boris_miljevic

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>Can anyone help me with calculation of running costs for Epson R2880</p>

<p>Now I am using Epson photo papers:<br>

a.) Epson A3+ Photo Paper - 20 sheets - 28,80 EUROS (1,44 per sheet)<br>

b.) Epson A3+ Premium Glossy Photo Paper - 20 sheets - 40,80 EUROS (2,04 per sheet)<br>

c.) Epson 10x15cm Premium Semi-Gloss Photo Paper - 50 sheets - 8,40 EUROS (0.17 per sheet)</p>

<p>Ink costs 13.68 EUROS per cartrige (123,12 per set)</p>

<p>I brought the R2880 yesterday, and i dont know how much full color prints (lets say A3+) i will get from one set of R2880 inks...so i cant place the price for clients, and i already got 5 of them on hold... :)</p>

<p>Tnanks John!<br>

That is about it...underexposing the background and perfect metering on a subject.<br>

I have checked and found out that they were using 3 strobes attached to "cross" light stands directly aiming at the subjects with 3 softlight dishes on strobes...</p>

<p>No, every photo is a single shot on location with medium format camera and digital backs.<br>

Nothing is mounted on picures, even cards were there on location. I know there was some post editing involved after, but 95% of everything you can see in raw file from the camera.<br>

That is the main thing why i am asking this. :)</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Here we go again...thousand or more posts with tag HOW CAN I GET THIS EFFECT :))))<br>

Anyway...<br>

Anyone can tell me how to use strobes to get those perfectly lighted subjects and little bit of darkened background shooting at clear skies day (not at evening)?<br>

You can google "Campari Calendar 2008" and go to pictures...shooting Eva Mendes for Campari.<br>

So my main question is how to get this effect outdoo.<br>

With high speed synchronization of 3 strobes with beauty dishes attached or something else...<br>

I saw a few photo sessions with this kind of images. Shooting during the bright and sunny day, and then the final product has a great lighten subject, but the background is darkened...like shooting was at nighttime<br>

Anyone can explain this to me, before i purchase Profoto strobes and remotes :)</p>

<p>Thank you very very much for your time and you answer.<br>

I have carefully read all you wrote here, and now i see more clearly...i agree with everything you have wrote :)<br>

Thank you Joseph, now i think ill chase RX's :)</p>

<p>Outside model shots for models book, most of the time, maybe some night portraits and fashion shots.<br>

Main reason of buying these is that i shot on film, and i dont have nervs to gamble with chinesse flashes that i got...and then i got a lot on my mind....will pic be ok after triggerin flashes, will strobes be correctly set for every shot on different type of film roll,...<br>

I just want to know can these lights work with ISO 160 or 400 films that i am using with Mamiya, and will i get great shots during the day and evening...<br>

I have never used such type of halogen lights before, so i dont know what i am facing...</p>

<p>Nothing wrong at all, they are chinesse :)<br>

but I also have to spend 1 hour just to set those strobes for different films for Mamiya, and then to pray that photos will be ok, because i shoot on film, and then i need 15 or more days before i collect enough finished 120 rolls and drive for 200 miles to get negatives, scans and pictures...</p>

<p>p.s.<br>

This is a 4x1000W Luxman S306 kit, each head has 1000W halogen bulb inside.</p>

<p>p.s.<br>

This is a 4x1000W Luxman S306 kit, each head has 1000W halogen bulb inside.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I need a little help...<br>

I have found these video lights at local store<br>

http://www.fotodiskont.rs/kategorija/studijska-220v-4x1000w-kit-89/strana-1.html<br>

...so i need your opinion...are those useful with medium format camera - Mamiya 645 AFD (i use 120 roll films).<br>

So my main question is...will i get great outdoor and studio shots using these 4x1000W lights, or should i stick with my 3x600Ws flashes?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I need a little help...<br>

I have found these video lights at local store<br>

http://www.fotodiskont.rs/kategorija/studijska-220v-4x1000w-kit-89/strana-1.html<br>

...so i need your opinion...are those useful with medium format camera - Mamiya 645 AFD (i use 120 roll films).<br>

So my main question is...will i get great outdoor and studio shots using these 4x1000W lights, or should i stick with my 3x600Ws flashes?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Thank you so much for your response.<br>

