antony_glaser

<p>Very glad you are making use of this Camera. Your photographs shows interest. I have the Ft2, and will use it for slides later this month</p>

<p>Did a test film for a Nikon FM. Amazed that half shutter speeds were accepted. If two red lights show I understand this is a half stop under and over exposure. No problem for print film. Yet what is best for slide tolerance, middle centring with either the + or -' s showing. I understand the metering is very sensitive compared to earlier cds and sicilion systems, but on my test film, I was spending too much time trying to centre the middle LED. I find the needle system far easier ie Nikkormat Ft2. If the Nikon FM was aimed for the mass amateur market there is a considerable know how to anticipate the correct exposure, if time is of the essence ie fast sports / moving events.</p>

<p>I want to start using this Camera, having purchased a nice copy for £80.00 last year. My lens are 28mm to 100mm. I want to use it for taking slides of gardens and buildings. What metering options (centre weighted , matrix patterned etc) does it have. My ambition is to get as good slide exposure as possible What is better for my picture taking options ie Programme / aperture or Manual ? </p>

<p>What were the notable Japanesse SLR's of this year. I know of Nikon F on going sucess, but am only slightly aware of the inroads made by Miranda DR and Minolta SR2 . Sure there were more game players ! Must have been exciting period just before the 1963 Topcon TTL.</p>

<p>Can I have the names of the Canon Rangefinders models in the 1960s. When did the market go over to SLR's ?</p>

<p>I would like to know what were the big SLR sellers from 1970. I can imagine the big league Pentax Spotmatic and Minolta SRT 101, but any others ? This may help me purchase a Camera I would never have known about ?</p>

<p>I wanted to know that when this Camera came out in 1972 was it considered the most sophisticated AE to date. Who were its main competitors during its Mark 1 1972-76 foray ( pre- ELW and EL2) How well made were they and have they a legacy ?</p>

<p>I am a big fan of the Nikkormat FT2, but realise such models were considered by the late 70's to be too expensive to make, and not what the public wanted in size and functionality terms. The improved AI Nikkormat FT3 lasted a year. Then the brand was defunct. The advent of AE electronic SLR's had arrived ie Canon AE1, Pentax ME etc. Even your modernised Manual's like Pentax MX and Nikon FM had finished with the traditional needle metering etc. Some Firms could not make the transition and went bust like Miranda etc ( last throw of the dice Miranda EE2). <br />Essentially what did the Public want and how did this serve the onus on mass marketing and the lowering of production costs. Even the Nikon EM was targetted to the assumed Female market.</p>

<p>Again we need a debate on what is a Classic Camera. Cannot help but think that a SLR that can do Full Manual with either Shutter Prority or Aperture Prority is in, but Programme etc is out. Is Classic Camera about essential mechancial construction purity (with plastic chassis accepted) or can we realise that with the Digital revolution one can now sentimalise over a 22 year old SLR that has edged to being a classic camera, by virture of it using film, had a short run, and for Yashica at least was their last SLR range before concentrating on Compacts. If that is not History then what is ? <br>

As a time line is 1985 your end line for Classic, its so arbituary.</p>

<p>The Yashica AF200 was a scaled down version of the AF230. I want to use my one in manual mode, but it seems to leave you doing the guesswork, with a initial recommended manual setting but with no control interface allowing for reciprocal adjustment or screen display gauging the centering. ie your -5 to +5 range. Any tricks or is this a dead loss, and Aperture Prority or Programme etc would be the better advised</p>

<p>Cannot think beyond the Olympus OM2 or Nikkormat FT2 models . Was Canon busy ? Any further info ?.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Olympus Om1 - Perfect travel size</p>

<p>Canon EF SLR - Convenient Shutter Priority SLR from 1973</p>

<p>Nikkormat FT2 - A glorious Nikon manual SLR</p>

<p>I use slide and Peak Imaging Sheffield UK give me every confidence there is a stream lined approach to processing and turn over times. Never had it so good</p>

