davidfong

<p>Hi Ashley,<br>

I had a similar complaint just recently so I know what you are feeling. So this is how I handled it. As we all know as photographers, there will come a time where someone will complain about something. You did correctly by getting a hold of the Bride (or attempted to via phone) to try and offer a solution to the problem. Since they did not want to really bring up the problem till the New Year, if in fact that it was a really bad problem, then you should have not pursued it further. This being said, we have to learn that not all the photos will be loved or liked by the customer. We all seem to believe that we have to please everyone 100% and unless you had something in writing warranting that concept then you should not feel obligated to do anything. Being that sometimes we fall in love with our own work (and we are human), we do make mistakes from time to time. A bad position, angle or pose. During your culminating, if you found it to be a problem, I am sure you would have removed the photo or deleted it. However in this case some photos which you felt were good ended up in her collection. I did the same so when I was messaged about the problem I did what you did. Contacted the bride. The solution, apologize, offer a instant fix if warranted and then move on. If you can fix the photo you can offer as a solution to do so but if it can't be fixed, you can't go back. Don't try to do something that you cannot control. For now, if they have already given you the problem photos, be honest and apologize if you cannot fix them. You can offer a retake but at a cost that will not hinder your schedule or your income. If they say its ok, then at least you cared enough to put out the offer. The hardest part of this is the apology and the having to listen to the complaint without giving an excuse. After that, its all good. A hard lesson but with experience it gets better. I hope this message helps.</p>

<p>Nadine was a well respected person on this site. I enjoyed reading her comments and I learned much from her. Although I have not been on the site as much as I would like, she was the one person who shared a vast amount of knowledge. She never made anyone feel out of place and ecouraged anyone willing to learn become better. Thanks Nadine for your knowledge. Photonet will definately miss your input. May God watch over her and her family.<br>

David Fong</p>

<p>If you are using a Nikon Camera, depending on the model, you should be either in Manual, Shutter or Aperature Priority as Automatic will cause the popup flash to pop open. (This is true for the D7000). Check the owners manual for details on this.</p>

<p>Due to the floods in Thailand, Nikon says they should be back in full production by March 2012. As for price....??</p>

<p>Renee,<br>

The problem you will be facing is not enough power for flash. I know when shooting in Sun, harsh shadows is the tough shot. If you had an assistant you could get them to hold a reflector to help fill the shadow areas but if you don't you can always ask someone in the Bridal party to do that for you. Another thing you could do is use a shoot through umbrella to control some of the sunlight. Just hold it over the person to filter some of that harsh sunlight. I know the old rule "Sunny 16" applies here. Yes, set your camera to manual and shoot F16. This is not the best setting for awesome bokeh but it does control the amount of light going into the camera. Set your ISO to 100, Shutter speed will control the amount of ambient light, faster, less light, slower, more light. You could probably shoot 1/250th or higher if its really bright out. I can't tell you what to setup exactly as I am unfamiliar with what type of photos you are going to try and shoot. These settings should work fine for scenic/group shots. For the Individual shots, you can change the settings. You can always set your camera's ISO to auto and shoot Aperture priority, this will a least let the camera do all the shutter speed changes and ISO changes, while you control the depth of field. I would shoot in Raw and need be, fix your photos in Photoshop or Lightroom. Watch where the shadows fall and use the flash to fill. I hope this helps. Remember to check your photos with every location change, this way you won't be surprised with incorrect settings if you move indoors. Good Luck!</p>

<p>I have the 24-70 2.8 and this lens is probably the best lens and the only lens you will want to have. I have shot 3 weddings and I would say it stayed on my camera about 97% of the time. If there is a lens to get this is the one. After 1 or 2 weddings and then you will have saved enough for the 70-200mm with VRII.</p>

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<p>I agree with Dan South, give her all the pictures she wants but not the raw files or the unedited photos. Besides what is she going to do with the raw files anyways, very few people know how to process the file. As a friend she should be happy that the photos are free. You should be happy to have gotten experience doing the wedding. If your photos are processed well then she will be happy and you will get more referrals. Just take it in as a lesson learned. I never let my Bride and Groom see the photos until they are done and I never offer all the photos taken. When I am asked how many photos were taken, I say the number but a reminder that most shots are duplicates, triplicates, multiples. You only need 1 and that will be the best one. They are usually ok with that answer. I also work with a contract so that also helps. Anyway, just give her the photos......</p>

