andrew_mcdonald1

<p>Following this post, I've just picked up a genuine Black Rapid ConnectR-2 and fitted that to one of these Q-Straps - seems to work fine.<br>

Andy</p>

<p>Thanks for posting the picture. I have exactly the same strap (I feared that I might from your description). I've inspected my connector and I can't see any evidence of any fracture - though I'm not sure if I would.<br>

I was thinking of replacing the connector with a Black Rapid one at some point - I'm also interested in the new camera connector that they've announced that replaced the tripod screw on Manfrotto type QR plates.<br>

Andy</p>

<p>I used Ken's settings as a base point for my own settings, but I think this is a matter for personal choice.<br>

Also, I shoot RAW so I can always adjust any of the settings later.<br>

I think you should experiment to find what works for you and your style best.<br>

Andy</p>

<p>I'm in the process of creating a small program that solves this problem.<br>

I run it as the external editor in Lightroom and it takes the edit copy file name and works out the original NEF name then opens Capture NX with that NEF. I then process in NX and save the TIFF over the edit version that Lightroom created.<br>

The downsides of this are that the edited copy must reside in the same folder as the NEF and that I (currently) have to work out where to save the TIFF in Capture to get it over the top of the Lightroom file.<br>

The advantages are that I get to use Lightroom's cataloguing and stacking, Nikon's RAW conversion and then end up back in Lightroom to output the resultant TIFF.<br>

There are some other people who've developed similar things and I think that there is one Lightroom plug-in that also allows this.<br>

Andy</p>

<p>This is a conversion lens that attached to the front filter ring on your normal lens. It looks like the first unit has a filter thread of 67mm, so you would need an adaptor.<br>

I have no idea what the quality will be like using one of those - the optics are usually very poor (but you'd expect that given the low price) so the quality is usually pretty bad.<br>

I think that there are three cheap(ish) ways to get into macro:<br>

1. Close up lens - this is similar to what you've highlighted but looks like a filter. Canon and Nikon make fairly decent ones (I think that the Nikon is discontinued but Canon still make some). There are cheaper versions around but I think you need to consider quality vs price.<br>

2. extension tubes - these attach to the camera between the body and the lens and some will offer electronic contacts to pass camera functions through to the lens. So there is a difference in price between the cheap and the expensive ones.<br>

3. reversing ring - this allows you to mount your lens backwards on your camera. In your case you would need a 52mm version that converts to Nikon F. These can be quite cheap and can be effective. More details on this can be found on the web.<br>

Personally, I would be looking at options 1 or 3.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Andy</p>

I use the 18-135 on my D70s and apart from making sure that it is properly mounted (as mentioned earlier) I really like it.

If I could have afforded it, I would have got the 18-200.

My final choice was between the 18-70 and the 18-135 - in the end the extra reach made me go with the 18-135 - if build quality had been a bigger consideration I would have gone 18-70.

Andy

I've tried using the SB-26 with a D70s and I've found it a real struggle. I knew that it wouldn't work in auto mode but I

was surprised at how difficult it is (especially after having used it with an F80) and was even more surprised that the

AF illuminator on the flash doesn't even activate.

I've given up using it at the moment (gone to 50/1.4 instead) and will probably avoid flash until I can get a new unit.

I will probably hold on to the SB26 because I believe that it may be useful as a slave unit (probably for lighting

backgrounds etc. rather than directly onto a subject).

In terms of getting a new flash, I believe that any of the SB400, SB600, SB800 or SB900 would work much easier

(though you need to ensure that the flash you pick has all of the features that you need). I'm thinking that an SB600

would probably be the best choice for me (though if the SB800 comes down low enough in price I'd get one).

I've been considering the same question (I'll be moving up from a D70s, which is great but I'd like something more

robust, plus I'm interested in looking at getting some older lenses) - though I've been toying with a D90 as well.

Having read all of these positive things, I'm definitely going to go down the D200 plus lenses route rather than the

more expensive options.

I think that there is always a view among some quarters that as soon as a new camera comes out that the previous

models are automatically obsolete, which means that there are great bargains to be had by people who are happy to

be one or two steps behind the current models.

I just need to justify the spending now!

Have you checked the transfer mode setting? It is either USB (or mass storage) or PPTP, and it must be USB to

work with a computer (in my experience). The other setting is for connecting the camera directly to a pictbridge

printer (and possibly for remote control from a PC).

I have a D70s and I've never heard of this type of problem.

I don't believe Nikon build this type of obsolence into their products

Andy