bagley_crowder2

<p>Folks,<br>

I want to take a picture of a model in a tunnel at night with light trails from motorcycles whizzing by her. I want her to be in focus along with the environment, with only the light trails blurring. I would like to light her using moody "loop lighting" with off camera alien bee positioned on the right, and strobe positioned behind her to create a rim light (so I think this rules out rear curtain sync). <br>

What is the best method to accomplish this? I'm thinking composite with two images- take one of her with the lighting I want, and then photograph the motorcycles coming through the cave from the same point and combine? THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!</p>

<p>Bagley</p>

<p>Thanks William! That's very helpful. Now I'm going to run away from the manual/autofocus wars LOL.</p>

<p>Could someone please critique this? I'm having issues with focusing. The data is F3.2; 1/200; 3200 ISO. I was using continuous focus, and I don't think it's a sharp as it should be. Is it sharp considering the low light environment/movement? I have some specific questions:<br /><br />1) When using continuous auto focus and choosing your points manually, what do you do if you need to recompose the shot, and it falls "outside" of the autofocus points or in between them?<br />2) I was trying to focus on the eyes. Is it okay to just set the continuous autofocus on the chest since they would be on roughly the same plane? How about choosing the center of the face?<br />3) Sometimes it's hard to tell if a shot is in focus for me with high iso. Is it grain or focus?<br />4) For best focus technique, should you just choose the autofocus point manually and then "stick" with it with recomposing? Would it be best to just plop the ol' focus point on the eyes and then readjust zoom or move around? That seems difficult in these situations.<br /><br />THANKS FOR YOUR HELP! I'm such a frustrated noob. Here is the link:<br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/14855047@N00/14387869073/lightbox/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/14855047@ ... /lightbox/</a></p>

<p>Hey gang! I've started shooting shows, and I have begun mentoring under an established photographer. I noticed that he shoots a lot of shots wide open- 1.8 and 2.0. I have problems getting my images sharp at those apertures (being such a shallow depth of field). <br>

My question is this- what aperture do most pros seem to like as a sweet spot? I notice Jared will bump his to 3.2 a lot to give him wiggle room. Do you guys shoot wide open a lot with concerts? It's really frustrating and difficult. Thanks in advance! Bagley</p>

<p>So many thanks to all that help us beginners in here- it's been amazing! I am going to do an upcoming shoot for a band with two women. The band is called "Iron Plaid" so I thought I would photograph the women in plaid underwear with holding a blow torch between them. I'd like to do a strobe setup that makes some interesting lighting- I'd like it to be very contrasty- Any ideas? Soft lighting is not what I'm after, nor is blow outs with hot spots. I have a three light setup with Alien Bees. </p>

<p>Hi- anyone have tips for photographing nudes of thin women? THANKS IN ADVANCE! </p>

<p>Thanks in advance for your help! I have a photo shoot with a horse/human (portrait) tomorrow, and I was wondering what the best focus setting for this would be. Any suggestions? How about the *lock on feature? Camera is a Canon 40d.</p>

<p>Mucho Thanks!<br>

Bagley</p>

<p>I was going to use the logo on a website, and then blow it up for T-shirts and coffee mugs. Thanks for your help, Rich.</p>

<p>CHAS-- THANKS! I will research this some more. You have pointed me in the right direction.</p>

 

<p>I just checked out the site, and I bookmarked it! I enjoyed your photography as both a diver and photographer. I found it easy to navigate and it loaded quickly for me. My one suggestion is to redo your logo so that it is cleaner-- your logo is to "jagged." The appearance of your front page is very important to keep viewers. </p>

<p>Nice work!</p>

<p>Thanks in advance! My frustrating dilemma is this:<br>

I have created a logo in both microsoft expression web and illustrator. The logo looks perfectly smooth in both programs, even zoomed all the way in (which is the point of vector, right?). However, when I try to save the image in png form or jpeg, it looks pixelated again-- even when exporting from expression web to another vector program such as illustrator. In other words, I zoom in and get jaggies, even though the original image in the program is flawless.</p>

<p>I did do autotrace on the image in illustrator. Not sure if that's related. The image looks fine until I save it and look at it. Any ideas? </p>

<p>Bagley</p>

<p>Thanks to all for responses! I just posted this as a general warning. Keep in mind just because it hasn't happened to YOU is a fallacy of logic called overgeneralization, ie. "...it hasn't happened in this circumstance, therefore it must not be true..." I think the Cannon rep knows what he is talking about. <br>

Keep in mind just because you successfully beer bong Cheerios with a gallon of milk in the morning without choking doesn't mean that *everyone* is going to be okay in every circumstance. You might be fine beer bonging Cheeries 100 times, but the 101 instance might cause you to choke. Course, under the same logic the arcing might not ever happen under "normal" circumstances (whatever that may be). It's your own decision whether you want to remove the lens without cutting the camera off. I just recommend you not do it with the Cheerios and gallon of milk...</p>

<p>Oops-- it is arcing not "arching" LOL. And yes-- I spoke with Cannon and the photography rental place warned me about the issue because they have replaced 4 lenses because of it. It is NOT covered under warranty, and I was told they have to pay for it. <br>

I'm certain they are not lying about it (the photo rental place and Cannon). It might be because of certain cameras? Just warning everyone-- if you don't have it happen to you, then kudos. However, it is somewhat interesting that the rental place has this issue, being that they rent lenses every day all day-- it's a good testing environment.</p>

<p>NOTE TO ALL USERS OF THE CANNON 70-200 IS 2.8L LENS. This lens is capable of "arching" an electric surge from the camera to the lens if the image stabilization is in the "on" position during changing of the lens. If this happens, you have to replace the motor in the lens, and it's a $300 repair. This risk is not outlined in the manual, so be sure either the camera is off or the lens IS is off before changing it. This issue was verified by a Cannon rep and a local rental store that has had to repair numerous 70-200 rentals for this issue. Just FYI to everyone! </p>

<p>I have noticed that after I adjust pictures for display on the internet perfectly for my monitor settings, they may look a tad bit dark on other people's monitors. Should I just crank up the exposure just a bit to compensate for this? Any general suggestions? Thanks in advance!<br>

Bagley</p>

<p>Thanks in advance to everyone here devoting time to help noobs enjoy and increase their photographic abilities! I am wanting to do some horse portraits with owners, but I find more often than not the backgrounds are horrible-- ugly barns and fences, nasty prarie, etc. What to do? I don't want to simply use a large aperature to blur the background-- most of them are so ugly it won't matter.<br>

Any suggestions? Anyone here done horse photos and portraits? I'm dying for some insight. THANKS!!</p>

<p>Bagley</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for comments/suggestons!!</p>

<p>My thought on my lens is this (please critique or comment)-- I have a cannon 40d and purchased a 50 1.8 to really learn how to shoot without a zoom. I am now thinking about portraits (and considering another lens) BUT...my thought is to continue using the 50 1.8 and milk everything I can out of it-- technique wise. Thoughts?</p>

<p>THANKS SO MUCH!</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for any help! I have a histogram understanding issue. Here is my histogram from a black and white photo (converted from color). Why all the peaks? Is this proper exposure? Any tips/hints/ideas would be helpful!</p>

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