gen_b.

<p>Haven't been able to get a memory card reader yet, but need to load some photos....<br>

I've been using this camera with this computer and the very same set-up for awhile, but suddenly, it stopped working.<br>

<br />I hear Windows detect the camera, but the Windows Scanner/Fax/Load photos menu never comes up, and if I launch it on my own, it doesn't declare that it sees my camera.<br>

I see the drive listed in My Computer and can even see thumbnails of the photos, but can I simply drag and drop them elsewhere or will this lead to problems....?<br>

Help appreciated, as I really want to go shoot some photos tonight, and I need the space.</p>

<p>I'm looking for a new tripod/monopod/stability device for my Nikon D50. The longest lens I use on it is a 70-300mm zoom.<br>

Currently, I use a cheap <$40 tripod model that's stable, but very inconvenient for me. All the legs have about three rows of clips that are needed to adjust for height, and it takes way too long to achieve straightness, even with its bubble level. I miss countless shots while snapping, unsnapping, pulling, checking that it's level....you get the idea. This proves especially sad, when those great spontaneous shots arise, and my shutter speeds are just too low for handhold, and there's nothing around to rest the camera on, and there's no room or time to set up the tripod. I was thinking a monopod or gorillapod might be best for me, but they seem limiting.<br>

I need something very fast to operate/pleasant to use, and hopefully, very portable and light, as sometimes my camera accompanies me on hiking trips in the desert and in the city at night.</p>

<p>Hi folks,<br>

<br />I purchased a set of Duracell rechargeable batteries/charger about a year ago, and never opened them. They remained in a climate-controlled house tucked away, still in their package.<br>

I opened them the other day, and have since charged them for >24 hrs, and they just aren't "charging".<br>

Are they ruined? Can I get them replaced by the company?<br>

Advice appreciated-</p>

<p>My Canon SD1100 has a problem with taking timely photos both indoors and out, and even for posed photos. I'm not expecting the same shutter speed action as my Nikon D-SLR, but it's still slower than my old Olympus 3.2MP camera, and I miss a lot of photos. Turning off the LCD helps, but not by much....and it's annoying.<br>

Is this just a problem with this model, or in all pocket-sized cameras?<br>

Help appreciated.</p>

<p>I'm cognizant of that.<br>

I wrote my ad far differently than my personal post that I wrote above, obviously.</p>

<p>Hi folks,<br /> <br /> I was wondering if you all would offer some tips on how I might be able to find a photography internship or if at all possible, a paid assistant photographer gig. I really need to build up some professional experience, and my portfolio.<br /> <br /> I currently take photos for family, but would never, ever charge them, of course, and mainly like to give them my photos framed as gifts.<br /> <br /> I did some college photography work in the past, but the professors really didn't offer any real opportunities for the class, outside of assignments. I also did some of my own impromptu TFP shoots, but it never lead to any sort of long-term arrangement, and as much time as I invest, I really don't feel like I can learn as much on my own as I could in one day around a bunch of seasoned professionals.<br /> <br /> I even tried posting something on Craig's List, to offer my services as a photography assistant or second-shooter, but I have yet to hear back from anyone.<br /> <br /> I'm getting kind of discouraged.<br /> <br /> Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Thanks, very helpful.</p>

<p>Sorry if I wasn't being clear -- it does sync with the cord, but this is an off-camera set-up, and I'm wondering if I can bracket it ON-camera somehow. I don't always want to carry around a light-stand or find somewhere to put the strobe.</p>

<p>Hi folks,<br /> I own an SB24 and use it off-camera with a pc sync cord and the little Nikon hotshoe attachment.<br /> I was wondering if there are any brackets available so that I could mount the flash on my Nikon D50 camera? I remember when I purchased it that it will not be able to sync properly nor directly attach, but I'm wondering if there are any other options out there for me (besides purchasing an SB600 or 800).<br /> First world problem, yes, but it can be inconvenient to set it up off-camera at certain times, especially if I am only half-heartedly shooting that day.<br /> Any suggestions would be great, thanks-</p>

