john_davis24

Sorry I wasn't more clear.  The second image is the one with the yellow-pink-orange cast I can't get rid of and the first image with the headphones on is the one that looks color balanced to me with greens and blues.  I'm hoping someone is able to bring out greens and blues in the second image (with no headphones) and give it a full color spectrum and balance.  

Thanks again!

Hi all!
I've been photographing a project that a lot of times is just lit with the ambient room light of two GE/Sylvania incandescent lights with no light shades or anything, just clear plastic or metal shades so there is no cast from a lamp shade.  Straight light from the bulbs.  I'm getting a strange color spectrum in the images taken in this light that I cannot fix in LR or photoshop.  It's got a kind of pink-orange-yellow to it that isn't really a cast because if I add blue, it just winds up with a blue cast as well as still having this pink-orange-yellow color balance.  It is almost like certain colors - blues and greens- are just missing from the images and so when I change the color balance, it doesn't bring out any green or blue in the image because it's not there to begin with, so it winds up just giving the images a blue cast on top of the pink-yellow-orange color spectrum that's in the images.  

I'm suspicious that these bulbs are putting out a weird or possibly minimal balance of colors, possibly all the bulbs made in the new overseas incandescent bulb factories do that were not made in the old USA factories that have sadly been closed down.  Because if I use an Aperture RGB LED light and set it to the temperature that incandescent light is supposed to be, if I even use the Sidus link app and "color match" the incandescent light in the room using a gray card, and then take an image using only the aperture light that has been set to "the same" color as these incandescent bulbs in the room, the images wind up looking natural with all colors present.  If I turn off the Aperture lights and use the incandescent bulbs, I get the weird cast that I can't fix.  

I've spent hours messing with every tool in LR and every tool I know of in photoshop trying to bring back a full color spectrum in these images and I can't do it.  The best I can do is desaturate orange which brings skin tones back to somewhat natural but they wind up just looking desaturated and still missing blues and greens.  

Here are two sample images of the same person in the same location, one taken with daylight coming in through a large sliding glass door window, which has a natural color balance, and the other is taken with the incandescent light only, which has the weird color cast I can't get rid of.  Or possibly is just lacking certain colors.  I also have both the jpeg exports and the original Sony RAW files in a Dropbox folder at the following link:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mmm8xd4910u2ltf/AADPADbvkYH0lTzMdTgLEc_8a?dl=0

I would love it if someone would take up the challenge to try to color correct this image and make it look natural like the sunlit image.  I've got a whole project full of images taken in this light and they all look like the only colors present in them are yellows oranges and magentas.  No greens or blues or very little.  Maybe there's a technique to bring them back into the images somehow?  I would love a way to make them look better.  I can provide more examples if anyone wants.  

Thank you!
 

 

"sensor cleaning is a pretty low-risk service. "

 

Really? Thats not my understanding. If I had my druthers Id never put liquid on sensor or lenses ever. But these spots

are from the previous owner.

I need to send my D3s in for sensor cleaning (I have an illness that prevents me from doing it myself). What are your thoughts on local store vs Nikon? I feel MUCH safer w Nikon but need the

camera because im in the middle of a project . keeble & shuchat is very close to me and turnaround time is 2-4 days.

 

This is what they said:

 

"Hi,

Do you clean D3s sensors? If so, do you do it in the same way Nikon does? How can I trust no harm will be done? Its my baby.

Thank you!"

 

" Good morning,

Over the years we have cleaned hundreds of D3/D3s camera's with no problems.

We use all of the current products for cleaning the ir filter, such as Eclipse and the

Arctic Butterfly sensor cleaning brush.

Nikon only tests up to aperture f16, we stop down to aperture f22.

We charge $60.00 for the body and we clean the exterior of the camera as well.

If you would like an exterior only cleaning of a lens, the 1st one is $5.00 and any

subsequent lenses would be $10.00 each. Our normal turnaround time is 2-4 days.

Thank you for your inquiry."

 

Advice?

Would that be stable for a D3? Im not sure....

I can't. 100% bedridden, really sick. Im looking for 3-Way - tilt, pan, & hopefully level.

 

For a D3

Im looking for a remote motorized tripod head with 3-Way - tilt, pan, & hopefully level

 

Cheaper version of this w an actual remote:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/765692-REG/Gitzo_GH5130RC_GH5130RC_Series_5_Athena.html

 

Anyone?