<p>Hi Sarah,<br>

Shooting in Raw has advantages and disadvantages as what Eric indicated. I shoot only in (Nikon NEF) which is Raw. The advantage is if I make a mistake in the lighting, I can use lightroom or photoshop to adjust the photo. There are hidden tweaks in the Raw format that are available but not in JPEG and the more you alter a JPEG the worse the photo gets. Lightroom is a great program which works very well with photoshop in that you can do changes to your photos without altering the actual photo. If you do work with large amounts of photos and need to get them processed quickly lightroom is the way to do it. Photoshop is a great tool to edit and bring out the artist in your photos.</p>

<p>My nephew played soccer and I used the 55-200mm with VR. The photos are great if you get to stand on the sidelines shooting end to end. I haven't tried the 70-300mm with VR but what I have heard that extra reach allows you to get closer if you happen to be sitting in the stands. These lenses on your camera will give you in reality 82.5-300mm and 105-450mm because of your sensor size. If you use them in lowlight however you will need to up the iso. I don't think you should have a problem with that as the D5000 is great lowlight camera.</p>

<p>If you are unsure about how to do this it is explained very well by Ken Rockwell. I have done it with my D200 and my D700 with the SB600.<br>

<a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/ittlslave.htm">http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/ittlslave.htm</a><br>

Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Hi Tobin,<br />There was an article that I just read in Popular Photography(January 2009: Page 136) that answers your question. As it reads:<br /><em>"The general rule: You need a model release only if you use the photos for commercial purposes, including advertising, endorsement, or trade. As long as you never sell your images for these purposes, anyone photographed in a public place (minors included) is fair game. You don't need a model release if you sell prints as art, or if they're used in an editorial context. To read up on the law as it applies to photographers, check out websites of attorneys Bert P. Krages (<a href="http://www.krages.com">www.krages.com</a>) and Carolyn E. Wright (<a href="http://www.photoattorney.com">www.photoattorney.com</a>) - they both specialize in photography law and have written books on the subject." - Tech Support - Popular Photography Article - January 2009.</em></p>

Hi Loretta,

 

My understanding is that you only need this number if your sales exceed over $30,000.00 a year. Then you will also need a vendors permit. Going to your local chamber of commerce should answer all your questions on small business.

 

David

Hi Sabrina,

 

I looked at your website. Love your pictures. You're doing great and yes there is always room to improve. Good job!

 

David

Hi Maikeul,

 

I have read these books which I think are great wedding books, lots of examples, very straight forward.

 

Wedding Photography Now! - Michelle Turner

 

Digital Wedding Photography - Glen Johnson

 

The Art Of Wedding Photography - Bambi Cantrell

 

I'm sure there are more but this is a good start.

Hi Andrew,

 

That depends on how well you know the customer and how long you have been doing weddings. If you are starting off, I would suggest to absorb the cost and write it off. This gives you more PR and a happy customer will put your name out there. I'm just starting out and trying to make a name for myself so the extra time over and above makes it worth it in the long run. If your agreement was clear in the contract and the Bride and Groom signed it, you shouldn't have had to ask to stay later. This should have been clear to them as the day started, that you had a timeline which you should be following. Anything over that time should be an automatic bill. The last thing at a wedding is to ask the Bride and Groom to pay more (I would hate doing it). If this this is the only time that it has happened, write it off as a lesson learned. Next wedding, make it clear and an automatic (non surprise issue) if you go over your time purchased. This saves the aggrevation of who is going to pay me. Remember, you still have the pictures and you don't have to release them until the finances are in final order. (It's just business not personal).

Hi Michael,

 

I currently use a D200 as well. I don't know what type of glass you are shooting with so I can't honestly answer to

the type of camera you should be using. In my opinion I think you should get better glass if you don't have any, and

learn the limitations of the camera. Its better to be able to work with what you have, then to spend money on what

you think you need. I agree with Eric, the D300 will be more to what you are accustomed to then the D90. Since you

are already using Nikon, you are more wise to stick with that brand unless 1/ You don't like Nikon anymore (for

some personal reason) , 2/ You are prepared to purchase a new set of lenses ($$$$). All the cameras are good, its

the photographer who makes it better. Hope that helps.

