william__bill__crabill
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Posts posted by william__bill__crabill
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<p>I guess I'm outvoted then :(, blame it on old age! I will repeat though, the originator is incorrect about the SB 400 not having bounce capibility. I use one frequently with the tube oriented straight up & with a Demb reflector to provide fill. It does well in tight quarters, it's limitations being it's limited range, & it is certainly iTTL capible. If it's power is acceptable, it is one of your low cost options, but I'd also check the used market, I picked up a clean, used SB 600 at B&H for less than the cost of a new SB 400.</p>
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<p>I spent yesterday stauking whitetailed deer in Shenandoah Nat'l Park with an F3hp & FE2/MD12 combo. While I shoot with a D80 most days now, & own F80 & N90s 35mm AF bodies, nothing gives me the feelings of creatvity & self satisfaction that matches using a quality film body. My rolls of film are in for development as I type & will be put on a photo CD with no prints so I can download to my computer, play, tweek & print as I see fit. Best of both worlds!</p>
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<p>Possibly I misinterperted his last sentence, doesn't it ask about about both TTL & Auto Exposure Flashes??</p>
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<p>Possibly I misinterperted his last sentence, doesn't it ask about about both TTL & Auto Exposure Flashes??</p>
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<p>Pete<br>
No, you only need an iTTL compatible flash unit to use iTTL on a digital or Film (F6) bodies with iTTl compatibility. I didn't mean to infer that older flashes were usable in iTTL or TTL modes, that's why I provided the reference to the Nikon Compatibility chart! But I use an SB400 in iTTl , SB 600 in iTTL & SB24 in Auto on my D80 & , with the exception of the limited range of the low-powered SB 400, I defy you to see any difference between the results produced by iTTL & Auto modes. Again, see the Nikon compatibility chart. The originator was looking for a low-cost option & using an older flash unit in Auto provides that option very well.</p>
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<p>PS: Many of the Pre-DSLR flashes work just fine on digital bodies, just not in iTTL mode, but are very usable in TTL, auto, manual etc, modes. These units are readily available in good condition on the used market, I'd suggest an SB-24. See the Nikon flash/camera/mode compatibility chart on nikon USA<br>
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<p>Where did you get the idea that the SB400 will not do bounch flash, it certainly will, the flash tube rotates 90 degrees in clicks from straight forward to straight up at the ceiling. It does not rotate from side to side. You can also add a little Demb reflecter which works quite effectively with the little SB400. The 400's main problem is it's low power output which may require the user to push the ISO settings on the camera body to compensate.</p>
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<p>Yes, your 'White Button" model is a Nikkor F Photomic TN, This version can be recognized by the battery test button and a white engraved letter N on the top of the unit.<br>
See 'The Complete Nikon System' by Peter Braczko, pg 56.</p>
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<p>I'm getting in here late & admit that I haven't read all the responses.....I own & shoot with both the F3hp & FM2n plus the FE2. Matter of fact, I spent several hours out in the woods today stauking white tailed deer with both my F3 & FE2, different film types in each. The F3hp is a quality gem, all the bells & whisles, but ask yourself if will need them! I generally use a motor drive & there-in lies a major reason for my preference amoung the three [FE2], the F3 with it's MD4 motor drive turns into a monster in size & weight, though it will balance large lenses well. The FE2 with it's MD-12 motor drive is much easier to handle, nice & compact. Relative to viewfinder brightness, I have replaced the original focusing screens in both my FE2's with FM3a screens which results in a nice bright viewfinder image. I have both the F3 & HP viewfinders & must admit that I have absolutely no difficulty with the original F3 viewfinder/prism while wearing glasses. I much prefer the needle metering of the FE2 in leiu of the diodes of the FM, although I think I'm in a minority there. All three bodies will handle AI & AIs lenses which are readily available today a reasonable prices in clean used condition.</p>
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<p>Chris is absolutely correct, I own two F80 bodies & checked both & custom setting #9 will totally disable the multiselector.</p>
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<p>Hal,<br>
While I doubt this is your problem, check Custom Function #6. It allows varionation of the focus area selection option .</p>
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<p>A steady hold is important and is a learned skill. I started my SLR photography in the 1950's with slide flim & the standard ISO (ASA then!) speeds were 25 & 32. ISO 50 & later on ISO 100, were considered high speed films so learning how to hold a camera solidly & steady was (is) mandatory for sharp images.<br>
The Tokina Lens has obviously been around for a while, so be sure to check it carefully for any interior conditions that could contribute to a less than sharp image, I'm thinking of possible fungus or oil film if was ever improperly lubed. If clean, it should be a fine performer, by the way, just an afterthought, but the heavier weight of the lens should help you hold steady, not the other way around :).<br>
Bill</p>
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<p>I don't recall the specific exposures but I used Kodak Professional BN400CN film (ISO 400) and the day was very cloudy & dull, so I'm certain that the exposures were in the range of 1/60-1/125 @ f/2.8 - f/5.6. All were hand held.<br>
Bill</p>
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<p>Benhai,<br>
Look here, B&W photo's on the first page are taken with my Tokina AT-X 24-40 f/2.8 mounted on a Nikon FE2<br>
Bill<br>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photo_opus/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/photo_opus/</a></p>
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<p>Benhai,<br>
Look here, B&W photo's on the first page are taken with my Tokina AT-X 24-40 f/2.8 mounted on a Nikon FE2<br>