<p>I'm sure I formatted both cards. I've been doing this awhile, it's something I religiously do everytime, and I always shoot in backup mode. I use the "2 button" method rather than going into the menus, and I watch the card icon blink until it is done... i was also being extra careful now because of all the problems.<br>

However, I checked the cards again and noticed the images from the previous D3 shoot are still on the card, so clearly it just didn't get formatted. Within the root "DCIM" folder there are 2 folders, one D3 and one D3s. Who knows, I'm sure I formatted both cards but I don't know why this one wasn't formatted. I have never noticed old images still on my cards before. This whole problem is getting very strange I think I may be stuck in some sort of post apocalypse twilight zone. </p>

<p>Yes, but I had just formatted it in my D3s, taken 30 pictures, removed it and put it into the card reader. No D3 involved...</p>

<p>I had used it in my D3 previously for testing though, the previous card format was done in a D3 so maybe it didn't get properly formatted in the D3s. Could be a sign of a problem.</p>

<p>I'm trying to recreate the problem and the last 6 cards I've shot with my D3s (in backup mode 2cards x3 shoots) all mounted fine on my macpro (the one that's been giving me the most trouble) with both of my card readers (not using the bad USB one anymore)</p>

<p>But I noticed that one 64gb card mounted as "D3" instead of "D3s" on both card readers. The rest mounted as "D3s" like they should. Is this indicative of some kind of error in the way the cards are being written? Or meaningless?</p>

<p>This isn't a software issue because the computer isn't even mounting the card. Capture Pro has nothing to do with this...</p>

<p>I've tried 4 Macs with various versions of the latest OS. Nothing funky. My MacPro and macbook has 10.6.8, and the other 2 Macs have the most recent OS. </p>

<p>I just discovered that the secondary card reader I was using is not working. I tested my D3 with 6 cards, and my FW800 reader mounted all of them, my original USB reader mounted none of them, and a second USB reader I found here mounted all of them. <br>

<br />I need to do more testing, but it looks like I may have a second problem here (faulty USB reader) which is confusing the issue and lead me to think my FW800 reader was not the problem, leading me to think the D3s was the only common link. </p>

<p>I just ordered another reader and will do some more tests tomorrow. Maybe I have 2 bad readers here. That would be strange but a big relief. And I'm not sure why my FW800 reader would get funky all of a sudden like this. Maybe a mouse took a crap in it. </p>

<p>I appreciate the help, but I think you may have misread or skipped over most of my post. </p>

<p>No computer will even see half the cards I've shot in the last couple weeks at all. They do not show up in finder, nor does disk utility even see them. There was 1 card that showed up on my laptop but not on my macpro, or 2 other mac computers, but that is the exception, the rest were not seen by any of the 4 computers here. </p>

<p>And when I have had the issue with LR only seeing the jpeg thumbnails, it has not been a few images, it has been hundreds of images- usually half the CF card. When the jpeg thumbnails have been black it has also been nearly half the CF card. </p>

<p>Frank,<br /> I'm not sure about that because even when a card has been unreadable by one of my computers, when a different computer could read the card, all the images were fine. I haven't actually lost any images so far, but I think that's just great luck on my part. I think it's likely they would all look fine if shown on the screen from my camera. It is a good idea to try though. But if I shoot all my CF cards on my D3 and have no issues, and then do the same thing with my D3s and the same thing happens again with half the cards being unreadable, it's pretty clear it's the D3s.</p>

<p>Shun,<br /> I know LR uses the jpeg thumbnail for the preview, but when you double click on an image in the thumbnail grid in the import dialog, it shows you the image at 100%, which is not the jpeg anymore. What I have found on a couple CF cards is that with about half the images on the card, the jpeg thumbnails showed up, but LR could not generate the 100% preview when I double clicked on them. It was able to show me this 100% preview on other images on the card. And a couple times, many of the images have just been black even in the thumbnail grid. I've seen this on multiple computers. It suggests to me that for some reason, some of the NEF's were unreadable, and sometimes both the NEF and it's jpeg thumb were unreadable.</p>

<p>I also use only Sandisk Extreme cards, and I reformat both cards every single time I put them into the camera. I'm religious about it. </p>

