john_baum1

I fell for a USB microscope that appears to be like all the others. The focus control is very stiff and hard to adjust. The optics are minimal and have no depth of field. I inherited a 50+ year old Prior positioning device which I've adapted to allow me to move the 'microscope' precisely in three directions. In the X-Y plane I can find the object and with the Z direction (up/down) I can focus constrained by the cheap optics. The LED lights flicker with every adjustment. I am an amateur, not a professional. I am long retired. I have a limited budget. Perhaps it is not consistent with a market which is filled with useless junk and/or expensive research tools with nothing in the middle ground.

If you've found something, please let me know.

thanks

baumgrenze

I have a Rollei P11 that I soon want to sell. I need help describing the slide trays.

I have 2 sizes of slide tray or magazine. One is 4x4 cm (I remember these as made for 35mm slides and mounted they fit) and 6x6 cm (I'm unclear what size to call this one.)

The larger one was made by Rollei and carries DBP 1033928. Searching this part number turns up no useful hits. The smaller ones are Leitz or Bauer/Leitz and carry no number.

The last page of the manual describes projecting 12x17 mm, 24x36 mm, 4x4 cm, and 6x6 cm (which I believe matches the Hasselblad 2-1/4 mounted slide.)

I can project a slide without difficulty manually, but the mechanical transport mechanism and the remote focus don't work any more. I understand that this is because rubber parts have hardened.

How much should I discount my projector to allow an interested buyer to professionally restore it to 'good working order?' I trust there are still technicians in shops who can do such work.

thanks

baumgrenze

I have a functioning 19" Dell P990 Trinitron CRT monitor that needs a new home.

I plan to post it on the SFBay craigslist. I would like to price it so that I neither I nor the purchaser is exploited. Can anyone offer me a sense of what is a fair price?

I'm selling because I have retinal issues and can no longer appreciate the subtlety of the monitor's quality image.

thanks

John

<p>I am running Win 7 Pro x65. I do not have iTunes installed on my desktop; it resides only on the iPhone.<br>

Last Tuesday I used a USB port to recharge my iPhone 5. I knew there were no new images on the phone. I was asked by the phone if I trusted by desktop (part of the standard process when downloading photos) and said yes. I charged the phone for about 45 minutes. Later I used ZTree to search for an image and was amazed to discover that about 3,500 jpg and png files all had their 'last modified' dates changed while the iPhone was attached.<br>

I know that modifying a JPEG file degrades its quality. What is the likelihood that the "mass modification" of these files as reported in the changed "Last Modified" date degraded them?<br>

I have backups for most of these images. If I restore them with their correct dates, has anyone any idea how to prevent this happening again.<br>

thanks<br>

baumgrenze</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Looks like up-and-down. Here's what I see at 7:45 PM PST. The upper shows their URL but the lower, opened by the contact-us button on the red banner opens a 3rdcart.com window that is 'untrusted.' I will keep trying and perhaps call tomorrow morning during CST business hours.<br>

Earlier today I concluded that single use alkaline drycells are just too untrustworthy for continued use in anything save perhaps disposable applications. The display on an remote thermometer unit was a bit faint, but still reading. I opened it to discover 2 leaking DuraCell AAA batteries, still reading 1.1V but threatening the device. It is time to switch over to low self-discharge NiMH batteries. They also make more economic/ecological sense.<br>

baumgrenze</p><div></div>

<p>I know that Thomas Distributing was a small storefront in rural Illinois, but their prices and service (and support information) for small batteries was outstanding. There are recommendations in individual forum entries as recent as last month.<br>

<br />I just tried to open their site:</p>

<p>www.thomasdistributing.com</p>

<p>and got a weird storefront called "Sample Store" selling buttons and hats.</p>

<p>Does anyone know what happened to these good people?</p>

<p><br />Thanks,</p>

<p>baumgrenze</p>

<p>My Mom used a Stereo Realist camera from the early 1950’s well into the 1980’s and captured some very nice images in the process. I’m evaluating new slide scanners since my PhotoSmart C5100A is giving me fits (see recent post) and want to consider ones that would scan the stereo mounts easily.</p>

<p>Mom, bless her, set out to preserve her mounts by sandwiching them between glass slides with black tape. Consequently what I have are overall mounts that are 100 x 40 x 3 mm, with the diapositive film mounted ~1.5 mm from either face. The stereo dispositive images are 22 x 24 mm. For those who are unfamiliar, I will include an image.</p>

<p>http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/8351/stereorealistmountedima.th.jpg<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us</p>

<p>My concerns are</p>

<p>1) getting the scanner to readily accept the mounted image<br>

2) the depth of field of the scanner. (If it is fixed focus will the image be in focus during scanning.)</p>

<p>I tried a search of the forum but had trouble weeding out helpful posts from chaff.</p>

