marc_compton

<p>Hello Richard,<br>

I understand your questions and know that the Computer world is full of options and it can be confusing. You sound like you have a grasp of the important parts in a system, so I'll try to keep this short and simple. First saving a little money now, could cost you time and energy later. Buy the best you can afford, and always look for the best "bang for the buck" in every component. If an i7 Processor at 3.4ghz is too expensive, it is likely that an i7 at 2.8Ghz will suit just fine, and you would probably never even notice the difference.<br>

Windows 7 64 bit is a fantastic OS, but you must keep in mind when you purchase other software, get the 64bit versions. Go with a Solid State drive if you can find a decent deal on one... the are fast and reliable and the prices have come way down in recent years. Again find the best value in terms of size, no less than 60gb though, in my opinion. Your second drive will be your storage drive, get at least a 1TB, but storage is so cheap getting a 2TB is not out of the question if it fits your budget. You may consider getting a RAID set up for backup purposes, however you have many options there to consider. Backup is it's own issue.<br>

Graphic cards are tricky. There are some decent on-board graphics cards nowadays, but I would look into an actual card. nVidia makes a lot of good ones, I would get one with at least 1gb memory... lots of choices here, just do some research. I speak in dollars, but you should be able to find one around $100 that will suit your needs.<br>

Sound card is not necessary, but are affordable. If it fits your budget, get an affordable one now when you have this built.<br>

You have lots of choices in the Monitor department... LEDs are gaining popularity... Dell makes some great ones... look for the UltraSharp ones.<br>

Final note about this... be sure whomever builds this supplies you with a proper Power Supply. Spend a bit extra here so it is not always running at 100%. If you over strain your PS it will fail quickly.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Marc</p>

 

<p>Hey Andrew,<br>

I totally understand your situation. I find myself doing exactly the same thing with my images. I am really just starting out, and it is a real hindrance to my development. I think if I could be critical, while maintaining a kind acceptance of where I am at in my development of the art, I would be more able to accurately judge my work.<br>

This being said, I think part of the experience of photography and art is to share your work with others and to learn from how they experience it. I do not always love work that others have done, but I do attempt to understand the intent and process taken without being overly critical.<br>

My thought is "good" art is subjective, but usually there are common themes in what is considered really great work. Those are the themes that have eluded me thus far.<br>

Good luck to you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I agree with Howard's answer, and to add to it, calibration is really the key. No monitor is "perfect" and they change with age. True accuracy can only be accomplished with, at minimum, a knowledge of Photoshop (or whatever program you use) and with calibration of your monitor on a regular basis (once a month or so should be plenty with a new monitor). A calibrated printer and paper profile is recommended as well as then you have controlled many of the variables in your work flow. You can achieve good results without going to all that trouble but for true predictable, results every time, you must calibrate. Many photo stores rent this equipment, or there are many options for purchase.</p>

<p>Mac Book Pros have come down a bit recently and may even more with the new MBP coming out. Shop Macmall or Macconnection and take a look. There are some very nice models with great rebates out there. You may be suprised what you can get. Give your wife the old machine, bite the bullet and spend 1600 or so and then bask in the glow of a Brand new MBP. <a href="http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail.asp?Redir=1&description=Apple%2D15%2E4%22+MacBook+Pro+%2D+Intel+Core+2+Duo+2%2E4GHz+2GB%2C+200GB%2C+SuperDrive%2DMacBook+Pro&dpno=7405626">http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail.asp?Redir=1&description=Apple%2D15%2E4%22+MacBook+Pro+%2D+Intel+Core+2+Duo+2%2E4GHz+2GB%2C+200GB%2C+SuperDrive%2DMacBook+Pro&dpno=7405626</a><br>

Good luck!</p>

 

<p>Mac Book Pros have come down a bit recently and may even more with the new MBP coming out. Shop Macmall or Macconnection and take a look. There are some very nice models with great rebates out there. You may be suprised what you can get. Give your wife the old machine, bite the bullet and spend 1600 or so and then bask in the glow of a Brand new MBP. <a href="http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail.asp?Redir=1&description=Apple%2D15%2E4%22+MacBook+Pro+%2D+Intel+Core+2+Duo+2%2E4GHz+2GB%2C+200GB%2C+SuperDrive%2DMacBook+Pro&dpno=7405626">http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail.asp?Redir=1&description=Apple%2D15%2E4%22+MacBook+Pro+%2D+Intel+Core+2+Duo+2%2E4GHz+2GB%2C+200GB%2C+SuperDrive%2DMacBook+Pro&dpno=7405626</a><br>

Good luck!</p>

 

<p>How about Lightroom, Aperture or Adobe Bridge that comes with CS3 and above... I am thinking of converting from PC to MacBook Pro as well. I use Bridge with CS3 on my PC and it is great. I hear good things about aperture and Lightroom though. Any other issues with your new MAC that a fellow PC convert might need to know?</p>

OK, I have been in a similar situation, although my trip was only a week and I was able to make do with extra CF cards. Honestly, for the price of laptops right now, you can hardly beat that solution. The bonus is you also have a laptop to get online and communicate with the world, if you choose to. The secondary solution that comes with most laptops today is a DVD drive, and the third if you have internet access is web based storage. One thing to keep in mind however is that if you are not in a hotel or location with free and fast web access, it can take a long time for uploading large RAW files. Anyway, for $599 or less you're on your way and it is an investment you won't regret in the future. Getting a 15" size or smaller will keep the weight down as well...