Bill<br>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/photo_opus/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/photo_opus/</a></p>
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<p>Benhai,<br>
Image was too large, I've had to reduce it & will try again,<br>
Bill</p><div>
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<p>Benhai,<br>
I don't know why you post a message to "Try to post a picture", but heres one taken at Gettysburg National Monument (USA) with the Tokina 24-40 AT-X on an FE2 body.<br>
Bill</p>
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<p>Benhai,<br>
The Tokina is, indeed, heavy, but this is due to it's solid construction! It is sharp but I don't find it's minor color shift objectionable although that is a common problem with after-market, (third party) lenses. I think that is caused by differing optical glass formulations. I've found that the older Vivitar Series I very close to Nikon , followed by Tokina AT-X's, Tamron & Sigma. Sigma is by far the worst, it's color rendition being very different than Nikkor's & is especially noticable on film if you expose part of a roll with a Nikkor lens & part of the same roll with a Sigma. Particularly bad if you are photographing a wedding or other social function & try to assemble an album that results in a Nikon print right next to a Sigma print!<br>
Bill</p>
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<p>Just in case you missed <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=79334">Bjorn Rorslett</a>'s comment, it's worth repeating, "A CPU is easily added to the 75-150", you just need to find one that doesn't "Auto-Zoom" when tilted down, or repair the zoom friction with black electrical tape when you have the CPU installed. It's a super little zoom! And, yep, for some of us that use polorizers & split neutral density filters with regularity, the rotating front element can be a real annoyance.</p>
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<p>Everything has it's time & place. There is a time when Auto-Everything will produce an excellent photographic result. But given the correct circumstances it rarely produces the sense of satisfaction and self fullfillment that I get with a properly focused & exposed photograph that I have made with MF equipment. I shoot digital/AF 90% of the time and I've never felt the sense of joy that I get using my older MF gear.........just a personal matter, but that doesn't take away from your initial question, the Tokina AT-X 24-40 f/2.8 is an excellent performer & your camera body, unlike most Nikon digitals will meter with it, I have to use an external, hand held meter when I use mine on my D80 :(.</p>
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<p>Glad to see another 24-40 AT-X owner !, There aren't many out there. I'm a prime lens guy, I find zooms with optical characteristics equal to primes to be just too darn big & heavy, BUT, I've owned & shot with many zooms over the years in reaching that conclusion & two I've retained are the Tokina AT-X 24-40 f/2.8 and 35-70 f/2.8. I use mine of MF film bodies, (F3, FM & FE2's) so I can't say you'll see the same results on your digital D70, but they are high quality, rock solid, heavy & with optical qualities/sharpness equal to their Nikon counterparts. One problem I've seen with third party lenses when shooting with film is that differing optical glass formula's result in color casts being introduced on your slides & negitives. Not so with the Tokina's, they seem to produce results identical to Nikon. This may not present a problem with your D70 as you can tweek WB to compensate. The 24-40 does have a tendency to flare when shot towards the sun, a good hood is mandatory & hard to find. I finally settled on a 'Sonia' wide angle hood, it does work well.<br>
Give yourself time to get used to the controls on the Tokina, (f/stop, zoom & focus), and I think you'll find that it's a fine, high quality lens.</p>
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<p>Nothing new here, but my fav's are, AIS 200 f/4, AIS 35 f/2.0 & an old AI'd 85 f/1.8 which is heavy, but I find is definitely sharper than my 85 f/2.0. The good old 50mm f/1.8 is a great performer, actually I prefer it over my f/1.4, but somehow doesn't see a lot of usage.</p>
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<p>Scott, I'm a life long Nikon user, both film & Digital SLR's & one of the REAL plus factors is their interchangable lens mounts. I've a collection of approx. 40 Nikon lenses from fairly early MF lenses thru the latest AF-G-VR lenses & they are all usable on all my Nikon Camera Bodies. Since your older Canon lenses will not be usable on the latest Canon bodies that becomes a mute question for you to consider. Both Canon & Nikon are excellent DSLR's. I'd suggest that you go to the B&H web site where you can set up a side by side, feature by feature comparison of the two bodies & decide which features are most important to you. You might also pre-decide what lenses you'd want & run a cost comparison of each brand to evaluate their cost. You'll probably be better off , cost wise, with canon, but it really depends on your specific needs. You'll also need a new flash unit for a DSLR, so consider that cost as part of the package too.</p>
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<p>As Ilkka stated, you're confusing two different things. Your wife really isn't talking about shutter lag time. With the great majority of todays digital point & shoots, shutter lag time has become so minimal that you're not even concious of a lag, (it's in mili seconds). What she may already have, (double check her cameras instruction manual), is called 'burst mode', some manufacturers may have differing terms, but it is a function that you select from your camera's set-up menu. Problem with it is that it's fine in daylight, the only constraint there is your cameras buffer speed, but it won't function in any flash mode because you have to allow enough time for the flash units capasitor to recharge, & that takes a number of seconds, & it gets longer as the camera batteries discharge. I'd suggest you go to a web site such as B&H, go to some P&S cameras & look at their spec sheets to see how they define 'Burst Speed'. I think you'll find that manufacturers fail to provide a numerical value, so the best course is then to rely on that old tune, "You Get What You Pay For".</p>
Options for flash (TTL) for D70 on a budget
in Nikon
Posted
<p>Just a note of caution, the older versions of both the Vivitar 283's & 285 HV have very high trigger voltages & can burn out the low voltage trigger flash circutry of todays DSLR's.<br>
Both those Vivitars are winners thought, I'm still using a 283 on my Nikon F3hp</p>