ginger_b2

I've had horrible focusing issues with my Tamron 17-50 2.8 on my D300, but never had the camera not recognize the lense. Now I refuse to use this lense on this camera. Good luck! I'd be interested to know if you find a fix.

Thank you all so much for youn responses!

Ginger

Hello!

I've been reading through a few past posts, but forgive me if this question is redundant. This is my first Nikon

DSLR...I own two other Fuji DSLRs.

 

Which picture control have you all found to be best? Standard or Neutral and are you adding sharpening or anything

else?

 

Also, are you turning Active D Lighting on only in certain situations (contrasts or lots of whites/darks) or are you

leaving it on all the time?

 

Fuji's S3 has a film simulation mode which is very nice on highlights and shadows. It's been tough adjusting to the

D300.

 

I'm photographing portraits (mostly on location but some studio) and weddings.

 

Thanks :)

Thanks for your posts. I don't think my question is wedding specific, but thanks.

Thanks for your responses.

Thanks for your responses. So, when processing wedding images, what ppi do you use when cropping?

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

Thanks you guys.

Nadine, that's what I was thinking...subject motion, thanks. Now, subject motion should be frozen by 125th of a second unless using a zoom lense above 125mm. I saw another post about hand holding a 50mm at 1/50th - following the rule of shutter speed to lense length, but I find that I still get blur.

Thanks for your posts :)

Just wanted to say thank you for responding. I actually bought visual watermark and it was perfect. :)

Questions:

1. How much does the DOF change (f stop staying the same) between 17mm and 50mm

 

2. At what point does flash not freeze shake or motion? Nadine posted that -1 exposure below ambient is not

enough to freeze shake with flash.

 

3. Follow Up to 2: If using TTL BL (fill flash) outdoors on a tripod I try to not go below 100 or 125, but it seems many

people shoot at 1/30th or 1/60th. I'm terrified of getting home and not having sharp images. What's the best?

 

Thanks!

If I crop an image, lets just say to a 4x6 300 pixels per inch and the file size goes from a 5500 to a 1400kb jpg file is

the quality going to be bad? I've tried reading on this topic and am sure it has been discussed, so sorry if it is a

repeat.

Thanks in advance.

I need a very simple plug and play method to do a batch insert of a "proof" mark or "copyright" mark. Anyone have

advice?

Thanks

Hi,

So, i just read in my D300 manual that off camera flash w/ a sync cord may not produce correct exposure if wanting i-

TTL (which I assume includes TTL and TTL-BL). Then it says to select spot metering. Pg362 of user guide.

 

When reading my manual for the SB 800 it says to use matrix metering 1st and/or center weighted metering as a

2nd choice.

 

Which manual is correct since they are conflicting?

 

Thanks!

Thanks Nadine,

When you photograph group photographs in the shade at and event, what is your process? Is using flash as a fill the best way to go?

Hi guys,

I just read the posts you sent me links for. I think my brain is literally rattling in my head now. Yikes.

 

Nadine, I was referring to having the flash on manual and using a meter which reads both flash and ambient light

together. So, I get what you are saying about not being able to read just one flash's power. I was thinking I would

meter like I do in the studio - additive. So, I would measure the fill (ambient), then set my flash and meter both the

flash and ambient in one reading to get the exposure I would set my camera to. The difference between the two

would determine the lighting ratio. Right? I think this connects with what Nathan was saying "How to use the meter

(one way, and a traditional way). Use the meter to get a reading of your subject in the ambient light. That determines

your shutter speed. Next (in manual mode) set the aperture for that of your flash-- obviously if the ambient reading is

200/f8, then you have to be tighter than f8 when you use the flash. " Although Nathan what are you meaning by

tighter than f8?

 

So, Nadine, a little more on TTL....isn't TTL automatic fill light? It is tough to adjust and get used too and I wonder if

often times it's not enough flash. Thoughts?

 

Ok, so someone said this in one of those previous posts

"Any time you want to balance flash with ambient light its very simple. Let you flash determine the f-stop. let the

ambient light determine the shutter speed. You can vary these formula for different looks, by just raising or lowering

shutterspeeds. Of course you need a camera that will allow flash sync. at any shutter speed. Other wise you will be

fighting your equipment....Hasselblads are perfect for this, without ttl. Every thing on manual. You just need an

ambient/flash meter." This goes back to what Nathan was saying with the ambient f stop. i assume if you just want

fill, then your flash would be exposed above (or not as bright) as the ambient reading.

I couldn't have written a more jumbled response...sorry!!!

Thanks for the tips :)

Hi guys,

I just read the posts you sent me links for. I think my brain is literally rattling in my head now. Yikes.

 

Nadine, I was referring to having the flash on manual and using a meter which reads both flash and ambient light together. So, I get what you are saying about not being able to read just one flash's power. I was thinking I would meter like I do in the studio - additive. So, I would measure the fill (ambient), then set my flash and meter both the flash and ambient in one reading to get the exposure I would set my camera to. The difference between the two would determine the lighting ratio. Right? I think this connects with what Nathan was saying "How to use the meter (one way, and a traditional way). Use the meter to get a reading of your subject in the ambient light. That determines your shutter speed. Next (in manual mode) set the aperture for that of your flash-- obviously if the ambient reading is 200/f8, then you have to be tighter than f8 when you use the flash. " Although Nathan what are you meaning by tighter than f8?

 

So, Nadine, a little more on TTL....isn't TTL automatic fill light? It is tough to adjust and get used too and I wonder if often times it's not enough flash. Thoughts?

 

Ok, so someone said this in one of those previous posts

"Any time you want to balance flash with ambient light its very simple. Let you flash determine the f-stop. let the ambient light determine the shutter speed. You can vary these formula for different looks, by just raising or lowering shutterspeeds. Of course you need a camera that will allow flash sync. at any shutter speed. Other wise you will be fighting your equipment....Hasselblads are perfect for this, without ttl. Every thing on manual. You just need an ambient/flash meter." This goes back to what Nathan was saying with the ambient f stop. i assume if you just want fill, then your flash would be exposed above (or not as bright) as the ambient reading.

I couldn't have written a more jumbled response...sorry!!!

Thanks for the tips :)

I have a questions regarding outdoor group photographs. In the past I've always exposed for the subject's face and

used TTL on my camera. Yippee. I really want to create a dynamic image where the landscape background is not

underexposed and any bright sun in the background is not overexposed. So, it seems that there are a few schools

of thought...1 being to use the ambient light (falling on the subject) as my fill and to use an off camera light or flash

as my main. I think it's important to use my light meter, but here is where I get a little confused. Do I take an

ambient meter reading of the subject (fill light)...lets say 125th, ISO 200, F5.6, then if I use a 1:3 ratio (1 1/2 stops

difference) adjust adjust my camera setting to 250th, f5.6 1/2 (or f6.3) and meter my flash until it reads 250th at

f6.3? And second Q would be...how dark is my background now going to be if I up my shutter speed.

 

Now another school of thought seems to expose for the bright sky and then use flash on your subject. How the heck

am I incorporating my meter if I'm exposing for the sky in my camera?

 

An what about the Seconic meter that breaks out the flash and amient %s. If my meter ready 70% technically the

ambient light is 30% and the flash is 70%... When I seem to test this it works for bright background, but stinks for a

shaded background.

 

Thanks in advance.