Like i wrote it is AF I mode (Mamiya 645 AFD I) with Sekor AF 80mm 2.8 lens.<br>

My budget is like this...<br>

1. is to buy a AF-S Nikkor 16-35mm F4 VR to complete my Nikon FF gear, and to buy R3880 Epson printer<br>

or<br>

2. to buy Mamiya 645 AFD kit, R2880 Epson printer and Epson V700 scanner.<br>

That is the thing that bothers me...same amount of money...two options...<br>

I must spend exact amount of money on Epson gear according to my business plan. And 1 Epson 3880 is same like R2880 + V700 here. For rest of money there are two options also 16-35 for Nikon or Mamiya kit...<br>

Hope you understand this post :)</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I need a little help. I have about 2000+ euros budget for photo printer and scanner.<br>

I need a good photo printer, lets say A3+ or A2+ format, and also a good scanner that can scan 6x4.5 negatives.<br>

So does anyone know a good combination...<br>

I need really great output on both.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I am now in a position to buy Mamiya 645 AFD 1 from my friend. The camera is new (shot 5 rolls only), and i will also get 80mm AF Sekor lens, and two film adapters,...so my question is...is it worth buying.<br>

At the present i have Nikon D700 and D60, with AF 50mm f/1.8D, AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8, AF-S 70-200mm VRII, 18-135mm...<br>

My job is to shoot various stuff, from model book shots, studio, to creative nature landscapes for big prints,...<br>

So can 645AFD help me to get some better quality and more wow shots.<br>

My plan is to get 645, get some 120 rolls, and a good 6x4.5 scanner so i can scan all negatives after filming.<br>

So what do you think is this a really bad move or...<br>

In the end we are talking about 600-700 euros for whole pack.<br>

p.s.1 Which scanner is good for the job?<br>

p.s.2 Sorry for my bad english :)</p>

<p>First two months after buying my D700 i was shooting 95% of the time with A, now i shoot in M mode all the time. Lets just say that i dont feel confident using other modes on my camera :)</p>

<p>In D700 MENU set flash to Commander or Manual Mode (must be betwwen 1/16 and 1/64 power to sync).<br>

Go to SB800 MENU on your flash unit, and set SU-4 ON.<br>

You will than be able to choose between AUTO and MANUAL flash power on SB800...<br>

In that way you can trigger SB with your pop-up flash on your Camera.</p>

<p>Here is one for this WednesdayPic :)</p><div></div>

<p>Yes, now i am sure that it has to do something with flash sync...thank you all. You are very kind.</p>

<p>Hi again...<br>

Just want to say that i have no problems with my own flashes and D700...everything works fine...i have exact same flash heads as my Canon friend...but i need to set the flashes completely different to get great pictures. <br>

I am just confused by all this stuff, and that is the reason why i am trying to understand this big difference in results between D700 and 40D.<br>

Later I asked him to lower down ISO to 125 on Canon, and i was on ISO-400 on D700...underexposed again on D700 comparing with 40D...with same shutter and aperture settings on both.<br>

So i need maybe ISO-1000 to match exact exposure with those lights, positions,...<br>

I was trying to trigger flashes with pop-up flash from D700 in Commander mode and with cable trigger also...it is almost the same.</p>

 

<p>Thanks Michael.<br>

Why are you all stuck to ISO AUTO??? :)<br>

Who is using ISO-auto anyway...</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Thank you for all your responses...<br>

From this i can see that it could be a flash-sync problem...nothing else...<br>

Everything else was in FULL Manual mode.<br>

p.s.<br>

Is there difference between spot, centerw or matrix metering when camera is in MANUAL mode???<br>

How that can be when both shutter and aperture, and all other in-camera parameters are set from photographer manually?</p>

 

<p>Everything looks so great this week :)<br>

Here is mine...</p><div></div>

<p>I have tested one like this.<br>

Tripod, landscape and a long exposure - with VR on you should get really bad results in tree movement when is windy...opposite to a normal movement blures of trees in wing...<br>

Just try with VR on, and VR off...you should see the difference instant...</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>This week I was at this photo session. My friend was shooting some fashion photography...<br>

Anyway, here's what is that i dont understand...<br>

He was taking photographs with 2 studio flash lights (600Ws) and a Canon 40D, and his camera setup was:<br>

Manual mode: S: 200, A: 3.2, ISO-200, EV0, spotmet,...<br>

Then i took my D700 with the same lens, flashes, setup, everything, same time, same location...<br>

Manual mode: S: 200, A:3.2 ISO-200, EV0, spotmetering...<br>

The results are so different, everything, my pictures, compared to his are underexposed by 2 or more stops...<br>

There was so much more light and natural looking in his display...</p>

<p>Can anyone explain this to me...i know i am using totally different and FX sensor, but so much difference in same scene, location, lights, everything, everything...what would flashmeter read then :)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Here is my One-Eyed Bee :)</p><div></div>