brad_richardson1

Thank you for your responses - appreciated

In my lunchtime, I walk around the business district CBD and often wish I had a lightweight camera for street photog that slipped into my shirt pocket - but that was not a phone. Perhaps one of those slim Sonys or Canons. Should not be conspicuous. Doesn't have to be a current model either as there many used cameras for sale. RAW would be nice but not a must have. I've never followed these camera models so I am starting from scratch and would appreciate any suggestions.

<p>Thank you very much to everyone. You have helped me and I have re read all your responses a couple of times.<br>

I now understand the way the metering is being displayed. To summarise, in P mode when flash attached, camera automatically sets to 1/60th (minimum) and displays the light deficiency expected to be filled by the flash. From experience, I agree with the criticism of P mode for flash. I note that if the D300 metering is set to centre weighted or matrix the SB600 flash sets itself to iTTL-BL whereas if the metering is set to spot the SB600 sets itself to iTTL. In situation where there is too much difference between dark and light the balanced option fails to light the subject sufficiently. This is why I was getting subject under exposure.<br>

Better practice is to spot meter on subject using S, A or M mode where flash is necessary to capture an acceptable image of the subject. Balanced fill flash (in P mode) acceptable where rendering of low lights (under the eyes for example) could be improved with use of a little extra artificial light, the difference between available light and the extra lighting required not being that great.<br>

Please feel free to correct me or let me know off your approach as would really appreciate it. The context is social family photography. Thank you all again. <br>

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<p>I am not referring to the + / -. I am referring to the arrow that appears above the 5.6. In the two photos, this bar is a different size - what is this bar - why is it there - what is its purpose and why is it only there when flash is used? I'm concerned that i have a setting wrong because I'm getting under exposed flash photos. </p>

<p>Attachment 2</p><div></div>

<p>Attachmen</p><div></div>

<p>Please help me with an explanation of the metering I'm seeing. I have attached two photos to assist with my query (they are phone photos). Using a D300 and SB600 flash in iTTL BL (balanced flash) in P mode I see the exposure meter shows an arrow which is never usually there and I have not been able to find an explanation for it. The shots are way under exposed. Then I change to M mode and and increase the exposure and the bar backs off a little and the shots are improved. I think I have something wrong here. ISO set at 400 with matrix metering. What is this arrow/bar? Why does it appear when flash attached? what is it telling me? Thank you.</p>

<p>Thank you everybody - what a wonderful community!</p>

<p>I recently purchased the "less expensive" 50mm 1:1.8D lens to use on my D300 (even though its FX not DX) and I am so pleased that its physically smaller than other zooms and primes I own and the quality is fine. Can you tell me of any other not so bulky lenses for D300? Thanks.</p>

<p>Thank you for your responses.I'm going to forget about exiftool - so back to basics - I have a Nikon d300 - I don't use use photoshop or capture NX or any post production software - i just shoot jpegs and load them in iphoto on my mac - what is the quick and easiest way of seeing the shutter count? </p>

<p>Hi, <br>

Can someone please tell me how to get all the all exif data from my jpegs on a mac? I use iphoto and I want to see all the meta data that would be revealed by a program like exiftool - which I have downloaded and I can't get it to work. I am specifically interested in shutter count - I don't use photoshop - I don't use windows - any instruction greatly appreciated. Thank you. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have Thom's guide (700 pages) but what is the best practical guide on using the camera - thanks for your thoughts</p>

<p>Thank you for your responses. I have to admit, I am disappointed that this information, especially as explained by Nick, is not more transparent, I mean just stated up front by manufacturers. I wanted the 17-50mm Tamron zoom for photographing social events and I wanted a zoom lenses to work seamlessly with the SB600. I did not want to be stopping to make manual adjustments here and there depending on the focal length I using. Nick - this didn't stop you buying the lenses? Actually, I decided on this lens after making a recent post here about the normal (wide aperture) zooms that were in vogue. I guess I'm having trouble rationalizing going back to a Nikon less expensive kit zoom - just to get it to work with the flash - and I really want it to work with the flash. </p>

<p>I'm considering buying the Tamron SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di II VC (model B005) to use with my D300 and SB600 flash, however I'm suspicious that the zoom lens won't work with the camera/flash the way it should, ie get the zoom distance info and various flash adjustments correct. I can't find any technical info out there to allay my concerns. Does anyone know how to test it, or where there is some confirmation from manufacturer that it works with SB600 ok? Thanks. </p>

<p>I use a D300 with 30mm f/1.4 Sigma, however I need to use a standard zoom for an upcoming social event. I was looking at the low cost Nikon zoom options, (say the 18 - 55mm VR) however reviews say that the bokeh is poor compared to a lens like the Sigma. Attributable to the not very low f stops of the standard zooms and the optics. What are the standard zoom lens options available where the quality of the bokeh is not compromised. I realise this is partly subjective, but those are the opinions I would appreciate. Thanks. ps I realise I could spend a small fortune to achieve... but I was trying to avoid. </p>

