anderschr

I have a five-year old CRT, calibrated, and it does fine. People are in such a rush these days to replace their equipment-- where do you think all these monitors, digital cameras and cell phones go? It's a task to find even a legitimate recycling facility for these items. Disposable electronics are one of those problems that people are going to be hearing more about later on.

 

If I were you I would buy a colorimeter, and then consider selling it afterward. People on this board will tell you that you need to update your profile every month, but in my experience that is nonsense. You'll go cross-eyed trying to maintain a neutral grey at all times; color is relative anyhow-- this is especially worth consideration if you only do digital photography as a hobby.

Treating every shot as an HDR image would seem to me to take the pleasure out of photography. Not every image should be sensationalistic, as if you are working out-in-the-field for an advertising job. Take advantage of the classical restraints of photography as a medium while they are still standard. It sounds to me like you don't trust your capabilities.

I had a problem before with version 3. Every color profile I made left me with my blues having a distinct purple tint. It was either learning how to create an accurate profile, or reformatting my system that resolved the problem.

Thanks, I will have to look into trying out light room.

Noiseware is good. If you have windows, there is a free community edition.

The color looks better than mine, which has a very slight red bias. I think I may be over relying on color balance, since it seems I can never get it quite right anyhow.

 

What do you mean by fill light and white balance adjustment, in photoshop terms? And people do use brightness/contrast after all?

Not bad either. The color looks good-- what did you do, just curves? It looks a little over-sharpened.

Original is the first image, edited is the second. I only want to maintain the natural appearance of the scene,

as if you were to see it with your own eyes. I used levels adjustment, curves, color-balance and lonestar digital

sharpening.

 

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v608/Liono/?action=view&current=1.jpg" target="_blank"><img

src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/Liono/1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v608/Liono/?action=view&current=2-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img

src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v608/Liono/2-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

My camera is a panasonic point and shoot, no manual controls or RAW. The embedded color profile can't be changed as far as I know.

 

This isn't a good technique-- why not? I have to say this forum is often pedantic, if there is loss of information it isn't distinguishable to me. Yet all the same, if anyone else has a trick they use for saturation I would want to know about it.

My camera shoots in the sRGB profile. I discovered that assigning Adobe 1998 dramatically increases saturation,

which is often useful. Converting the image back to sRGB retains the added color.

 

Is this a common method? I've tried other ways to increase saturation, but none as quick and without loss of

information.

I'm using a cokin A300 holder, it attaches by the tripod mount for point-and-shoots.

 

<img src="http://www.cokin.co.uk/photos/ffast2.jpg">

 

This holder doesn't allow me to rotate it, but from turning the filter itself that doesn't appear to be how it's supposed to work anyhow.

 

"Using your standard polarizer will work, but the Blue/Yellow is a specialty filter. You can't the same effects with a standard polarizer."

 

I don't understand what you mean by this.

I bought this filter and wasn't aware beforehand that it doesn't rotate. Is it ok to use my standard hoya

circular-polarizer?

 

I took it outside and it does turn the image completely blue, or yellow, depending on the rotation. However the

colors on my point and shoot's LCD were shimmering-- is this filter not meant for digital use?

 

Thanks.

I noticed this not long ago, when I open images and go to resize in Photoshop, the dpi is set at 72. Do other

people with panasonic cameras have this as well? I know that it is probably inconsequential, but odd because no

one would want to print pictures at that resolution.

No, no, I've got a viewsonic CRT that's about 4 years old.

I did two tests in my darkened room, under the same conditions. Both had me move the RGB sliders around quite apart from eachother, which I find odd. Granted, what I have looks better than the monitor's more green 6500k, but the inconsistency in calibration doesn't make it seem as if I've reached a standard. I'll have to try again tonight.

I would agree, but the eye-one has me change the sliders depending on if I have a light on, it isn't constant. I suppose I'll have to wait until the sun goes down and calibrate in darkness.

I'm able to avoid the monitor reverting by selecting "user color" on the monitor, which has RGB sliders. From there I have attempted to create a 6500k white point through eye-one match. However, the new white point I've created is slightly different than the preset on the monitor, it is more red-- which one do I trust?

They are under different names...

It doesn't appear that I have any programs that do this. Windows XP doesn't allow me to view a newly assigned

profile until I restart. Only the eye-one match software allows me to do a before and after, after creating a

profile. Is there software that allows for instant comparison of different profiles?

I don't know what it is. I've tried uninstalling the nvidia drivers and eye-one software, and installing the original viewsonic drivers. It continues to boot in 9300k, and strangely on my monitor the 6500k option is still highlighted. You move it off and back however and it returns to true 6500k.

If anyone's still reading this thread. I'm working on my profile, oscillating back and forth between 9300 and 6500k-- but having a problem. Everytime I create a profile and restart, the monitor shifts into 9300k no matter what profile is loaded. Something may be interfering. I've uninstalled adobe gamma, could it possibly be the nvidia control panel?

Edit: I've played around with this more, and I do find better results with the ambient light check turned off-- it makes sense for rooms that

have inconstant lighting. What I've also found is that my viewsonic CRT favors 9300k, and 6500k invariably leaves my whites looking more

yellow, no matter how I change the profile. I think the 6500 recommendation applies more to LCDs with their greater luminosity.

I'm almost in the same boat, Bk. Except that I have the display 2 and my monitor is a g90fb-2, I assume they're similar.

 

I see what looks like it could be a yellow-red cast. I was going to ask on this forum if surrounding light can compensate in one way or another-- because my room is fairly dark and the lights have a yellow hue. For those who have experience, is there an ideal circumstance for testing the ambient light? Or should that feature be bypassed?

I ordered an eye-one online and I'm quite interested in what it will do for me after reading these replies. I'll make sure to let you know if it doesn't beat the profile I spent much of my time working on-- which seems possible since after all it's a CRT.

 

I tried "assign profile" and it does bring in more colors. The strange thing is I can convert those colors to sRGB without noticing a difference, and then assign adobe rgb again and it's as if it will just keep saturating the image. Is assigning the adobe 1998 profile good practice, or is there loss of information? I have a point and shoot panasonic, I believe it delivers images in sRGB.

Telling someone who doesn't print or work among standardized computers that they need a $200 eye-one is presumptuous at best. I own a CRT, you can't be automatically out of the ballpark when you're limited to adjusting gamma, color biases, and brightness/contrast.

 

You say that sRGB isn't a profile, that leads back to my question, what then is the monitor profile I loaded that was called sRGB? Is it just a general profile somehow optimized for that color-space?