I think it is a valid attempt at "cheating the system" honestly. It may not always be possible to shoot multiple shots for certain types of images, for example sporting events.

 

I would love to know if what he is asking is possible, if only to learn what may be accomplished with a single image.

I have CS2 and am practicing using HDR to get a better quality image shooting Architectural Interiors mainly using

availible light. I plan on using some fill light (strobes) but hope to maintain a natural feel to the images, and only

balanace the darkest shadows in a room. I have been practicing using HDR, but am having some problems with the

blending techniques... Any quick practical techniques out there?

 

Some if not most of the images may contain natural daylight, but also interior lighting that is most likely tungsten.

Do I attempt to change my White Balance in between shots when I auto Bracket, or do I adjust for color change in

post? Any pointers, especially if you have shot architectural interiors before are appreciated! I am a newbie, and

have a shoot in about a week and a half.

 

One thing to mention I am using a DNR convertor to be able to shoot RAW and then use CS2 to import the RAW

file... takes a bit longer, but enables me to use software I already own.

 

Thanks.

Thank you all for your input and great insight into my situation. I love seeing everyone's take on the situaion and

different solutions people have come up with.

 

A Aboud Dweck, I have CS2 and Utilize a DNR convertor, to enable me to import RAW images into CS2. Can I use

CS2 to accomplish what you are doing with CS3? Is it a comparable solution, or is CS2 that much different from

CS3?

 

I would prefer to shoot availible light as much as possible on this shoot, but I think having the option of some fill light

will help in large rooms with multiple adjacent halls with shadows in different connecting rooms and differing intensity

of window light. I am new with using strobes, so your solution is a good one. The stobes will complicate my life

somewhat to be sure... but I'll feel better knowing it is an option. That being said, please let me know what you think

of using HDR with CS2 and if I could accomplish results similar to those with CS3.

 

Thanks.

I am new to photography, but have taken some classes and practice quite a lot. I have a friend who was the interior

designer on a large home out here in California. The home is large and architecturally quite stunning. It is around

15,000 square feet in what is basically a spanish style... think red tile roof and lots of off white plaster interiors with

some dark wood beams thrown in. My question / comment is I have two days to shoot it, much of it will hopefully be

by availible light to take advantage of the large windows, bright white walls and rich finshes. Do I go strobe, or

continuous to accent and fill in the shadows or would strobe be the way to go? I will be renting the lights, so I have

options there. I have heard some opinions already but would love to get more input from people who have been in

this situation. I am familiar with strobes, but have limited studio experience, and none on location. Do I need an off

camera light meter or can I try to use my digital camera meter and trust my eye?

If strobes are the way to go, any suggestions as to a specific brand/type to look for to rent? I know I want to get

some relfectors, and nice bright lights to fill in on the larger spaces, but specifics would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Hey again, First off to answer Richard's question, the best way I can describe the style is a mix of Spanish/Mediterranean. It is a beautiful home with lots of plaster in some large spaces. I have now seen three or four images of the home, which were taken in daylight, an it seems to have very nice natural day lighting. I have a lot of unknowns, as I can't get into the place until about two days before the shoot.

 

Thanks Adi for your information. I was thinking of buying the Tokina 12-24mm f4 lens for this shoot... anyone know anything about this lens? I read good things on the web and will try to get my hands on one locally.

 

When you said you use "two diffused flashes for fill in" do you (pardon my ignorance) mean that you shoot with two strobes? I'll probably be renting lights for this, any advice or tips about what to look for?

 

Thanks again for all of your input!

 

Marc

Hey Matt,

I have a date set to scout the shoot at least once prior to the actual shoot. I have two full days to do it, so I feel I have adequate time... I have a tripod and wired remote.

 

She plans on using the images as a part of her Interior Design portfolio, which could include a website at some point.

 

Thanks for your input!

 

Marc

Hey everyone, I just registered to this site and really like it so far. I have been stoked with all of the great

advice and support everyone seems to give out. The greatest teacher is experience, and it is such a painful

thing to gain at times. I am trying to do my homework to produce some successful images and have a happy client

when everything is said and done.

 

I am a beginning photographer and have limited experience shooting Architectural Interiors. Nonetheless, I have

bravely accepted a challenge to shoot a friend of a friend's project that she was the Interior Designer on. This

is no small task as the home is large, and quite detailed although I have not seen it yet. The shoot is in a

month, so I am doing some homework on techniques and or opinions on how best to tackle this job. I work in the

Architectural Industry, so am familiar with what is beautiful and Architecturally significant in a home, so that

is not an issue for me, however there are challenges I don't know how to solve just yet.

 

Lighting is my main concern. I spoke to one lighting pro and they said I could go with hot lights as opposed to

strobes... The house is most likely Tungsten anyway, so they would balance right out of the box. I have had

limited experience with strobes in studio photography, so don't have a ton of confidence in getting what I want

right away. Any opinions out there? The rooms figure to be large (the house is 15,000 sq. ft.), so I am

planning on simply accenting whatever available light I have, and keeping a warm effect. I don't want to light

it up like a basketball arena... Am I on the right track?

 

I plan on renting lights and possibly a wide angle lens. I currently have a 17-85 IS for my Canon 30d, but I

thought a wider lens (12mm or so) was called for.

 

Any advice is very greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.