<p>This isn't a card issue because it's happened all of a sudden across many different cards of different ages and capacities. A 64GB card and four 16GB cards. There's really no way all those cards just started going bad all of a sudden after years of working fine. I have never had a corrupt card in my life before a couple weeks ago when half my cards stopped being readable.</p>

<p>If you go with the D700, keep a spare charger in your bag! If it's really just a backup camera, chances are the batteries will be dead if you ever do need it. </p>

<p>I've had a very strange problem come up recently and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts. My D3s seems to be corrupting CF cards. I need to get my D3 back from a loan and do an experiment to further isolate the problem with the D3s, but so far it seems to be the only common link. </p>

<p>It began a week or two ago when I plugged a CF card into my MacPro to import the images into LR4. Some of them showed up completely black in the preview, and others that weren't black would not load a full size preview (from the card, pre-import), when I double clicked on the small thumbnail it just showed me a thumnbnail and would not zoom in to show the image large (usually you can see each image large in the import window, and toggle back and forth between the single image and the rows of thumbnails). It looked as if the NEF file was gone or unreadable and I was only able to see the jpeg thumbnail the camera records for the in camera preview. I of course freaked out a bit and safely ejected the CF card, plugged it into my macbook pro and they looked fine in LR4 on there. I just copied the images straight from the card onto the computer and made a manual backup (no LR involved). Then I moved them over to my MacPro and into LR, and the images seem to be fine. </p>

<p>But recently, about half the cards I shoot are unreadable by any computer (tried 4 computers with each card). Luckily, I shoot in backup mode with my D3s and I've been lucky enough that one card has been readable by at least 1 computer. But the rest don't show up in LR, finder, or even in disc utility. </p>

<p>To check for possible corruption via my card reader (a sandisk FW800 reader that's pretty old) I tried one backup card that had never been plugged into that sandisk reader, and used a different card reader, and it did not show up. So it's not the card reader. Seems like it must be the camera. </p>

<p>I want to make sure it's the D3s by seeing if I can replicate the problem with my D3, before I begin resetting the camera, but wanted to see if anyone has any ideas/thoughts. It's terrifying to think that the camera is doing this. </p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>So both 1 and 2 worked? I have now tried 3 different USB cables and they made no difference. That was the first thing I checked because the first cable I was using had an extension on it. But even a short belkin cable has the same issues. <br>

<br />I will be re-checking this to make sure it wasn't a fluke, but as soon as I removed both CF cards, all 3 cables worked better than they ever have, unplugging, replugging I regained connection within seconds every time. <br>

<br />Mike, the D3 and D3s are supposedly always in PSP mode, so there's nothing to set in the menu according to Nikon. I haven't seen anyone say that you need to remove CF cards for tethering and I don't see why you'd have to. Maybe I missed something in the manuals. <br>

I'll have to confirm with my D3 as well. </p>

<p>I think I may have figured it out. </p>

<p>I realized LR4 has tethering capability, so I tried it and ran into very similar problems. Which shocked me! I was playing around with it and noticed the green light on the back of the camera acting strange. I had noticed that before, but now that LR was exhibiting the same problem it seemed like it must be the camera, and it looked like the camera was confused or wasn't able to make the connection properly. I tried taking out the CF cards and it worked fine. <br>

<br />I guess you can't tether with CF cards installed? It seems the camera was confused as to which mode it was supposed to be in. I have never read that anywhere, but it seems to work fine now. We'll see if it continues to work. I'm amazed that none of these tethering apps tell you to remove CF cards for tethering. Or maybe I just missed it? I don't know why the camera can't figure it out, seems a bit silly. </p>

<p>I'm having a lot of trouble with this app, it's almost unusable from connectivity issues. It won't connect to my camera much of the time though it eventually does usually, it seems to take a random amount of time to connect, then when it does it disconnects shortly afterward. When I plug everything in it sits there with the "no camera connected" box, and sometimes it takes 5 minutes to figure it out and connect sometimes more. Every once in a while it happens immediately. Sometimes I give up on the app before it connects. Using interval timer shooting I get around 30 shots (at 1shot/10sec) before it disconnects while trying to download an image and I have to force everything to quit and start over, but then it won't connect again when I plug in and I have to sit there waiting for it. Quitting the app and restarting, turning the camera off, unplugging and replugging the USB cable don't seem to make any difference.</p>

