which the 4490 is perfectly suited. The DOF (at least on my unit) is good enough that I can place them directly on the glass.

     

    If you can, try an older version of Vuescan, which has been very buggy with the 4490. The latest V. 8.4.03 ("Fixed problem with B/W scans on Epson 4490") won't work on my system. I'm using V. 8.3.82, and the ICE does a pretty good job on color neg.

    OM-4Ti & Winder 2 incompatible ?

    in Olympus

    Posted

    Sounds like a classic OM "combination problem" where certain drives will work with certain bodies on certain days only. There is a switch on the bottom of the body that can get out of whack. I had the same problem on an OM-2S. You need to have the body serviced.

    Question on old Ascor QC4 or QC8 power pack.

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    I'm donating an old Ascor light QC4 to a local group, and while going

    over it I noticed the modeling lights are always on during power-up.

    There is a switch to turn the modeling lights on/off, but they can be

    turned off only if the unit isn't powered up.

     

    I placed "QC8" in the subject line because I think it's set up in a

    similar way. Is there's any way to kill the modeling lights while

    shooting, other than by unscrewing them?

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