geofox

<p>I am also interested in this stream as I'm planning to upgrade to the 7D from the 40D. The only word of advice I would give is to avoid the 28-135 at all costs. This lens is left over from film days and is not at all optimized for digital work. My camera store guru says that, in his opinion, Canon must have had thousands of these lenses left in the warehouse and is trying desperately to get rid of them. When I asked Canon to evaluate it, I was told that it is "within specification." Bull feathers!<br>

I put my 28-135 in the drawer and don't plan to take it out in the field again, ever. The focus is poor at best and completely undependable at worst. As a stop-gap I picked up a Sigma 17-70 hsm,os and love it. It has been tack sharp at all apetures, has a decent quality build, a good range of focal lengths and openings and I'm sticking with it whatever I pick up next.</p>

<p>I have a strange question: I purchased a G11 for my wife for Christmas. The camera is great and lives up to the best I've read. We are, however, having a strange problem. None of my computer card readers will read the SD card. All is well when we connect the camera directly to the computer but the card by itself doesn't show up on the directory when in the reader. Any suggestions?</p>

<p>I've had this lens for a couple of years, going from a 20D to a 40D and love it. Canon, and others, are clear about turning off the IS when using on a tripod. The IS uses visual clues and expects those clues to be moving. When they don't, the lens tries to compensate in several different ways. The Rocky Mountain School of Photography instructor in the class that I just took said the same. Image Stabilization is useful when the lens is going to be moving. It is not useful when the lens is stable.</p>

Thanks, Dave and Nathan. I found the site most helpful. I also appreciate Jeffrey's answer. You guys have been a big help.

I have seen engaging photographs that showed slight off-color work. When I inquired about the technique, I was told

it was digital "cross processing." I know about film cross processing - developing one type of film in other

chemicals - but I can't find out anything about duplicating that action in photoshop. Any suggestions? Is it a plug in

that I haven't found?

I had the same experience with my new 40d. It took me a day or two to realize that the Picture Styles offer a range of sharpness that can be adjusted. It did the trick. I upped the sharpness on the first user defined setting and go to that whenever I need a very sharp image. I certainly wouldn't use it for portraits as it would show every pore, especially with the very sharp 28-135 IS lens.