patrick_umlauf2

<div></div>

I own the Digisix. But I don't like it. Battery drain really is a problem. My biggest concern is its digital design. ISO? Press one button long, then press another button several times short for increasing ISO. Pressed wrong button and it displays temperature? Grrr! For a new measurement press a button and it will answer with a digital EV number. Now turn the disc to the according number and read the aperture/shutter combinations. The L-208 should be far easier to handle. ISO? Short adjustment of a disc. Measurement? Press the button and adjust the match needle via disc. Purely intuitive. Get the Sekonic.

'First Light' (DSC00001.jpg) with my wifes digicam...<div></div>

Looking at prices of used digital cameras I found a half-life of 1.85 years by averaging on a dozen DSLRs and prosumer Sony cameras. That is to say the DSLR you buy <u>new</u> today will be worth about one half of its retail price in November 2007 in <u>used</u> condition .

This number helps me to resist buying a new D200. Given that I shoot one 'film' per week my costs for camera equipment resulted in $0.25 per image (no cards, no computer, no printer). In detail: $1699*50%/(1.85*52*36)</p>

The prices of new released DSLRs are pretty much constant in respect to their product segment. I expect the D300 to cost as much as the D200 and the D100.

Tulips

Thanks Dennis, another one?<div></div>

Even more striped shirts<div></div>

I've done a few tests with resolution targets and a P645 mounted on a tripod (the body, not the lens). I found singnificant loss in resolution with the 150 mm lens compared to flash shots. Mirror shake in the P645 is indeed well damped but with lenses from 150 mm up still an issue. The problem is solved by laying your hand or a beanbag as a dampener on the lens during exposure.

Rusla, screens from the SLX or 6000 series won't fit. The Rollei TLR compensates for parallax error and this requires a somewhat larger screen. Consider a Mamiya RB67 screen! It's very bright, with very good focussing snap. Take a look at http://www.panum.de/rolleiflex_screen.htm for instructions.

Sailing Education

Did you consider to replace your original screen with one from another camera model? This budget solution works very nice. Have a look at this<a href="http://www.panum.de/rolleiflex_screen.htm"> How To</a>.

Had the same problem with my F100. Your reflex mirror is misaligned. Look for the two tiny allen screws in the mirror box to adjust the mirror angle. Set the shutter on bulb and turn the screws about 10 degrees. Check focus, turn the screws, check focus etc. The correct alignment can best be checked with a tele lens at infinity. The moon is an ideal object. My F100 is dead on, AF and MF.

Patrick

I had the same problem with an F90X. The base flexed visibly and it got worse with an MB-10 attached. The vibration blurr in the slides was obvious. Now I have an F100 and the junction between camera base and quick release is rock solid. You might try two cheap and very effective solutions. For long lenses put a beanbag ON the lens which reduces the vibrations due to the initial tension. A second useful approach is to hang your photo bag over the top cover of your Nikon.

Dave, get the type 3 rangefinder 6 degree spot. It is the best 330f-screen for accurate focussing. See also the <A HREF="http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/m_faq.htm">Mamiya TLR System Summary</A> for a detailed description.

Stephen - All of the advices above are excellent. Read Danny Gonzalez' <A HREF="http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/gindex.html">MF Pages</A> for detailed desciptions. I began with a Yashica 124G (ok), then 2 Kievs 88 (a disaster), a Mamiya C330 (great, love it), a Rolleiflex 3,5F (photography at its best) and have now settled on a Rollei 6000 system (a dream). First decide if you want rectangular or square format. For squares I recommend to start with a Rollei SLX outfit (SLX body, Planar 2.8/80mm, MLU cable release). It is motorized, the Planar is a killer lens, all controls feel and they are very durable and sophisticated. And the whole set will cost you about $ 500 used. Patrick

John, surf to www.rflex.de and get the 6002-manual online. It operates like the SLX. Great cameras BTW.

Patrick

Greg, the 2,8GX Planar is a 5-element design (4 groups btw). The original Rollei data sheet is lying in front of me. I can send you a scan of the design picture if necessary. Take a look at http://foto.no/rolleiflex/Rollei-9.html for a historical overview. (Oops, Craig is right. The late 3,5/75mm-Planars are 6-element designs.)

The 2,8GX features a five-element Planar design by Carl Zeiss. The lens is manufactured under licence by Rollei. The coating process is the original Rollei HFT multicoating. The older 2,8F and 3,5F are Planars or Schneiders in different designs but all with five elements.

It's safe to say that the optical characteristics are different to the Rollei PQ Xenotars (6000 series, Schneider design) or Zeiss Planars (Hasselblad, Contax, etc) . Take a look at the MTF-charts of the Hasselblad CB (6-element Planar) and CF (7-element Planar) lenses (http://www.hasselblad.se)to get a first feel. Whether you prefer a five-element Planar over a seven-element design is a matter of taste. Either is near perfect. Perhaps someone can give a hint where we can find MTFs for the five-element design.

My beat up Rolleiflex' (bought on eBay, functions flawlessly after a

CLA) matte screen is almost blind due to cleaning scratches. Because

of the not favourable Euro/Dollar exchange rate and shipping costs

purchasing a new screen from Beattie or Maxwell is not economical.

What are your experiences with using screens from an RB67, SLX, 6000

series or other(and cutting them to the right size)?

Thanks, Patrick (Frankfurt, Germany)