<p>I'm a CS3/4 user (getting LR2 next week), and I'm curious if there is some sort of plug-in or tiny executable to help me file-share through messenger and e-mail more easily. First World problem, I know -- but there has to be a more efficient way.<br /> <br /> It is tedious to tredge through a giant folder of 10,000+ thumbnails in the "Browse" menu, or to memorize specific file names, and then shift click whatever I want to send to family and friends.<br /> <br /> If I wanted to send entire groups, it would be easy to batch rename & send as a .zip or something, or just link someone to one of my photography pages, but when I want to locate a specific file or few files to send remotely, it's a real pain.<br /> <br /> Is drag&drop from LR possible? That would be somewhat better, because I could use the keyword system I'll be using anyhow...but there is a major downside: LR would have to be open.<br /> <br /> Is there some way to link the keywords from LR with a desktop search utility like Copernic?<br>

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks for all of your helpful responses.<br>

I'm going to give emulation, Bibble, and LZ a try and report back.</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> <br /> I'm curious whether any of you have had any success using Lightroom & CS3/4 under VMware in Linux.<br /> <br /> I've tried several alternatives (GIMP and a few others), but I just don't think the results are comparable. If emulation isn't an option, I might need to stick with Windows.<br>

Any input would be very helpful and appreciated;</p>

<p>How do you all manage photos you didn't take on your hard drive? i.e. Photos of loved ones that you haven't taken, inspirational photos, photos of nearby locations to shoot at, etc.<br /> <br /> My OCD is definitely showing here, but I find that I become irritated both:<br /> A. If the files are put in a separate folder than "Photos".<br /> B. But if they are placed in a sub-folder within "Photos", I become irritated when they appear in Lightroom, Adobe Bridge, etc., where I do not need them taking up any visual space.<br /> <br /> What does your folder hierarchy look like for these types of photos?</p>

<p>Thank you for all of the helpful responses so far. I appreciate it.<br /> <br /> I think the difference in my photos that I've noticed lately is just by applying the zone system, not necessarily ETTR.<br /> <br /> In the past, I only used Exp. Compensation in snow scenes, when photographing purely black/white subjects, or to create low/high-key settings, but have began using it every time I shoot. I crank it up for pale skin or pastel or neon colors (exc. red), and crank it down for darker colors, etc. As a result, my histograms have often moved to the right, so that probably is why I assumed it was the ETTR.</p>

<p>I posted a similar question on the portraits board, but didn't receive any response at all.<br /> <br /> I've been contracted to take a headshot for a family member who is applying for a job in Vegas as a cocktail waitress. The problem is, I'm not really sure what kind of a photo her prospective employers expect, and as one of my first photography jobs, I want to set a good precedent for myself. Of course, I also don't want to hurt the girl's chances at the job, either.<br /> <br /> I have all of these ideas (portrait in front of Vegas lights, or outdoors during the day, or a slow-sync nightclub style portrait), but wonder if a non-descript chair-and-wall portrait would be more appropriate?<br /> <br /> And is black/white better than color for this use?<br /> <br /> Opinions greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>One of my clients (family member) is applying for a job as a cocktail waitress at some of the major Vegas casinos, and needs to include a 'headshot'.<br /> <br /> The issue is that I'm not quite sure what style of a headshot would be appropriate. I try to abstain from traditional b/w chair-and-backdrop set-ups and prefer more creativity, but don't want to hurt her chances at getting the position or anything.<br /> <br /> Would a nightclub/slow synch style be appropriate? <br /> Or an outdoor portrait (maybe at night in front of Vegas lights, or during the day somewhere in the city)? <br /> Or would a non-descript headshot exude more professionalism?<br /> <br /> What do you all think? Opinions greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I've recently learned this adage and have practiced putting it to use -- this, plus reading over the zone system, has made such a tremendous difference in my photos already. However, I've come across a few areas where I need some insight, if you all don't mind.<br /> <br /> 1) When in a low-key setting, should I continue to expose to the right, and then adjust darkness and shadows in pp? Or is this an exemption?<br /> <br /> 2) What else besides light sources can be allowed to "blow out"?<br /> For example, in one of my experimental shots, there was a white mailing label on a magazine. Is this okay to allow this to blow out, since it is 'pure' white?<br /> In another situation, I was photographing a very pale-skinned subject in front of off-white furniture, and if I exposed properly for the skin (+2.0 EV), the highlights on the edges of the furniture blew out. Is this still acceptable?<br /> <br /> 3) I've heard that I should be careful with this exposure method if using a non-RGB histogram, which applies to my D50. Anything to look out for?</p>