<p >I am considering buying the inexpensive 50mm f1.8 II standard len for a 50D body and I am concerned that it may not be completely compatible with Canon’s iTTL flash system. I don’t want to be disappointed if I eventually buy a Speedlite 580EX II and find that the 50mm lens was cheap because it doesn’t have a bunch of smarts that other (much more expensive) lens have that integrate with the Canon flash system. I understand that the 50mm ED is an old design etc, does this mean distance and other critical info is not communicated back to the camera body / flash system etc? Thanks for you time, any comments appreciated.</p>

<p>G'day Zack, you may already be aware of this but in case you aren't, there is an excellent DVD available from Nikon where Joe McNally demos the Nikon CLS, its not expensive and if you haven't watched it I recommend you get a copy. I just wanted to mention this to you, I don't have Nikon gear, and I am considering what to get, but my analysis so far seems to indicate that the Nikon CLS is in a league of its own as far as off flash camera goes. McNally also has a couple of helpful books. I have not yet found a chart or whatever, indicating which flash / camera can control what groups. For instance I know that you have to go up to a D90 body before you get wireless flash capability in the Nikon camera bodies - but beyond that - how may groups - and which flashes - will each body control. Also the question of backwards compatibility - eg the D300 was released before the SB900 (i think) however I haven't seen confirmation that the d300 is completely compitible with the SB900 (it is usually mentioned with the SB800) - cheers </p>

<p>Flashes - Ted Thayer - "Quantum or Lumadyne". Apologies for straying off the subject a little - I was looking at the Nikon SB-900 flash unit and noted that the Nikon CLS ("Creative Lighting System") wireless capability began at their D90 level body and I didn't want to purchase any Nikon camera body that didn't have wireless capability after watching the instructional DVD released by Nikon featuring Joe McNally. I am only an amatuer and this DVD blew me away...so many possibilities with wireless flash control in the Nikon proprietary system (CLS). So could you kindly explain why Quantum or other non-OM flash would be better? Appreciate the time and effort other have put into this - thank you.</p>

<p>I'm hoping someone can explain this as I can't quite get it. I don't own a G10 but I am seriously considering one. The G10's onboard flash output can be increased or decreased in increments according to the manual. Does using the flash in this way mean that the camera is holding the exposure reading as a constant or is the exposure reading changing if the light conditions being read by the camera change and this change fed through to the flash regardless of the +/- adjustment made. On the other hand, can the flash output be held at a constant while the camera exposure settings are increased or decreased. I'm thinking of a situation where there is a dark scene and the camera's exposure is adjusted to correctly expose so part of the scene without flash (probably to distant /background to be effected by flash), and then some flash is introduced +/- to correctly expose some foreground subject, and then you choose to make some more camera exposure adjustment. Any comments outboard flash with G10 welcome.</p>

<p>I have looked at the review articles but I still can't see the answers I'm looking for to some basic questions about flashes that can be used with the G10 hot shoe , ie the 220EX, 430 EX II and 580 EX II. Firstly, when these flashes are connected to the hot shoe, is the in camera flash disabled? I assume so but I can't see anywhere that says so. Secondly, a more complicated question. Can someone set out what actually happens when these more sophisticated TTL flashes are used, ie if the camera is in auto mode how do the camera settings work, ie at a certain ISO, the camera will decide an aperture priority or shutter priority of what? this will be communicated to the flash and the the flash knows the distance (?) fires at a certain power, at a certain time? I just can't get to the basic set of rules that are followed by these flashes and from there, the additional flexibility they afford. </p>

<p>I would first like to thank everyone for their posts. I can now safely say that there are a range of third party accessories available for the G10 of which I was previously unaware. The availability of lenses, filters, lens hoods and adapters from the likes of lensmateonline and Raynox is worth taking into account when considering purchase of the G10. I would still like to hear from anyone who has experience with any of the tele, wide angle of fisheye lenses made for the G10 - thank again your guidance is appreciated. </p>

<p>Thank you for explaining that the G10 has a screw ring cover and that the RAK-DC2 replacement kit is an alternate (somewhat decorative) relacement for it if required, although it seems a strange sort of accessory. I hope it's obvious to you that I don't have a G10 but I am seriously considering one. Answers to other parts of my original post would be appreciated. Apologies for taking up your time at 2:38 a.m., I'm on the other side of the world.</p>

<p>Could someone guide me in regard to the other lens (if any) that would work with the G10 coupled with lens adapter accessory other than the tele-converter typically listed with the G10 accessories? Are there any images available of the ring accessory kit (RAK - DC2) fitted to the G10? (apologies - just curious as to what they look like in place). Finally, on the Canon USA website in "tips and advice" one of the photojournalists attaches a "35mm" viewfinder to the G10 shoe. Can someone identify the viewfinder and or explain thier experience with the G10 and an external optical viewfinder? thank you. </p>

I�m going on a walking trip and would like to take a slim lightweight compact digital camera with the largest lcd I can

get � would also like one that holds a large storage card so I don�t have to carry extra. My highest priority is a large

very clear lcd as I have seen on some compacts recently and ease of use in colder condition - possibly gloved hands.