Hi George,

 

In my opinon, get the D300 and the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR lens. If you get the D700, you will be getting the better body but your glass you currently have will defeat the purpose of the sensor in the camera. (Full frame sensor (FX) with your current Dx lenses.) You will need full frame lenses to get the best use out of the camera. As far as low light is concerned, the D300 and the D700 both are designed from what I read to handle high iso so low light will not be a problem, even if you decide not to purchase the better glass. (But I like good glass as glass lasts for many years where the body will be outdated before). The 70-200mm f/2.8VR is pro glass. If you were buying this and the D700 you would have no problems, but the final decision will undoubtly be yours. The question you have to ask yourself is do I really need a full frame sensor for my camera? If you did a lot of scenery shots then the D700 is the better camera, but if you are doing the more portrait type, I would think the D700 is just a little too much. Hope this helps.

Photography to me is Art without a paintbrush. We all want to express ourselves somehow and some of us are

better at it then others. We all want to have something that we can keep as a memory of a instant in time. For those

of us that cannot express our art in a form of a drawing, photography is that medium to which we can show others,

what we have seen, or would like others to see. Thanks to the early inventors for coming up with that. Photography

is visual human history.

The best book I would recommend to every beginner is Scott Kelby's "The Digital Photography Book". I have learned a lot just reading this book. It's simple and straight forward. I have also read the 2nd Volume. This is a pretty goot start.

My answer to this question, get a 18-200mm lens. It's a good go everywhere lens. You will be taking it off the camera less and that means less chances of dirt on the sensor. If your budget cannot afford you this lens then a 28-135mm will do just as well. Hope this helps.

Is it possible to be a good photographer without grasping the technical concept of it all? Is it possible to be a successful photographer without a big fancy studio and nack for business owning?

 

Hi Mandie,

 

Yes it is possible to be a good photographer without grasping the technical concept of it all, but it helps more to know it. Yes you can be sucessful without a big fancy studio, the world is a beautiful studio, but, you should have a little bit of business knowledge. If this is all you are lacking, then I guess the best advice is to get someone, or get some education on business. I once read an article which gave sound advice to beginning photographers. If you know your craft/art, you really need to get some business sense if you want to achieve success. To me it takes more than luck sometimes to come up with the great photos, it also takes personal talent, something you have to have inside that inspires you. Of course those photography classes are going to tell you different, they are making the cookie cutter photographer whom has to follow all the rules. Art is non-subjective. Photography is Art. I know some great photographers out there that never even took a photography course. Don't be afraid to follow your dream of being a great photographer. Be inspired then go out and do it. Maybe the course you should have taken was business instead.

Hi Gus,

 

You have the all the right equipment to start off. With the 1.5X crop factor on the camera, your 85mm lens gives you

a 127.5mm. Unless you want to figure out all the math for positioning I suggest to just trust what you see in your

viewer. Start by photographing without your flash. If you try a few shots in Auto mode you will get different results.

Check the Exif of your best photos then move to Aperture Priority. Here you can control your F-stops. Depending on

the effects you want to achieve will be based on how wide your aperture is set at and what is in the background. If

shooting indoors, I like to open it all the way. This puts everything I photograph (except my subject whom I have

focused on) out of focus. Next to work with your flash I suggest bounce light if you are indoors. The SB800 is a great

flash as you can use it off your camera as a Master or a Slave Flash. Not sure how it works on the D300 but on the

D200, I found instructions at Ken Rockwell on how to do that. Make a bounce card to aid you on light reflection if

you can't afford a diffuser as flash lighting is very harsh. Another suggestion is to learn how light bounces. If you can

control the light, you will master your photos. Yes there are lots of little things but I hope this will get you

started.

I would use a fill flash. This will lighten your subjects but not over brighten the window light coming towards the lens. If your flash can be adjusted, bounce the light off a ceiling. If you want to get away from using the flash altogether, then you will need a reflector to help bounce the light back towards your subjects. Hope this answer helps.

If there is a purpose to the photo then that would give me a better idea as to how to crop it. The first picture places the subject in a position to lead the observer to conclude that the dog is going somewhere. The 1.5x2.0 crop leads the observer to conclude the dog has done something and is now moving away. The vertical crop is a look at me shot. This shot places the subject directly in the middle. Since the human perspective is to firstly glance at those objects that are of highest contrast, this photo makes the observer clearly focus on the dog and not the surroundings. So if you plan on using this shot to sell the dog then the last shot will do fine although I would crop it just a little more tighter to lessen the distractions in the photo. Its a great photo anyway you look at it. (Cute dog)