<p>When I am focussing on my Pentax SP2, I notice the intended image has a 1.04 magnification factor. When would this present a problem for accurately getting everything in the frame, a close up of a rose etc, is well envisaged, but for other scenarios I need further clarification. Is 1.04 bigger than then contempary SLR cameras ?</p>

<p>I wanted to take a slide pictures (ISO 200) at Wisley, whereby my first picture was of a 40 ft expanse of water, with a water fountain in the middle . At the end of the water was a gated brick wall. Standing on the elevated ledge some sky was included. The meter of my camera could not settle in the exact middle, ever it was slightly over / under. I read if the battery was flat then the needle would not function. More importantly the weather was down cast. When the scenery was the same hue ie green , the problem did not happen. But I was severely shaken by the thought my Camera was playing up. Last meter was F8 1/30 as the open light was fading and I took a photo of grey ground that had recently been a Pinetum. What could have happened ?</p>

<p>I haven't used the Camera for a year, and I forgot that I can only use the instruction guide for metering. Sunny weather 1/500 for 200-400 ISO film. Any tips on more advanced metering. Would not know how to use this camera manually ? Bet I would need a light meter. Unless manual is just for slight exposure under/over rides based on the Auto recommendations ?</p>

<p>My Canon EF's serial number is 256309 and it has the earlier microprism focusing circle screen. It is a beaut of a design, and it ceased being sold in 1978, by which time it must have been old hat - size wise, despite packing in so much extras, full aperture, silicion metering, copal square shutter, iso 12-3200 and MLU et al</p>

<p> I was very fortunate to purchase a second hand Nikormat EL under a 6 month guarantee, from a professional seller. Always curious to test the Camera after purchase, I tried out the the self timer delay I did this twice . However, on the second time. the timer delay stopped halfway through. The viewing screen went black. The shutter and advance lever just froze.</p>

<p>I visited a second party Camera shop and was orginally told, on curious inspection the shutter blades were damaged. However I returned the Camera to the seller, to see if it could be fixed, or money refunded.I have just heard the Camera is being stripped down, because the rachet to the self timer had become dis-engaged. A major implication arising from the worn operation of a Electro- Mechanical Camera<br>

Some lessons here. An E Bay purchase would have not provided a guarantee, assuming it was from an individual, and even though the repair has taken some time, it is been done thoroughly by the shops recommended and trusty service man. Win ! Win!</p>

<p>I despair to hear second hand Camera shops are going down the drain. The casual collector is at a severe disadvantage as shown.</p>

<p>I have a simple question. I wanted to test the timer delay on my recently purchased Nikkormat EL. I did this twice . However, on the second time. The timer delay stopped halfway through. The viewing screen went black. The shutter and advance lever just froze. Before this the Camera worked fine. The battery power is still active. I tested the timer delay, when the advance lever was not at the 30% angle (battery power activated). However as this is also a mechancial camera this would not have been material ?<br>

Thank you</p>

<p>My Lens are 18mm-55mm 1.3.5 - 5.6G VR</p>

<p>I have seen a nice looking Nikkormat EL. I would ideally like to know is age. It has black plastic on the film transport lever. I was told this was 1975 circa, but the model's number is 5115492. Are their any wear and tear issues I shall beware of ? Being non AI, how does this model differ from the Nikon FE, in any other way ?</p>

<p>I have an opportunity to photograph an awards presentation at work. I have a Nikon D60 with standard zoom lenses VR . I will be using flash. Two questions 1) What is the best setting - Auto or Programme etc. 2) will the D60 automatically calculate the lighting type and make allowances. Any other advice ?</p>

<p>Any tips on focussing with these lens. In theory the rangefinder line should help, but I find it difficult to know if I have any clearly foccused, ie the difference between 6 to 12 ft is difficult to determine. In theory the fresnel screen should be an extra aid, but thats where the difficulties start. I have no clearity. It is not a dirty screen issue either. A possible user problem is the lens go up to 60ft, and over focussing may be a sympton of the accuracy issue. Any tips available . My Camera is the FT2 model</p>

<p>Thank you, would never have guessed that was the reason. Thought screen black outs happened to pre 1950's SLR's ie split beam.. Nothing like time travel !</p>

<p>olympus om1 md</p>