<p>Nine thumbnails. The menu will not change back to four, as I used to be able to.<br>

It will display one when I select one and "zoom-in", of course.</p>

<p>How many of you hire an assistant to perform your post-processing? Is this common? <br /> <br /> And do you find that you have trustworthy results this way? Have you had to go through many assistants to find the right match?<br /> <br /> Do you pay them by the hour or the image?<br /> <br /> Any information would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I have it set to "detailed".</p>

<p>I used to be able to access the histogram on my D50, but it no longer works. I've done a manual reset to no avail.<br>

I understand that the buttons perform different actions when the camera is in different "modes" (shooting vs. review vs. preview), but even after following the manual's instructions, I still can't get a histogram to show.<br>

I am not zooming in on the image in preview mode, but have tried highlighting the particular image with the right/left arrows, and then using the shutter-speed wheel or the up/down arrows to no avail. They just sort through all of my taken images. It does the same thing in review mode.<br>

I can also no longer access the menu to change the size of the mini-images on the preview screen, either.<br>

Any ideas?</p>

<p>I've found that whenever I photograph an extremely brightly-colored subject (neon red/orange/magenta/periwinkle/etc.) that it never comes out as vividly as my eyes can see. Upon zooming in on the photos, either on the LCD or on the computer, I realize that the subject never retains its detail. It's almost like the color is blown-out, much as a white highlight would be.<br /> <br /> I've tried photographing the same plant with every white balance option available, at different times of the day, using different metering options, and shooting at different distances, etc., but the same thing continues to happen.<br /> <br /> What could be the issue, and how can I remedy this? If it helps, I shoot with a Nikon D50 and Nikkor 50mm/f1.8 lens.</p>

<p>How can I achieve the high-contrast (?), highly-textured skin look of this photo? I have a D50 and 50mm/f1.8.<br>

<br />

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2001/2165381485_a1e6cdbee6_o.jpg</p>

 

<b>[Moderator's note:</b> Please do not reproduce here on photo.net any photos that are not your own. You may provide a link to where the photos may be seen.]<br>

Please read the following for tips to appropriate participation on photo.net:<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="../info/guidelines">Community Guidelines</a><br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://advertise.photo.net/">Advertising</a> <br /> <a rel="nofollow" href="../info/contact-us">Contact Photo.net</a> <br /> <a rel="nofollow" href="../info/terms-of-use">Terms of Use</a> <br /> <a rel="nofollow" href="../info/frequent-questions">FAQ</a> <br />

<p>Late at responding, I know, but thanks for all of the suggestions.</p>

<p>Since I asked this question, I've read through the Strobist "lectures", and am waiting to find an SB-24 at a good price. I'm very excited at the prospect of having more control over my indoor lighting, instead of being a slave to the lamp and the window.</p>

<p>I bought a CFL, to test out, but I discovered that they do not work on lights that have dimmers, which my entire house pretty much has. I've heard there are certain models that will work (a specific GE model, in particular), but I've yet to go and pick some out.</p>

<p>Thanks; I appreciate it.</p>

<p>As soon as I heard the crank is dependent upon the lock on the neck, I figured it right out. Ever-complicating simple situations, I assumed they served independent functions.</p>

<p>I can definitely see why I won't be using that columnal extension too often. It's a real shame that it's so much quicker to use than adjusting the legs.</p>

<p> </p>