<p>All computers are Macs running the latest 2 versions of OS (I've tried both in case it couldn't handle the most recent one)<br>

I'm using the latest versions of the CCP2 and ViewNX2, and running ViewNX2 so that the images show up there after each shot in interval timer mode. <br /> I've tried both a D3 and a D3s both with up to date firmware, and have the same issue with both<br /> I've tried numerous USB cables with no difference<br /> Multiple USB slots<br /> I've tried 3 different computers now, all new laptops with different OS versions, and no difference. The one I have now has solid state HD, 10.6.8, 2.66 Ghz, 8GB Ram. <br /> <br /> I've tried uninstalling all Nikon apps and reinstalling.</p>

<p>I think I have tried everything and isolated all other problems I can imagine other than user error and the app itself, but I can't imagine what I could be doing wrong.</p>

<p>It seems like some people have no problem with this application. Can anyone help? I've contacted Nikon and they are not helpful at all, they take weeks to respond and then all they have to offer is "try upgrading your firmware" (I have) or "try updating the application" (I have). And I have tried much more than that as can be seen above. <br /> <br />I'd really like to use this for a project so I can see images on the computer screen as they are taken in interval timer mode. But it's so frustrating when it's constantly disconnecting and I have to sit there waiting...</p>

<p>The images don't need to look exactly the same straight out of the camera, but I shoot fairly documentary in style and don't do drastic manipulating (like a lot of people these days with the extreme LR presets that create so much color cast that going from an S90 to D800 might not be noticeable) so other than a slight color shift I don't want them to look too different. </p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I need to send my D3 in for servicing and was going to buy a used D3 to hold me over while it's away. Thus came the possibility of getting a D3s instead and using it as an excuse to upgrade. However, I'm in the middle of a fairly important project and I don't want my later images to look different from the earlier images. I think it's important for this project's images to have a coherency throughout. Thus I wouldn't consider the D4 since it is higher resolution. I'm assuming that lower ISO images would look the same between D3 and D3s. I've seen some samples online. But I thought I'd see if anyone had any thoughts here as it's kind of a unique question. Being able to use higher ISO would be useful, assuming it would simply look like a D3 image taken at lower ISO. <br>

Thanks for any thoughts. Hopefully this isn't an annoying thread.</p>

 

<p>Doesn't anyone have any thoughts? I need to either ask for a refund, or exchange for a second time and hope the third one has no problems... I'm really questioning this company now.</p>

<p>I just received my second PA301w with QC problems. The first one had a line of magenta pixels and this one has what looks like a "light leak" on the top when the screen is black- it's a fade to lighter shade and the display screen is actually loose, which NEC says should not be the case. I would be surprised to get two problem monitors in a row buying an Apple display, but I'm especially surprised with a 2,500 dollar TOTL monitor like this.</p>

<p>Luckily their customer service is excellent, they send a brand new monitor via 2 day shipping and you have 21 days to return the old one. But before I have them send me a third monitor, I thought I would see if anyone has any thoughts on this model either QC, or the model in general in case maybe I should take this as a sign to go a different direction. The online reviews of the PA301w seem excellent, but they are not comparative reviews and it's hard to tell if they are just sponsored "raves" or honest evaluations.</p>

<p>Does anyone have a preference for another monitor? Some of the Eizo monitors look excellent. The cg275w looks fantastic but it is of course 1k more expensive and 3" smaller.</p>

<p>I'm using the monitor with a Mac Pro for photography work in Photoshop and Lightroom mainly for printing purposes to an Epson 3800. So I'm looking for color accuracy to print output.<br>

<br /><br /><br>

Thanks for any thoughts!</p>

<p>I meant screen saver, I never see my desktop. I'd like a screen saver that would come on when the computer is not in use and display images. The images themselves would be fine, I can easily setup a screen saver from images. But I don't know how to get big enough versions to fill the screen. </p>

<p>I would think that if they can get rights to images like this to make compilation books that sell for 30 dollars, they would also be able to get rights to make a compilation screen saver that would sell for 30-50 dollars or so. </p>

<p>Those are pretty cool. Too bad you don't have a combined group for OS like you do for iOS. Will they work as a screen saver and turn on automatically? </p>

<p>I should have mentioned that I use a Mac, recent, up to date, etc. </p>

<p>Thanks!</p>