nico_lilien

<p>His physics teaching makes me want to go back to school and study physics.<br>

I thought this lecture on "Polarization: Lightwaves, Rainbows and Cheap Sunglasses" by Walter Lewin Professor of Physics, might be of interest.<br>

http://mitworld.mit.edu/video/74/<br>

Enjoy, Nico</p>

<p>Today I bought 2 Wacom Bamboo Pen CTL-460 tablets. I'm using it right now after a small check of basic functions in Lightroom.<br /> I want to experience this at work too (administrative job and got a good deal EUR 100 for both).<br /> The active area of 6x4" synchronized with the 27" display. No more picking up the mouse for multiple short movements acros the screen (and running out of desk space).<br /> Again, thanks for your help!<br /> Regards, Nico<br>

Havent' grabbed the mouse for an hour, so far so good!</p>

<p>Many thanks. Again helpful instant clarification, love PN!<br>

I forgot to mention my aim is primarily to get rid of the mouse. I usually end up holding it firmly, for example when moving sliders or manipulating curves.<br>

Nothing professional going on here, just having fun learning.<br>

Regards, Nico</p>

<p>Hi there!<br>

Previous post helped me decide to get a: 6x8", wired, lower res & pressure sensitivity type Wacom baboo/Intuous pen tablet of about $100.<br>

So, today I went shopping but returned emptyhanded. In these posts I failed to notice what the active area size should be.<br>

My intention is to replace the mouse on my 27" iMac working with Lightroom.<br>

So, does size matter and if so wich size would you recommend for a 27" screen?<br>

Regards, Nico</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Recently photographed my friend's daughter 1st birthday. Just for fun, as a guest.<br /> I used my 40D + 50mm. It was midday, sunlit and shadowy beneath a tree.<br /> I felt that the field of view of the 50 was too small, but very up- close shots with 'half' guests does take the viewer inside the action...<br /> And it is a wonderful portrait lens on a 40D! I had lot's of fun watching and documenting the playing kids.<br /> Looking back I found a lot over exposed shots mostly because I used spot metering (I think). Partial metering would've been better in a contrast rich environment as the manual says...<br /> Of course I'm largely to blame. I ignored the blinking and the histogram peaks at the right, expecting Lightroom to fix all my 'expose to the right' attempts. <br /> I did buy a 28mm 2.8 (second hand) a couple of weeks later. But the image quality of the 50, well I guess you know...<br /> I didn't bring a flash, sorry I can't be of help here.</p>

<p>Enjoy! Nico</p>

<p>Just had a look: can't find any info on an ambient light sensor in the documentation or the system preferences panel (imac 27" purchased May 2010). <br /> By the way the screen calibrates well easily with an eye-one display2.</p>

<p>If it is there I haven't seen it's effect... hmm I'll check again, you scared me.<br /> No, can't find anything related to an ambient light sensor.</p>

<p>edit: re-read the OP question... perhaps you speak of an even newer 27". Sorry, I have no knowledge regarding future equipment.<br>

edit2: my comment concerns the current imac 27"</p>

<p>Just an idea: an 'end user conversion option' to facilitate eg. left hand use? Perhaps something like an easy to configure "set of controls"?</p>

<p>Focusing on the ergonomics is never a wrong idea.<br>

<br /> Regards, Nico</p>

<p>You said: <em>"</em> <em>While I was shooting, I was constantly checking how the pics were coming out through the LCD screen and they were looking great!</em> <em>"</em> <br /> Just curious: what lcd brightness setting do you use?</p>

<p>Nice photo, best wishes!</p>

<p>Last week I visited an Apple reseller and saw the 24" iMac next to a 24" Cinema LED screen .<br /> I have to be honest here: I can't tell the difference.<br /> The store employee spoke of rumors of soon to be introduced new iMac computers.<br /> Today this is old news as the new iMac's have officially been announced : 27" LED screen (!). I think it will be available somewhere next month.<br>

<br /> But having seen the elegant Cinema display with a lovely mini it does complicates things.<br /> Well at least they both have LED back lit screens. This must make the final buying decision easier (I hope).<br /> Comparing the various screens with your replies in mind solved my questions on matte vs. glossy: glossy will do fine.</p>

<p>Again, thanks for your help.<br /> (just in case anyone was wondering: I currently use an Eeepc with Picasa 2.7 and shoot RAW+jpeg anticipating an upgrade:-)</p>

<p>Thanks for your quick&helpful replies.</p>

<p>I think I am wrong stating Apple uses LED lighting in iMac's. Perhaps I misunderstood the Apple store employee (as I can't find any supporting evidence for this on the net). Here's something for me to clarify.</p>

<p>Now the task remains to check on lighting, compare versions and select a calibration tool.<br /> Thanks again, will post the result.</p>

<p>Your problem keeps getting my attention, apparently it puzzles me. After a good night sleep I'm not so sure that manually selecting an aperture will provide equal conditions for the AF system.<br>

Your lens will probably use the maximum aperture opening during the focus process, it will only close down to the needed or selected aperture during the actual exposure. This is why I think my suggestion to select the aperture manually won't help to determine the cause of your focus issue.</p>

<p>I think you can't select a single AF point and use the auto mode at the same time. But you can use the P (program) mode to do some tasks automatically and set some features manually.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>A new 24" iMac? There are lots of decent and probably cheaper and perhaps even better 24" display alternatives, but I've decided I want one...</p>

<p>Reading through various threads I've concluded that a 24" iMac display is considered a good photo editing tool.</p>

<p>What puzzles me is the fact that I've read about new shiny screens and display brightness, but also learned that the 24" display quality has been praised for years.</p>

<p>Perhaps you're able to help me: should I get one with the new LED lighting or try and find one with the previous lighting technique? Perhaps there is a difference when calibrating?<br>

Thanks !</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It is actually not that difficult to get a good functioning camera confused. I'm not entirely sure if this applies to your 20D though:</p>

<p>When I set my 10D to 'green square' it has to auto do everything: pop's the flash and starts to select AF points that I normally don't use.</p>

<p>When I select a low contrast subject eg. an even coloured carpet or a milky glass door it starts hunting for a good AF point. This is of course not directly comparable to your situation as this was done indoor wit a 50mm lens. But it does show that using the auto mode isn't always helpful. Sometimes subjects are easier captured using the central AF point.</p>

<p>Your lens probably uses a different aperture at the 'wide end' compared to full zoom. This difference affects the light available for obtaining AF.</p>

<p>May I suggest setting the 20D to M and the center/single AF point. Set the aperture to the largest value indicated on the lens barrel.<br>

Just use any shutter speed setting that gives a decent result (we're not in a contest).</p>

<p>Now I'm curious if you still encounter a difference in AF lock between zoom and wide angle.</p>

<p>Perhaps a dark environment and/or a low contrast subject... On the other hand you mention decent AF at wide angle.</p>

<p>Hmmm, does anything other than the focal length vary between these shots? <br /></p>

<p> </p>