premo_o

<p>They only have focus and zoom rings. No aperture rings.<br>

EOS lenses don't have aperture rings.<br>

I don't know about Nikon, but you have a better chance of finding a lens with an aperture ring there beacuse of compatibility with old manual Nikon lenses.</p>

<p>If you have the Canon version of the lens then of course you need a simple EOS to NEX adapter.<br>

As to the hyperfocal distance you are also absolutely right. <br>

However in practice - this lens is very difficult to focus using just the scale or the viewfinder - everything looks so far away (due to the wide angle lens) that you never know what is actually in focus. Also the scale is very inacurate so your hyperfocal distance calculations will not be useful either. Trust me this is not as easy as you would think - even in f/8. Before I bought my lens I also thought "how hard can it be?" :-)<br>

I try to focus using the live view with 10x magnification - this always works but as you might expect it is a slower process than you are probably used to.<br>

However once you get the focus right, the quality is superb even at f/2.8</p>

<p>The Canon version does not have any information passed to the camera, so on the camera you would have to set the aperture manually and then you could use aperture priority mode to set the shutter speed for you.<br>

I have the Nikon version with a special adapter for use with a Canon EOS camera. The adapter allows me to have focus confirmation and also let's the camera know my max aperture for this lens, so I don't have to dial in the maximum aperture myself. Also it shows this information in EXIF on image files.<br>

The adapter extends the lens so it would no longer allow focusing to infinity if I had bought the dedicated Canon lens and put such an adapter on it. The Nikon version on the other hand allows an adapter to be added without losing infinite focus. I am not sure if this would also work with the Sony camera.</p>

<p>As to buying this lens for a crop camera - I'm not sure this is such a good idea. An a crop camera the effective focal length would be about 22mm so it would not give you a proper ultra wide angle. If I had a crop camera I would opt for a proper wide angle lens like the Tamron 10-24 or Sigma 10-20 which are just a little more expensive but give you much more functionality and more wide angle (buying used would be the same price). Please bear in mind that a manual lens like the Samyang is much more difficult to operate then any auto-focus lens. I only have it because it gives me the ultra wide angle and sharpness that I can't get with any other lens even 3-times the price (using full frame of course). On a crop camera this is not the case.</p>

<p>Richard<br>

so how did the trip go? I'm really interested in reading about it<br>

thanks<br>

Premo</p>

<p>I have the 17-40 on a full frame and I find that at 17mm the corners are really bad (unsharp) from f/4 to f/8. This concers all corners evenly.<br>

At f/11 sharpness at the corners becomes acceptable.<br>

I have tested 3 different 17-40 lenses before I decided to buy the one that I have now. I though the corner issue was a problem with a specific lens, but after testing and reading up on the subject it seems that unsharp corners are simply a "feature" of this lens.</p>

<p>I've looked at the Sunpak's specs and it looks like you won't be able to trigger this unit using flash from your camera. If you feel the need to explore flash photografy further then I would urge you to invest in some kind of cable or wireless trigger for your flash units. Using the built-in flash is limiting and will not allow you any control of your light.<br>

As to some cheap flash units - you can try out some used Nikon SB-26. I have 2 of them and they are great for manual remote triggering - and you can trigger them as slave units. They are also very powerful and they won't cost you much.<br>

good luck</p>

<p>Are you sure you need to shoot 90 minutes non-stop? In most cases video is shot in several separate shots ranging from a few seconds to a minute or so.<br /> If you want to shoot continuously then you will just need to press pause and play again after about every 10 minutes of video to keep within the maximum file size (for HD video). This will only lose you about a second or so of video for every 10 minutes - which shouldn't matter that much.<br>

As to the overheating and battery problem - it's best that you check first at home. Also if you are shooting with a tripod without needing to move the camera - you may try to just turn off the LCD during shooting to get more out of your batery.<br>

good luck</p>

<p>The laptop or PC question is basically a portability issue nowadays.<br>

However for proper photo editing what you have to think about is a proper external monitor display which you can calibrate. Unfortunately even the best IPS displays on laptops are just poor cousins of stand-alone displays aimed at photo editors.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

Now this may be a stupid question but how can I set my 50D camera to take, say, a 1 minute exposure without using the BULB setting? I don't have a cable or wireless release and pressing the shutter button manually is not an option for long exposures. I don't believe that the maximum exposure on a prosumer camera is just 30 seconds.<br>

Please help<br>

Premo</p>

<p>Hi<br>

also you can check whether your camera is set to shoot sRGB color space instead of Adobe RGB. I had this problem once when converting Adobe RGB RAW files to jpegs. When I set the camera to register sRGB files - the conversion from RAW to jpegs was perfect.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I have a problem with my Canon 30D and I was wondering whether any of you had a similar problem and how you solved it.<br>

I lock the focus on my Eos 30D by pressing the shutter button half-way until I feel some resistance. The focus locks (the camera beeps). Then I keep holding the button and change the framing. When I then want to take the actual photo I press the shutter button fully, but then the camera beeps again and then clearly sets the focus again (this time not where I want it) before taking the photo. Please note that I was keeping the button pressed half-way all the time before fully pressing it to take the picture.<br>

I've been taking photos for many years and locking focusing each time without problems. However the above situation has been happening rather often lately and so I feel that there is something wrong with the camera itself. Or maybe there is some custom function which controls the focusing that I have changed by accident. Did any of you have a similar problem.<br>

I'll be greateful for any suggestions. Thanks</p>

I will be visiting the US in September starting with San Francisco.

I'm planning to buy the Canon 10-22 lens for my 30D so that I can use it during my whole trip.

Please help me with a reputable store with reasonable prices where I can buy Canon lenses in SF.

thanks

Been to Croatia twice in most of the placves tyou mention

Dubrovnik is a gem - I would recommend you stay a little longer there.

Istria is very touristy - lots of tourists and prices highest in Croatia. I prefer the south where it's more beautiful, quieter and cheaper, but harder to get to due to the long trip.

Driving around the coast is an attraction in itself, but the very bendy cliff road there is longer than it looks on the map due to constant bends and no place for overtaking other cars/trucks

allthe best