matt_mitchell

<p>:)</p>

<p>anyway, looking at it again I think maybe f1.8 o f2 would be the best if just the trees were in the background and not the harsh fence</p>

<p>I was not asking what the photographers job was, in this case anyway the photographer was just testing the lens. The question was simple, what do you like, what has that go to do with what the art director has in mind..... sheeessh!</p>

<p>Matt humour us, what do <em>you</em> like or think works best in this photo, (you are not always gonna know what the photographer/director has in mind? "death of the author" and all that)</p>

<p>sorry link here<br>

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-85mm-f-1.2-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-85mm-f-1.2-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.as</p>

<p>halfway down you can roll the mouse over the aperture to see what the photo looks like. WHat do you think works best? To me around f4 or f2.8 perhaps.<br>

Also when do photographers prefer f1:1.2 ?</p>

<p>http://cache2.artprintimages.com/p/LRG/27/2781/T7OTD00Z/art-print/john-shearer-boxer-muhammad-ali-jumping-rope-while-watching-himself-in-mirror-during-training-for-his-fight.jpg<br>

http://www.blackarchives.org/files/imagecache/collectionitem_large/collection/00000495.jpg<br>

http://www.popartuk.com/g/l/lgpp31043+im-so-fast-muhammad-ali-in-training-poster.jpg<br>

http://www.muaythaidesign.com/_images/muay-thai-camp-thailand2.jpg</p>

<p>I don´t know why this has not been mentioned but why not take shots of him actually sparring, hitting and getting hit and working out in the gym as he naturally does instead of getting him to pose with fake sweat etc? I know thats what I would rather see and believe would have the most impact.</p>

<p>Thanks for the info, on ebay there is one the same advertised buy it now at $864.98<br>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160646464855?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649<br>

and a yashica yashinon version on auction at the moment it is at $415 with a few bids<br>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250886803631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649</p>

<p>This is the second time I have picked up something special cheap here in Quito, Ecuador. I bought a perfect condition 55mm 1:1.2 olympus zuiko for $30 at an old photography shop, the saleman wrote on the receipt "Olympus 55mm 1.2 normal lens $30" !<br>

This Chinon lens really is in excellent condition except for the small fingerprint mark you can see which I assure you wasn´t me.</p>

<p>Damn, it IS meant to be like that!<br>

not a bad score for the lens and camera for $20! anyone got an idea how much the lens is worth?</p>

<p>If you look at the photo of the back of the lens it is pretty clear near the aperture pin the glass is not rounded, it almost looks like it is meant to be like that,.... or thinking about it, is it actually meant to be like that?? I thought the glass should be a perfect circle?? If it was made like that then I am an idt, a very happy one tho lol!</p>

<p>view through back of camera, you can just see the angled parts of the lens defect at the bottom</p><div></div>

<p>front lens</p><div></div>

<p>Photos of lens</p><div></div>

<p>Hi,<br>

I found this Chinon CEII memotron for sale which I wanted to use with my Pentax 50mm 1.8 takuma. Couldn´t see what lens it had on it in the photo where it was posted for sale. Anyway it happened to come with an Auto Chinon 1:1.2 Tomioka lens. No scratches or problems internally with the glass but as seen in the photos part of the rear glass has broken off.<br>

One of the photos shows the lens fully open aperture through the back of the camera, where the fault can be seen at the bottom. (However, looking at the top you can see the top line of the camara body also cuts out the top edge part of the lens which is normal)<br>

My question is will this affect the photos at open or other aperture? I am going to try it of course but I was hoping someone with more experience could tell me. <br>

Also any other info about the lens?<br>

The camera and lens cost me $20 by the way.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Thanks stefan I know it can be tricky to focus but the E-410 doesn´t have Image Stabilisation so was wondering if the IS in cameras such as the E-510/20 and E-630 etc improves the image quality over the EOS aps-c</p>

<p>Has anyone used OM lenses on Canon EOS digital slr (consumer level slrs not full frame) AND on olympus/panasonic 4/3 bodies with IS? In your opinion do the om lenses work better on the Eos or 4/3 bodies given that EOS has a larger sensor but the 4/3s have in body image stabilization?<br>

I mainly want to use my OM 85mm 1.2 and 135mm 2.8. I have used them for a brief time on an Olympus E510 and these two lenses were by far the sharpest (at f8 and f11 especially) compared to the 50mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 50mm 1.2 . I have an OM adapter for eos and 4/3rds cameras. What can I expect with the EOS, for example EOS 400d or 450d, and experiences?<br>

thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies, I would still like to use the Sunpack though to see how it goes before buying a sb-28 , I guess I would need to set the shutter speed manually to 250 and the aperture to the one indicated on the flash unit for the given distance? or would the F100 recognise the flash and set the speed automatically, there is no flash sign in the display when it is mounted.</p>

 

<p>I have collected used kept and/or resold quite a number of old cameras Pentax, olympus, canon, Yashica and other but I finally picked up my first Nikon film camera, a F100 with 35-70mm 2.8d lens, fantastic condition for $150 and have a sunpack auto 422D flash (which is dedicated for my olympus OM2 and "all other hot shoe mount cameras") which shouldn´t cause any electrical damage from the research I have done. Anyway I do not know much about using a flash and am unsure what settings I need on the camera. If I select auto on the flash, the iso speed and the distance it gives me a f-stop to use. I can also select full 1/2 1/4 1/8 1/6. The camera fires the flash but what settings do I need to use on the camera when using the flash??? any info appreciated. I love the camera by the way and find it very user friendly after a bit of reading and experimenting with the settings.</p>

<p>Thanks for the answers. How would the high iso performance in the eos 300d compare to a more modern olympus four thirds such as e510 with 10mps then given the smaller sensor in the olympus?</p>

<p>thanks for the answers!</p>

<p>Not so good low light with higher iso? why is that or why are the newer models better in low light?</p>

<p>How capable is it in the hands of a competent photographer compared to newer amateur level SLRs?</p>

<p>Just got the first Yashicamat model and everything seems great except a heavily scratched focusing screen. It came without a carrying case and neck strap so I connected a spare strap from a SLR. But I dont know how high or low to have the camera for normal photography (not use the "sports" finder") - at waist level or chest level for example? Or is it better to use the magnified finder thingy. sorry for dumb question, I am new to medium format and TLRs</p>