<p>Is there any chance that the Plustek OpticFilm 7600i Ai scanner will perform this task readily?</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>baumgrenze</p>

<p>I am trying to recalibrate my long unused PhotoSmart C5100A SCSI scanner. I have a 'symptom' but no indication of what it is intended to communicate.</p>

<p>1) To make a fresh start, I unplug the power cord</p>

<p>2) The scanner sets itself to scan slides</p>

<p>3) I press the settings bar and it moves to negatives.</p>

<p>4) When the light is steady and then off, I press again to go to prints.</p>

<p>5) With much grinding, etc it moves through the 'print' setting and resets the opening for slides and all the lights illuminate as though it is 'ready' to scan slides, 35 mm negative, and up to 5x7 prints. It is 'hung' at this point and will do nothing until I 'reboot' it by going to step (1) above.</p>

<p>6) I can get it to scan a slide. I control it using VueScan. Unfortunately, the resulting scan is badly out of focus, so I think the scanner needs to be calibrated.</p>

<p>7) The scanner seems to do a bit better with color negatives.</p>

<p>What am I doing wrong?</p>

<p>Should I throw in the towel and try to find something more contemporary? Should I be considering the Plustek 7600i-Ai? This review seems to give it good marks.</p>

<p>http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/scanners/plustek.shtml</p>

<p>I am working on a GamePC, custom built PC, constructed in Feb 2008. It is based on an Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (2.4 GHz) on a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P Intel P35 ATX motherboard and a SAPPHIRE HD 3870 512MB GDDR3 PCI-E video card. I have elected to continue to use my 18" Dell 990 with color management by Pantone & X-Rite - hueyPRO Ambient Calibration Application Version 1.5.0.</p>

<p>It is probably stretching this inquiry a bit far, but I am running XP-Pro/SP3 (fully patched) and use PS Elements 6.0 which Secunia is telling me is 'end of life' software. What experience have others had with 'upgrades' of software? At age 72 I am loath to spend time learning new software just to have access to 'bells and whistles' I will never use.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>baumgrenze</p>

<p>Steve,</p>

<p>If you have moved on from W2000 to XP or even more recent Windows OS, you should know that VueScan provides an alternative way to access scanners that are 'no longer supported' by the manufacturer. Take a look at:</p>

<p>www.hamrick.com</p>

<p>I first bought the Standard Edition but eventually moved to the Professional Edition because of the extended upgrade privilege. You will probably be able to make far more complete use of VueScan than I do. I've just been pleased that it has allowed me to continue to use my C5100A and my Epson Perfection 636U flatbed without having to hunt for drivers and then worrying about what gets delivered with a download these days.</p>

<p>I find it amazing that Ed Hamrick has included OCR software files to allow recognition of these 32 languages, Bulgarian, Catalan, Chinese (Simplified), Chinese (Traditional), Czech, Danish, Dutch, English, Finnish, French, German, Greek, Hungarian, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese, Korean, Latvian, Lithuanian, Norwegian, Polish, Portuguese, Romanian, Russian, Serbian, Slovak, Slovenian, Spanish, Swedish, Tagalog, Turkish, Ukrainian, Vietnamese.</p>

<p>baumgrenze</p>

I have a Rollei P11 projector which I was given at work when it was retired 15 or more years ago. Most visitors

giving seminars had 35mm slides and it was not 'ideal' for this format. Slides regularly jammed. Also, Kodak sold

a new model whose lens ''corrected for" the bow in cardboard mounted 35 mm slides.

I am preparing the projector for sale. I began inspecting it and find that it has an 'unexpected' bulb in it, a

Sylvania CYK 400W bulb. This is not the bulb specified in the manual (Type G 17q). Does anyone know if the CYK

uses the same socket as the Type G 17q? Could it be that the projector was modified to take this type bulb? I

believe that it only has one heat filter mounted. I will try to include a photo of the appropriate section of the

projector

I have a copy of the English language user's manual (E0268 G&I). It is 12 pages long. I'd be glad to scan it to

jpg images suitable for a 'manual archive' if there is one on the forum. I will need some 'coaching' how to do

this to get it into the right place.

I am troubled that on page 4 one instruction reads "The lens pulls out and is interchangeable (->page 13)." There

is no page 13.

In another post "Rollei P11 slide projector - advice and leads on finding slide magazines"

Chauncey Walden , May 28, 2008; 06:01 p.m. says:

"Sometimes the rubber friction gear gets hard with age and slips. You have to clean it off and rough it up a little."

Can anyone provide a bit more detail regarding finding and cleaning this part of the projector?

With the lens out (1:3.5 f = 110-160 Vario) I can see that some helpful soul wrapped white lab labeling tape

around the rubber drive roller that manages the focus. Perhaps it would be better to follow the "clean and

roughen" advice given above for this part, too?

Thanks for any insights.

John<div></div>